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So How about switches?

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good price on Banks techni-cooler???

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Thanks for the compliment BlueRam I tend to do a lot of things that many are unwilling to do simply because I am not afraid :eek: seriosuly though there have been many on here who have done the overhead console it is a nice and convient location, but beware take your time and understand that there is some modifications to made to make what I did work and those modifications take some time and planning...



JCrockett that looks good, but I have the heated seats so I can only do 2, I am going to install 2 additional heated seat switches for future upgrades when I can figure out how to make them work...



BlueRam2500 said:
I never thought of installing switches in that overhead console. Thats a great idea! I am debating on adding some additional lighting to my truck such as a mini strobe light bar and some strobes in the tailights for when I plow with my truck. Your setup is great.
 
No 4wd knob and no holes. I am going to also run the carling switchs. I will have the following

Air compressor

driving lights

beam lights

inverter

and an extra one

will run a harness out to a relay assembly and switch everything from there
 
i know there are several companies on here that are selling blank outs, but I do not know why you could not just use a piece of sheet metal or plastic as all of the attachments to the center stack are screwed into it from behind... Wasn't quadzilla making one also?
 
MCrossley,

and by the way the Blue LED is out of center for a reason, I have it so it is centered over the center seat console (just before someone notices)



Did you do this to provide light for the area in front of the center seat? If so, how does it work? Is the LED give off enough light to see the cupholders?
 
dam post keep not showing up!

Anyhow the blue LED is centered over the lid on the center console and provides a lot of non disturbing light, as far as brightness I ended up chanign the resister to a 1k instead of the 520 ohm it was way too bright! I will take pictures tonight and post them so you can see what it is like. I used a narrow beam LED so that it would give a nice formal round circle on the lid. As far as the cup holder lamp that was modified also, the crappy green led that was there was pathetic so I pumped up the power and put a soft white LED in its place lots of light now!



As many of you are probably figuring out I like to tinker... .
 
i know what ya mean there...



im currious about how you wired in the trafic controller... dod you buy one out of a factory box or did you re wire the box yoru way?

Grant
 
here is the pic of night time illumination

Spooled-up said:
Did you do this to provide light for the area in front of the center seat? If so, how does it work? Is the LED give off enough light to see the cupholders?



this shows the center console lid and the cup holders these are both LED's
 
ROCKJEEP -- There is a guy here on the TDR named Eric that has a filler plate that fits the cubby hole. I think it's about ten dollars. Here is what I did with it:



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The overhead is easy for the 3rd gens ( was even easier in the 2nd's) you take a small flat screwdriver and pop off the map light lenses and you will find a scre under each lens, remove the screws (torx) and then it just unsnaps from the roof up on the windsgiels side. Just take your time it is easy to do...
 
PATRIOT_Ram: I like that but I use the cubby hole. I put my cell, chew container, etc. etc. in the cubby hole so I don’t want to lose the storage.



MCrossley: Thank god I didnt try to pull it off Like in my old car. In my old car the overhead is connected by clamps and you have to pull on it. 99% of the time you brake the clamps. Sucks. Thank You.
 
im going to have to make a trip to radio crap soon and buy some switches and relays for some back up lights. i need to find a good electronics supply place around here. i wish the aircraft switches would work with the low volts and amps we have on our trucks... . then stuff would be free.....

grant
 
Other than the indicators being rated for 24vdc why would a regular aircraft switch not work on your truck? Something I do not know I am sure...
 
they have to high a resistance. they are all high amp switches lowest being 35 watts. highest being rated for 100+ wats. the ones that are for 35 watts could be used i guess but are UGLY as all sin and bulky as all hello. they are all for 28 or 40VDC and some 120VAC as well.



its mroe of a preferance i guess. they are usable, but i dont want to use the ones i can.
 
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