Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Smoke Screw?

[Fordiesel69]

I cannot for the life of me find the post I read that showed how to adjust the smoke screw. The post stated if you have slow accelration or excess smoke until turbo spins up, this screw needs adjusted.



My truck is a dog for about 3-4 seconds after you nail it, there is no smoke and no power until you can hear the turbo spool.

 

[bmoeller]

#ad


Remove the round plug on the top of the AFC housing. 8mm allen wrench IIRC. Don't loose the thin sealing washer. May need a hammer to tap n the end of the wrench. It can be very tight. Mine was.

Use a screwdriver to turn the star wheel TOWARDS the engine. Try 10 clicks and test drive.

 

[tp0d]

I used a set of channelocks to open my starwheel cover, worked well. If the black paint isnt broken, it probably will be quite tight, as stated above.

good luck

-j

 

[Fordiesel69]

I am not sure which one it is, I labled your photo. Is it #1 or #2? Just to clarify, do I turn the star wheel clockwise or counter clockwise?

 

[Fordiesel69]

Nevermind I found which one it was. However I tried 11 clicks, took it for a drive no real difference, I did another 11 and maybe it seems a little more responsive but still no smoke. How much farther do I dare go with it?

 

[Desperado]

Fill out your sig line, so we know what you have in your rig. Do you have gauges? What is your boost like? How hi will the pyro go? If you have a stock turbo it should only to to 21# boost with stock fueling, the star wheel will put more fuel out under lower boost numbers, now if you pull the AFC housing off and slide the fuel plate forward you will get more power, I would only do this if you have a pyro at the least.

 

[Fordiesel69]

Fill out your sig line, so we know what you have in your rig. Do you have gauges? What is your boost like? How hi will the pyro go? If you have a stock turbo it should only to to 21# boost with stock fueling, the star wheel will put more fuel out under lower boost numbers, now if you pull the AFC housing off and slide the fuel plate forward you will get more power, I would only do this if you have a pyro at the least.

I am not sure why the sig is not appearing on some posts. Anyway it is stock for now, I tried 22 clicks total and it still does not whisp smoke or feel all that great if I nail it. It still lags greatly for 3-4 sec. How many click can I go without hurting the pump or engine?



When I remove the AFC housing, do I move the plate forward to the front of the truck? Also can it be off level, I see there are 2 screws to loosen, do I slide it full forward, and how can I verify I have it straight before I tighten it up?

 

[Desperado]

"95' Ram 2500 CTD, Laramie SLT, Extended Cab, Auto , 4x4, 3. 54's, 8'bed, all stock for now, etc... ... "



You will want to put some gauge in, pyro, boost, and trans temp. When you start playing with power you will also have to upgrade the transmission (IT WILL NOT LIVE LONG) a stock auto transmission is short for the world as it is, with many miles on it. Now with that said, move the plate to the front, but not all of the way (see transmission up grade)you can eyeball it to make it even, you may even want to do this a few times (a bit at a time) till it feels the way you like it, I would also check for boost leaks, the rubber they use for stock boost boots is not the best and may have some pin holes in them, Here is some good reading for you TST = More Power this is the way you set the idle up Ram Diesel Problems Look around this site http://dodgeram.org/and you will get some idea of what you can do, also do a search in the fourm to get more info.

 

[bmoeller]

I'd look to see if the boost line going to the AFC housing is pinched or cut. Not enough boost to the AFC will limit your fuel. The diaphram could have a hole in it as well.

Did you turn the top of the screw TOWARDS the engine like I posted above? Away puts MORE tension on the spring. You want LESS tension for more fuel at low boost.

 

[Fordiesel69]

I'd look to see if the boost line going to the AFC housing is pinched or cut. Not enough boost to the AFC will limit your fuel. The diaphram could have a hole in it as well.



Did you turn the top of the screw TOWARDS the engine like I posted above? Away puts MORE tension on the spring. You want LESS tension for more fuel at low boost.

I will look at the hose. Yes I did run the wheel toward the engine and it did make a microscopic difference. I was just curious how far you can go with the star wheel. On my stanadyne pumps used on the ford diesels you can only tighten the fuel screw so much before it will rub inside the pump and it will self destruct. I was curoius if you can go to far with the star wheel.

 

[JAmos]

You can turn the star wheel all the way and then if its too smokey for you then back it off in small increments till you're at a happy medium. My star wheel is cranked all the way and I control the smoke with my right foot. When I want smoke, mash the pedal. Otherwise its easy to have a good acceleration with minimal smoke.



Jordan

 

[CToney]

I found that on my truck that I had to slide the afc housing ahead ~1/8" and then fine tune with the star wheel. I did this when I swapped out the plate. I could toss my old 215 plate (which you could grind your own profile) in with some injectors if you like.



CR Toney

 

[bmoeller]

My starwheel is as far forward as it can go, and still touch it with a screwdriver. Some have removed the wheel and spring all together.

As mentioned, you can slide the AFC housing forward. Have to do it when you slide the plate anyhow. Won't feel anymore power if you don't.