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Snatch strap/Recovery straps

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Camera In bed for hooking up goos neck trailers

Car tie-down in Trailer

A 6" strap will hold a road grader.....


Nick

Maybe, maybe not if it is stuck and the strap you are working with has a 16k lb load rating like the ones in the link you posted.

The one rynosback posted seems like plenty of strap but I just wanted to be sure he realizes it's not actually rated for the 60k lbs like it is advertised for.
 
But the working load is only 16k. I glanced at that one and many other. Trying to find something that is weight rated for my set up and do the job if it is ever called upon.
 
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It's going to be hard finding a strap rated for more than the 30k SWL you need. Relying on the published breaking strength of a strap is walking a fine line, especially if there's any tugging involved which there almost certainly will be unless the off chance you can actually find someone heavier than you to pull on you. And this is where a true kinetic rope like a bubba rope really shines.

The Buba ropes look awesome. But to spend hundreds for something that I may never use just seems like a waste. I do not go off roading. My tires would never be sunken into the ground. I would just be on wet grass.
 
Maybe, maybe not if it is stuck and the strap you are working with has a 16k lb load rating like the ones in the link you posted.

The one rynosback posted seems like plenty of strap but I just wanted to be sure he realizes it's not actually rated for the 60k lbs like it is advertised for.

Yes, it is the break strength. I have a call out to them to find out what the material is.

thanks for all the comments.
 
Just keep in mind......if you are pulling out a truck and trailer that weighs 20k (or whatever) combined, the strap is not actually subjected to 20k lbs, it would be much less than that, but it all depends on the incline (if any) or if one is stuck deep in something.
 
But the working load is only 16k. I glanced at that one and many other. Trying to find something that is weight rated for my set up and do the job if it is ever called upon.

But the breaking factor is about 4-1, trust me, 60,000 lbs breaking strength will rip your 5th wheel hitch right off your pickup, not to mention your little 10k rated tow hooks. Get a 12", it has a working load limit of 32,000 lbs, that should do the trick.

Like kthaxton said, your truck and rv is a rolling load unless it is sunk up to all 4 axles, but wet grass is nothing that a good 2" strap won't pull you out of.

Nick
 
Curious to know if doubling the strap back on itself increases the work load? In the fire service, whenever we double our webbing or rescue ropes, it increases the work load. Not sure if yank straps work the same way?? Would be interesting to find out.
 
Curious to know if doubling the strap back on itself increases the work load? In the fire service, whenever we double our webbing or rescue ropes, it increases the work load. Not sure if yank straps work the same way?? Would be interesting to find out.

A recovery strap like we are talking about doubles in capacity when used in a basket compared to a straight pull, as long as you are doubling the strap over a sufficient diameter.

Nick brings about the obvious that 30k rolling weight is not the same as 30k suspended weight in lifting or the effective weight of pulling out a stuck vehicle. I used my 600 lb ATV to pull my 8k lb truck 2 miles down the road when my lift pump quit on me a few years back. Put that same truck in the bog up to the axles and the ATV won't even think about budging it. Pretty simple physics eh? Lots of variables when dealing with a stuck vehicle. Rule of thumb in stuck vehicles is 1:1 ratio when you are stuck up to your hubs. So a truck that weighs 10k lbs stuck up to its hubs requires 10k lbs of pulling force. There is some wiggle room in both directions there based on grade, soil type and tire height but it is a pretty solid guesstimate. So yes, if you can guarantee your level of "stuckness" than you can get away with alot less strap than the actual weight of your truck. Around here it's hard to be that lucky. I've driven through fields in a 20k lb tractor and barely left an imprint, a few days later gone through in the farm truck and buried it up to the doors (after I gave up, after refusing to give up :D). So i imagine as much depends on the lay as the land as anything.
All goes back to the variables. There's hardly a one size fits all approach.
 
(after I gave up, after refusing to give up :D).

True story, I never walk until I have to:-laf

Like JR said, doubling the strap will double the capacity, however now you will loose the effectiveness of the stretch that's built in to the strap and how/why they work. In fact, a 6" strap is probably too heavy duty for a pickup sized recovery vehicle to stretch it enough to maximize the effect of the design. If the recovery vehicle is small or the traction is limited such as mud or ice, the stretch of the strap is what makes them work, so you can't use one that is over capacity.

Nick
 
If your only looking for a strap to pull you down the road, it will not cost much. If someday you might need a little "yank" to get you out of a situation, then I suggest a recovery strap or rope. As for the cost, as they say you get what you pay for, like insurance, we pay a lot of money for it and hope we never need it. But if you need it, you want it to do the job.
 
I use JM Rigging Supply for my winch and recovery product needs. I have winch rope, recovery straps, tree savers, and soft shackles from them.
He publishes destructive testing numbers and even has videos of the tests. All US made and owned by a small biz guy who has been in the lifting and rigging industry for years (Jim MarkhaM is the JM of the company name). Add to it he's just a good guy who cares and gives great customer service.
http://www.jmrigging.com/towing.html
Note: I am just another customer; no other affiliation, sponsorship, or other type relationship, even though I am involved in off road motorsports.
 
I would not use the front tow hooks period on the 2013 and later trucks for pulling on anything with significant force.
 
I would not use the front tow hooks period on the 2013 and later trucks for pulling on anything with significant force.

Amen to that. Saw a recent picture from Glamis where a CC long bed with toy hauler trailer got in a bit of soft sand. Strapped to the front hooks and snap went the cast iron.
Mind you, this was flat ground and the mire factor wouldn't have been much as it wasn't dug in bad at all
 
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