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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Smarty and auto conversation thread.

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I still hope that marco can find his way towards this discussion. Hopefully he has some fixes that won't require me buying a seperate component. I am just trying to keep things simple.



If he can't do it, then I may have to explore one of these fixes or put the Smarty into antitheft duty only.



Dave
 
SP installed mine while I watched :-laf Basically, they fab up harnesses and test different connections. So while my stuff might be slightly "homeade', the retail stuff has high quality connectors and harnesses.



I think it wouldn't be terribly hard to install though, as with their other products, they send along thorough directions.



Does anyone have a ballpark idea on what one of these types of controllers cost?



Sounds vewy interesting... ... ... ... ..... :-laf
 
Dave, There was a schematic that showed how to bypass the signal around the ECM to the PCM on one of the transmission sites. I can't find it now but I think there may be a way to use this for an upgrade.
If the signal was intercepted from the APPS and run thru a voltage converter, AGM, Phenoix or Weidmuiller, say 0-5 vdc to 0-10 vdc. This signal would then give a greater APPS voltage to the PCM for shift ranges. The Smarty would see the same signal but the PCM would see a different value. The converters are only a c-note or so. If you like I could get the part #s and post them for you. Mike

I have a hard copy of the workaround (called 4th gear hunt fix) off the ATS web site (I can't find it there anymore either) so if anyone still wants that info I'd post it somehow. It's an easy two step procedure that solved my lock/unlock. Don't know if it would do anything for the smarty problem you're dealing with.
Chuck
 
0 to 5 to the PCM from the APPS. But, you won't ever see zero. The factory setting is usually around . 5V for idle and I think around 3. 9V for WOT. Everything else is just an overrun. So, I would guess the input to the APPS would be 5V?



Dave
 
Dave,

I'll be back at the shop on Monday and see what I have. The unit I'm thinking of is a 0-5VDC to current. I just want to send the right resistor too. I'll get your mailing info when I get back thru PM and send instructions on the calibration data for changing output.

Did you look at the link or rotors pic for the schematic?
 
An update of sorts - I've been running STOCK (yikes) for a week to set a baseline for myself again on the transmission - no issues whatsoever. Bought a Drag Comp today from Rip (had them install it/solder the pump wire), drove home, playing with the settings. On every setting, from 5x5 down to 1x1 and everything in between, the transmission acts 'normal', as it did with the EZ I used to have pre-Smarty. And obviously, on 5x5 it flat out gets it. Flat spot is also gone by the way... ... ... ... ... that '1200 rpm' lugging that was dead with Smarty is back to pulling with the Comp.



So my plan is to keep playing with the Comp settings, getting used to the many options (dang I am so stoked to be able to go from 'mild mannered driver' to 'kill' at the push of a button... ... ... ... ... ... ) and see how a few days of driving without any Smarty software does. THEN I'm going to load Smarty and start on the very low EVEN settings (probably 2 to start) and see what happens... ... ... ... ... .



More to come on my DOE (design of experiments for you engineer geeks out there)... ... ... ... . :D
 
I ran a test today with and without the Smarty.



I headed down to the river by way of my dad's house. So, there was street level stuff from 25mph though 45 mph and then the hiway stuff of 50 mph through 70 mph.





On the way down, I ran the Smarty in it's usual configuration on level 3, TST set to level zero.



There was a tendency for the trans to hunt around 28-32 mph. It got annoying, but in the area I was in I had to drive the speed of the sleepyheads in front of me. After a while of this, I found that pulling the lever into 2nd, the hunting stopped. This was the only way it would cease and I could repeat the hunt at will. Lockup still came in pretty late in the town driving, but was better than unloaded as I had the boat out back. Freeway travel was fine except for the double "bump" going into OD and locking up. It felt like it was doing both at once or trying to hit 2 gears at once. It's always done it with the Catcher program, but it's still wierd. To compensate, I lift the throttle completely, hit the OD button and roll in easy. OD lock up. there was minimal surge with the cruise.





For the return trip, I ran a loaner EZ and no Smarty. Been a while since I had an Edge product in the truck. Everything worked fine. Trans shifted normally and the hunting was gone. Also, I hit lockup much sooner in drive. I would most likely have to re-adjust my APPS to the correct setting if I were to run that box everday. The EZ had way more timing noise than the Smarty. Power felt about the same. But, there was no power drop going into OD as with the Smarty. Also, the double "bump" thing going into OD was gone. No surge with cruise.



My guesses as to what are going on relate completely to throttle position. The more it has at a given fueling level, the better. Some of the guys on the TDR have had some great ideas. One of which would be a voltage modifier. I have no idea what the correct technical term is, but the way I understand it, we could fool the PCM into seeing a higher voltage than is really there, bringing lockup in earlier with the Smarty. If that works, I would actually be able to use a Catcher level. I am not sure if this will help with the cruise surge or not.



I don't know how that plays out for pressures in the trans at all. And that'll all have to be checked. But may be a work around for some of us.



Dave
 
I did some more running around with the EZ today. I set the jumper from least aggressive to the middle. Much better spool, but with some low end smoke as I get lockup on time now. Not nearly as much smoke as the Smarty.



Acceration is better throught the rpm range.



Dave
 
Issues

Hello All,



I just thought I would muddy up the waters a little. I am experiencing similar problems and I don't even own a smarty. I have a built transmission as well. The answers I have recieved so far, relate to throttle position. With the horsepower being generated etc. , etc... ... I thought I would have much better performance for the $8K investment
 
exactly the problem has been duplicaed with other add on power devices. We duplicated it with a superchip on a customers truck.



Even at the lower levels on the superchip the same shift pattern occured.



Marco is looking at the software at this time .



Thanks
 
Dave,

I'll be back at the shop on Monday and see what I have. The unit I'm thinking of is a 0-5VDC to current. I just want to send the right resistor too. I'll get your mailing info when I get back thru PM and send instructions on the calibration data for changing output.

Did you look at the link or rotors pic for the schematic?



This little gozmo works trick!



You can make the PCm lock at any throttle position that is off the idle switches. I can literally get lockup at 15mph!



AS the new software keeps getting refined, I am hoping a device like this won't be necessary. But if it is, I wanna go into business with you selling it as a fix to go with programmers! :-laf



Thanks again. It really allowed me to tweak the testing to a whole new level. The downside is, unlock does not happen as fast as it used to. This is due to a higher voltage vs speed ratio I think.



Oh well, if I can stay in one place for more than a day, I will continue to keep testing.



Dave
 
Dave,

Just remember that as you change the span, the zero tracks it. In other words if you change one the other will change a small amount. The delta Vdc is not linear so it should be easy to get your zero again.

Any questions, just ask. Mike
 
Well guys,



no responses from anyone on this one. Bob Wagner said Marco did not get my e-mails and requested I send them to him. I did then forward the e-mails and Bob said he got them on a NWBombers thread. It's been a few weeks and nothing. :confused:



Just wanted to update those that have requested more info.



Dave
 
A sign of some hope here. This was posted on the NWBombers today by Bob W.



"Marco has been working on other projects and there is nothing that I can do to change that.



Marco's plan is to start coming to the states every other month to deal with issues like this one on one.



Its hard for Marco to come up with a fix without seeing the issue at hand .



sorry thats all I can do for now"



and



"there is really no other way around it. Marco is working on getting the 6. 7L euro 4 emission standards met



we have a new product to release next week and and and and and



This is will be resolved"







So, take it for what you will, but sounds like some first hand diagnostics may be in order!!



Dave
 
Thanks for passing that on Fishin. .

Will take that as good news. I have always been satisfied dealing with BW and will continue to purchase from him. It is kind of a bummer that he seems to have to be the spokesperson for Madselectronics, but he is trying to do the right things here.

This reminds me of when the owner of FASS wouldnt give customers the time of day and really took a hit until he brought in Dan to work the issues. Without Dan, I would have refused to deal with them again no matter what the quality was. Dan fixed all that. . In the mean time I'll be a loyal customer of BW since he is a straight up guy.

Still, am really happy with the new addition of the "Stocky" and will be sticking with it for the time being... Great product, and support for it is right up the street. :rolleyes:
 
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