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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Smarty and Dyno Runs

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Is The BHAF Worth It?

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Just Got Smart(y)

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Was wondering if anyone has dyno ran a smarty yet to see what are the gains? Sounds like it is a very nice program... . I am interested in what the numbers are versus stock.



My truck is stock..... but if I do upgrade this sounds like the one to use. :-laf



Thanks,

Thad (Ohio)
 
The Smarty and an adjustable boost elbow (to keep the stock turbo under ~35psi) will do wonders for the truck.

I have too many mods to notice the Smarty on the dyno (Catcher ECM didn't add any power, just improved the drivability immensely). Just for reference, my truck dyno'd 215hp ~450lbs torque in stock trim. I borrowed an Edge EZ the same day, and with no boost elbow to allow anything over 20psi I dyno'd 245hp ~600lbs torque. The rest of the weekend using the EZ was enough for me to start plotting my first round of BOMBs!
 
The Smarty will add some Hp, from what I can recall it is about 60 Hp or so. Many people have compared it to an EZ. That would be for a stock vs Smarty with no other mod's.



Jim
 
I have seen in some other threads that the Smarty works well with a "boost Elbow". Does the Smarty cause the turbo to produce too much PSI? My stock truck produces about 23. 5 psi. Where is ideal turbo psi with a smarty? Is there a "dangerous" level where the turbo could be damage with psi? How much psi does a smarty increase?



Thad (Tyring to learn this Bombing game) :-laf
 
DixonL said:
I have seen in some other threads that the Smarty works well with a "boost Elbow". Does the Smarty cause the turbo to produce too much PSI? My stock truck produces about 23. 5 psi. Where is ideal turbo psi with a smarty? Is there a "dangerous" level where the turbo could be damage with psi? How much psi does a smarty increase



It is all new to me also, having fun learning. :)



Since you are talking about a boost elbow, I am assuming you have a truck with a manual transmission. Consider 35 psi the max boost you should run.



I put on an adjustable boost elbow right after I started using the Smarty. Stock, my boost would peak at 23 psi. With the Smarty SW it would peak at 25 psi. After I installed the adjustable boost elbow, I experiented some with boost pressure and settled on 30 psi after learning how to read a turbo compressor map. Some folks will say that 35 psi is maxing out a HX35, I just decided to limit my turbo RPM's to a safer margin so I have set my waste gate to open 28-30 psi boost.



At my current power level, raising the boost pressure past 25 psi made zero difference in my maximum EGT. I have not measured maximum Hp, but at this stage in my bomb build I am more concerned about maximum EGT.



Trucks with automatic transmissions come with a HY35 turbo. You can't run a boost elbow, but have to install a J-Hook (I believe). I am not as familiar with the HY35. So a can't say the maximum boost pressure that should be run or how waste gate setting pressure setting should be managed. I am going to say that more than likely the HY35 will be taching a higher RPM for the same boost pressure, as compared to a HX35.



Jim
 
If you want to delve into this farther, I have some, but I am far from an expert. You have to understand that a turbo (turbine - compressor) really is a device that based is upon efficientcy. Essentially, the turbo has a sweet spot the that the OEM utilizes. This is where the OEM will set the waste gate at and initiate de-fueling based on high boost pressure.



When the modding starts, you move out of this sweet spot. However, more air plus more fuel equals more power. :)



I feel that you should be concerned mostly with two things. First, when the turbo makes higher boost pressure it is at the expense of a higher boost air temperature. This equates literally to higher EGT's. Second, when the turbo makes higher boost it is a result of higher RPM's.



When talking turbo RPM, understand (my charts are at home so this is for example only) that lets say the turbo runs at 75,000 RPM to make 20 psi, it runs at 160,000 RPM to make 35 psi. What I am trying to illustrate is that the RPM increase vs boost increase is not linear, this is because the efficientcy drops.



Just keep in mind that the information above, is like the iceberg that the Titannic struck. It is only a very small amount showing, but in my opinion, the part you can do something to avoid.



If you increase bombing, eventually you will hit another boost limit. Once again, consider it to be just the tip of the iceberg. Most will say 50 psi of boost, others will say 500 Hp. At any rate, at some piont the head gasket will not hold the combustion pressure the engine is generating. This is when people start talking about modifying the head, head bolts and the head gasket to hold the increased pressure.



Jim
 
I guess I should have started with my goals if/when I bomb



300-325hp

600 tq

no black smoke

good fuel economy (I usually drive with a light foot)

duribilty-very important. I want this thing to last a long time.

safe EGT's

towablity - I have an 18' Big Tex Gooseneck that I usually am hauling in the 4K-8K weight range.



I figured a Smarty would allow me to meet those goals since I only need 55hp and 95tq to be where in the target range. I also like the fact you can go to stock any time you want to for warrenty reasons.



Will a Smarty cause my boost psi to increase past my stock 23 psi? If it does... how much? If the smarty does increase my psi... that is why I thought the boost elbow would help. I figure 26-27 is the max psi I would like to run.



You guys are big help!! I am so glad I joined this TDR site. . lots of info. Now if I could just get them to send me my darn backorder of older subscriptions (it has been over 2 months now) I would be golden!!



Thad (Ohio... but in FL for vacation)
 
DixonL said:
300-325hp

600 tq

no black smoke

good fuel economy (I usually drive with a light foot)

duribilty-very important. I want this thing to last a long time.

safe EGT's

towablity - I have an 18' Big Tex Gooseneck that I usually am hauling in the 4K-8K weight range.





I'm going to take a shot here and say the Smarty will likely fill all of your needs. You will see more smoke though, but nothing excessive. For me it happens if a lug the engine below the idle governer RPM and when the engine is still cold and I get in it.



I am selling this on E-Bay and the power is very comparable to the Smarty. Absolutely no smoke and a high EGT de-fueling protection feature. My EGT's never went above 1150F at 21 psi boost. Its a much cheaper option if you are interested.



However, side by side the Smarty is simply more, shall I say "Full Bodied". It is also much harder to trace by the dealer when you have warranttee issues.



Jim
 
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DixonL said:
Will a Smarty cause my boost psi to increase past my stock 23 psi? If it does... how much? If the smarty does increase my psi... that is why I thought the boost elbow would help. I figure 26-27 is the max psi I would like to run.



You have to realize that the Smarty has absolutely zero high boost de-fueling and really cares less about over boosting.



A stock set-up has two methods to control boost. The stock waste gate is likely pre-set to open at 25 psi. The stock ECM software likely de-fuels at 21-23 psi boost. At some higher pressure the stock ECM software will set a "High Boost" code, warning the driver and advising the mechanic of possible over boost condtions. A good fail safe system.



To control boost with a Smarty, at a higher than stock setting, you need to install a different boost elbow to restrict the air pressure to the waste gate actuator so that it opens at a higher pressure. The best IMO is an adjustable boost elbow. However, if you want to run at only 26-27 psi boost I would not bother with the boost elbow. At all at least give it a try before you buy one. The non-stock elbow just leaves a small little clue to the dealer if they are at all savvy.



Jim
 
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Thad,

To answer some of your questions. I have an '01 HO 6spd relatively stock. I do have the requisite guages, AFE stage 1 intake, and my exhaust is straight piped (still factory diameter, just removed the muffler) and the Smarty. I've been running the Smarty now for about 6k miles and cannot tell you how happy and impressed I am with this thing. No one has ever claimed huge HP gains with a Smarty. I dynoed 04-30-06. I did not dyno on the stock set-up, but if I remember correctly, this truck puts out 245 HP, I don't know the stock TQ. On the dyno with the Smarty on SW#9, the HP was 255 and TQ was 648. The numbers are somewhat deceiving though as the driveability of the truck is awesome. When I first put it in my truck, I was almost sure someone had swapped trucks with me it was that improved. Must remember to be cautious and light footed on wet roads in ANY gear. The first time your 7000# truck goes around in a circle it will get your attention. I'm pretty sure if you get in touch with Bob Wagner of Wagner and Associates, he is a member here, he has some demo units that he sends out so you can try it before you buy it. You won't believe how much it will wake your truck up. Probably wants to make sure you have $650 to spare because I think that after you drive it you will be ordering one. As far as mileage goes, I have been on a few trips. One all state roads and back roads, no interstate and I got 20. 4 mpg hand calculated. Then I went on an all interstate trip and got 19. 6 mpg hand calculated. The first trip was right after install and I was playing around quite a bit and still got great mileage. The 2nd trip was down to RI and around Boston MA where traffic was moving at 80-85 mph and I had my CC set for 80 and still got 19. 6. All of this driving was on SW#9 (I don't think there really is any other number). Hope this helps. And yes, Bob sent me a boost elbow and said to leave it set the way it was until more mods done and I get about 28-30 lbs of boost.

Bill
 
BSmalley said:
Thad,

To answer some of your questions. I have an '01 HO 6spd relatively stock. I do have the requisite guages, AFE stage 1 intake, and my exhaust is straight piped (still factory diameter, just removed the muffler) and the Smarty. I've been running the Smarty now for about 6k miles and cannot tell you how happy and impressed I am with this thing. No one has ever claimed huge HP gains with a Smarty. I dynoed 04-30-06. I did not dyno on the stock set-up, but if I remember correctly, this truck puts out 245 HP, I don't know the stock TQ. On the dyno with the Smarty on SW#9, the HP was 255 and TQ was 648.

Bill



I *believe* stock numbers of 245/640 are flywheel, are they not? So if your dyno numbers are rear wheel, that's a pretty good bump... ... ... ... .
 
I have run the Smarty on the Dyno but not on a stock truck. I would say that it would be about a 75HP gain. It is definately the way to go! :) Stock numbers on the H. O. are 245 H. P. /505 TQ. Which is around 220 H. P. at the rear wheel. H. O. trucks also respond very well to injectors. I ran a EZ for a couple of years and the Smarty Rules! I cannot say enough good things about it! Check out my Reader's Rigs for Dyno Chart.
 
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