Here I am

Smarty on a stock truck

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Can somebody tell me alittle more about my rail pressure #'s???

Dual CP3's anyone??

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Keep in mind guys that adding timeing and thus lowering egt also raises cylinder temps, as you advance timeing more heat/energy is staying in the enigine. So 1300deg with advanced timeing is not the same as 1300deg with stock timeing. Don't add ANY power without guages.



That said the Smarty is the only downloader that should be up for consideration. No one else is offering so many different user installable programs, hell no one else offers ANY user installable programs. Add to this the fact that, as of now, the Smarty is undetectable and it is a slam dunk for Smarty.
 
I would think you'd be ok on level 1, but if you were towing on a long grade (grapevine in SoCal for instance), wouldnt recommend it with out guages..... and an egt guage is pretty cheap!
 
I made gauges my first mod. Knowing your truck before adding power seemed the only way to get things right. I added a Quad STD first, now that I am familiar with it, the Smarty will be installed. Best of both worlds when you stack something with the Smarty. You can use the Smarty on a lower setting ALL the time, when you need more you can flip on the box. My EGT's changed with the Quad. I expect to see the Smarty do something similar. Gauges ARE pretty cheap insurance considering that $400 buys good peace of mind for protecting $40K.



CD
 
Is the Smarty's "stock" program just the latest DCX stock program or has it been tweaked?



It would be nice not to have to rely on the dealer for idle up and tire diameter changes!



Is the Smarty a handful when driving on snowy or icy roads?
 
I am really considering the PPE over the smarty because you can raise the rev limiter to 3700 RPM. this should help alot with drag racing and sled pulling my truck. My problem with the stock rpm range is when I get to 2500 rpm I feel the trucks power starts to fall off I believe this is cuz the computer wants to keep the rpms under controll so I don't go over 3 grand. In order to keep the rpms in check and make it user friendly (smooth transition so the cust doesn't take it to the dealer thinking a problem) I believe Dalmer chrysler slowly starts to limit power levels around 2500 for protection from going to redline too quick. For drag racing and sled pulling RPMs must be up to get those HP numbers and use RPMs to pull the truck to the win. PPE is a must for me on top of my Banks with speed loader.
 
Also before adding any power you must increase the exhaust flow to protect from high egt issues. I would definitely reccomend at the bare minimum a straight pipe. I got bored at work and pulled my truck in and straight piped my truck took like 20 minutes and the boss said it would be worth like $100 for the job including pipe if it were a paying customer. I made everything my self with very simply basic fabrication any exhaust shop that can swell 4" pipe and do this just make sure they do quality work before turning over the keys
 
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