Smacked the FASS

[Warpig]

I started my truck this morning and noticed that I had no fp. Turned truck off. I bumped the starter and did not hear my FASS. I checked the fuse and all was well. I then started my truck and smacked my FASS with a block of wood. Hey it usually works when my pc acts up. After the smack the FASS started working again and fp was normal (20psi). Anyone know what might be wrong with this unit?



Thanx,



Tim W.

 

[jrobinson2]

If its an early one its probably brushes stuck in the motor.

 

[steved]

Sounds like the brushes hung up... or are worn out...



steved

 

[Warpig]

It's a little over two years old. This is the first problem I've had with the unit. I did take the brushes out, but I have no idea what to look for. I'll take your advice Steve and Jrob and replace the brushes... ... thanx.



Tim W.

 

[monkeyman]

I posted before, same thing happened to me. Old pumps had brushes that sometimes would get stuck on the armature. I replaced my pump with the new version which is brushless.

Rick

 

[CMNS PWR]

I replaced my pump with the new version which is brushless.

That's not altogether true; still utilizing brushes in the new ones.

 

[JWick]

Who has the new motors for the older systems?

 

[Warpig]

Thanks for the replies everyone. Where can I get replacement brushes? I'm not going to replace the pump because the brushes are worn. Also, does anyone sell updated wire harness. I don't like the fuse location for obvious reasons, but I've not had any issues,and no relay.



Tim W.

 

[JaMan]

Call and talk to Dan at Dpp the can get you replacement brushes. After mine started the sticking it didn't stop and I sent it in and they replaced it with a newer version with the Sealed internal brushes. It has a 4 year warrentee.



Jared

 

[monkeyman]

Oops my mistake! I meant sealed internal brushes, not brushless! I got mine mine from Keith at MCS Diesel in 48 hours! Great Guy: 1-636-938-1118

 

[LowFly]

Keith is a GREAT guy and works VERY close with us... ... . BUT any dealer that carries our stuff can get anything with the right part numbers.



OK... here are some part numbers:



RP-1001 (New Motor and T-Block) 95 GPH... . will work with older units

RP-1002 (" ") 150 GPH..... " "

RP-1001-HPFP HPFP Version (Might need new mounting bracket)

RP-1002-HPFP " "



WH-1002 (Updated Version) Wire harness for 98. 5-04. 5 Cummins

WH-1002 is for the 12V and 05-06 trucks... ...



BU-1001 (Brushes for older motors)

 

[Warpig]

wire harness

Diesel_Dan, what is the difference between the new wire harness and the old one that I have?



Tim W.

 

[steved]

Diesel_Dan, what is the difference between the new wire harness and the old one that I have?



Tim W.

I think the old one was grounded near the pump and this one is grounded to the battery... .





steved

 

[MChildress]

Check your ground.

 

[LowFly]

Actually, the old harnesses didnt have a ground or realy. It grounded through the Computer. The harness ran from the Stock engine harness to the FASS. That was it.



Then we started useing a Relay to isolate the circut. (Around FASS SN# 1858) BUT we didnt use a direct ground yet to the BATT. We just a direct connection to the + terminal on the BATT.



Then a ground was added to the harness which attached to the BATT. ALSO the fuse holder was updated to a better design. (I dont have a SN# brake for that).



Those of you with the harness with the Relay but no ground, its an easy fix. All you have to do is at the relay, pull the green wire out of the loom, and splice in a wire that runs to the NEG post on the BATT. Thats it. This will keep the brushes VERY happy... ... .



Thoes of you that have the older harness (Like me... i know... its been busy here! havent had the time to change it yet!! ), you can build your own relay set up into it... . or just get the harness with the part number listed above.



Its not hard to wire in a relay..... if you choose to go that rout.

 

[Warpig]

My Fass is two years old sn 956. A direct wire with no relay and no separate ground. Is it advisable to upgrade the wire harness? I don't know to much about electronics so I'll ask, what is the benefit using the new wire harness?



Thanx,



Tim W.

 

[LowFly]

We added the Relay to Isolate the circuit and give a direct connection to the BATT. In other words, the power coming from the stock harness now triggers the relay, rather than power the FASS motor. This lowers resistance and gives a good clean circuit to the BATT.



For the ground, we had to keep the ground to the computer attached to the FASS, or a Check Engine Light would pop saying that your LP was INOP or low voltage. Why we added the ground to the BATT, was due to an issue of the ground brushes in the Older motors wearing out due to high resistance on the ground side (Not a good ground through the computer). SO we just spliced in a ground wire that attaches to the BATT to give the FASS motor the best pos. ground. This right here helps out a TON!



I would recommend getting the new harness to make your brushes last as long as they can. This will cause an issue sooner than later. OR build a harness... . can go either way on that.



Your unit left here on 12-23-2003, so there are a few things that can be updated to your FASS.

 

[John]

Diesel Dan, I have a FASS 150 GPH system (serial #2090), that I purchased (from Rip of Source Automotive), and subsequently installed but didn't use yet because my Ram has been laid up for almost two years now. Since then, I was sent the update hardware by DPP (5/8" dia. rubber anti-siphon ball, and replacement brush), which I installed (thank you). I still haven't used my FASS system but would DEFINITELY like to upgrade to the latest version of the FASS pump and T-block (150 GPH model). From what you have posted before in this thread it looks as though I want part #RP-1002.



I won't need the wiring harness as I fabricated my own with the help of a Painless Wiring electric fuel pump kit. I also added a heavy-duty WeatherPack connector between the motor and the project box to expedite FASS system removal. Additionally, I altered my FASS electrical system to incorporate your recommendation of terminating the system ground at the battery. Needless to say, I have a relay to carry the load, a circuit breaker for insurance, and custom 12-gauge wiring to support the system (other than the OE "trigger" wire).



Heck, I even had the installation hardware powder coated "Red Baron" red! And with all that, I fabricated a complete Aeroquip AQP -08 A/N fuel supply/return system from the tank to the VP-44. Needless to say, I went a little hog wild with the braided stainless steel hose and corresponding fittings! In fact, I have about double in Aeroquip components on this upgrade than I do on the FASS system itself! :--)



Anyway, when Rip calls Monday to find out what it will cost for me to update to the new motor I would also like to know what an additional motor would cost as added insurance (i. e. , kept under my back seat... don't ask, it's an old Boy Scout habit).

 

[LowFly]

Diesel Dan, I have a FASS 150 GPH system (serial #2090), that I purchased (from Rip of Source Automotive), and subsequently installed but didn't use yet because my Ram has been laid up for almost two years now. Since then, I was sent the update hardware by DPP (5/8" dia. rubber anti-siphon ball, and replacement brush), which I installed (thank you). I still haven't used my FASS system but would DEFINITELY like to upgrade to the latest version of the FASS pump and T-block (150 GPH model). From what you have posted before in this thread it looks as though I want part #RP-1002.



I won't need the wiring harness as I fabricated my own with the help of a Painless Wiring electric fuel pump kit. I also added a heavy-duty WeatherPack connector between the motor and the project box to expedite FASS system removal. Additionally, I altered my FASS electrical system to incorporate your recommendation of terminating the system ground at the battery. Needless to say, I have a relay to carry the load, a circuit breaker for insurance, and custom 12-gauge wiring to support the system (other than the OE "trigger" wire).



Heck, I even had the installation hardware powder coated "Red Baron" red! And with all that, I fabricated a complete Aeroquip AQP -08 A/N fuel supply/return system from the tank to the VP-44. Needless to say, I went a little hog wild with the braided stainless steel hose and corresponding fittings! In fact, I have about double in Aeroquip components on this upgrade than I do on the FASS system itself! :--)



Anyway, when Rip calls Monday to find out what it will cost for me to update to the new motor I would also like to know what an additional motor would cost as added insurance (i. e. , kept under my back seat... don't ask, it's an old Boy Scout habit).

Yeah... those hose ends and stainless line can add up quick!!!



check out this link if you have not already... ...



Give all the info on our motor update program going on now. As for the spare motor, you can buy an additional RP-1002 to keep if you want.