Smarty. Additional timing or not

[dward]

I'm running my Smarty on level 3 for a 60 HP increase with timing.
Level 2 is 60 HP w/o timing. What does the increased timing do and is it worth it or is there anything to watch out for?

 

[Prairie Dog]

Is that a Jr?

 

[JJPage]

The odd # SW with timing give you the best possible tune for power and mileage, the even # SW without timing are for stacking with additional fueling/pressure boxes that also increase timing. Smarty provided the even SW for the folks who also run other timing enhanced devices, so they would not increase timing beyond safe levels with Smarty.

 

[cerberusiam]

The advanced timing compensates for the late timing event used on the emissions engines. Rather injecting at 12 degrees BTDC it goes to 21 degrees at idle, IIRC. Remember that is dynamic and will advance as needed for rpm and as determined by load and throttle position.

The advanced timing gives better over all engine efficiency as now you are burning as much as possible of the event in the cylinder where it can impart the force to the piston rather than burning as it exits the cylinder. The caveat is now exceeeding 1300 degrees for more than 2 minutes out 5 should be avoided. The more fuel that burns in the cylinder the higher the heat soak in the piston. Heat soak is what melts the piston and causes the issues. Also, the cylinder pressures will go considerably higher with advanced timing. Under high load conditions this tends to be harder on the rings than stock timing. TM 2 is for running empty and best efficiency, you should back that down towing or be much more cognizant of EGT's and load.

 

[Prairie Dog]

Cerb, Thats a great explanation - thanks.
Does this mean I should tow only with #2 rather than using the Catcher 3 sw on my Jr?

Thx.
Scott

 

[dward]

Thanks for the great info. Well done Cerb.
Level 3 seems to work well for my application, but I do have to watch the egts as 1300 can come up quickly.
I just changed back from level 5, as 3 just seems to be better for temps and drivability.
No it's not the JR.

 

[cerberusiam]

Really depends on the temps and weight. If the temps will stay in control then you can run that power level. If they are hovering in the danger zone or exceeeding them all the time then you need more air or less fuel.

I use SW3 for heavy loads and can use SW5 for lighter loads with attention paid to temps and how I use the throttle. The 60 HP tune with timing seems to work real well across the board. Temps stay at or under 1000 degress for the most part and have gotten up to 12 mpg grossing 22-23k in good conditions.

All a matter of weight, conditions, and how you can drive it.

 

[Prairie Dog]

Great thanks Cerb. My temps stay well under the danger point and only get close when I'm climbing a pass. Even then I keep it under 1100~1200 the whole time.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

I used odd # softwares, and also went into the upper level menu to pick the timing curve when solo or towing.

 

[Jim W]

I am also using a Smarty S67 on Catcher level 3, 23ME; all of my parameters are all set to 0 except for Torque management which is set at 2. I installed the original Smarty software at 21,600 miles as I now have 70,000 miles on the truck with no issues; oil samples are taken every other oil change. This is to see if I have accelerated wear or any debris in the engine oil, none so far.

I installed my Smarty in Aug of 09 and up dated in Nov 10 to the 23ME, I do all of my driving on level 3 both towing and non-towing. I have towed out west in the Rockies and back east in the Smokey Mountains with my truck pulling an 11.5K GVW 5er. I do have gages and I watch the EGT’s and Boost along with the transmission temps. My maximum egt’s have been 1200 in six gear I will shift out of 6th gear going to 5th when they are at that temp this will raise the boost to 26 or 29 psi but lower the EGT’s to 900 hundred or so. The engine rpm will be about 1800 to 1900 hundred in 5th as I go up the 6 to 7% grades.

I feel that the odd levels are ok to tow in as when I read the Smarty instructions and advertizing that the even numbers where for users to add additional timing boxes or stacking with a MP8-tuner.

Just my $0.02

Jim W.

 

[cerberusiam]

Great thanks Cerb. My temps stay well under the danger point and only get close when I'm climbing a pass. Even then I keep it under 1100~1200 the whole time.

On a re-entrant piston you have more wiggle room as it will take more heat before caving in. You should be able to run all day at 1200 degrees given everything else is working good, especially the HO engines. I would be leery on that if it was an SO. SO's don't have gallery cooling and are a little more susceptible to heat soak.

The non re-entrant pistons are a little different. Shallower bowl will spike pressures faster and the meat of the crown over the gallery cooling is a little thinner. More consideration for temps and timing needs to be taken on an 04.5+ plus engine.

 

[Shadrach]

I use # 3 on my 03 when towing my 28' TT thru the mountains. It give me that extra umph. I didn't have it on with my 9'9" camper when I went to Columbus back in June but there wern't many hills. David

 

[Prairie Dog]

On a re-entrant piston you have more wiggle room as it will take more heat before caving in. You should be able to run all day at 1200 degrees given everything else is working good, especially the HO engines. I would be leery on that if it was an SO. SO's don't have gallery cooling and are a little more susceptible to heat soak.

The non re-entrant pistons are a little different. Shallower bowl will spike pressures faster and the meat of the crown over the gallery cooling is a little thinner. More consideration for temps and timing needs to be taken on an 04.5+ plus engine.

Well you almost lost me on the piston thing (had to Google re-entrant piston LOL) but I get the idea. Yet another reason the 305 HO Rocks!