Must be the week of losing posts.
HH summed up what I was trying to say about starting from an absolute blank. PITA, not for the first timer, and you end up with a bolt that is married to the barrel for life. Need a new bolt, here goes the long head spacing process again. Still should do it, I should probably have both of mine verified (I don't have any headspace gauges, and not that many gunsmiths have actual 5.56 Nato gauges - different from .223), but 99% of the quality barrels from Centurion, BCM, Etc, are good to go with a quality BCG.
I hope both of you are meaning Centurion not Criterion, or is there another flavor out there?
Both of mine are Centurion barrels. My middy is a 16" CHF chrome lined, with 8k+ rounds down range and shoots 1.25 MOA @ 100 (around the 7500 mark) with me behind the trigger (I am no marksman by any stretch of the imagination) using a RDS, and my 55gr reloads. That I can tell there is no throat erosion or any other issues with it, and I have only cleaned it 4, maybe 5 times.
My MK12 is an 18" Stainless barrel made by Compass Lake - same barrel issued to the Mil. and had 2k rounds down range, no accuracy tests yet, need to get my MK262 ammo dialed in and a proper scope. I suspect that it will be a MOA shooter as well.
HH - CHF and Chrome lined is the standard for just about all the AR players out there. DD, Noveske, Larue, BCM, Colt, etc. You can get Stainless as well, but the CHF and Chrome lined barrels have an extremely long life, upwards of 30k rounds. These are work rifles and are accurate for their design, generally 2 MOA or better with your average shooter. Stainless barrels are more accurate, but shorter life.
Greg - On a midlength gas system, using the gas block as the FS mounting, your are going to either have to get a cut out handguard or you will be stuck with a 9" handguard. Not sure what your reason is for wanting the FS on the gas block vs. mounting it to the handguard, unless you are getting one of those rail-less tubes.
The modern, quality, longer handugards mated up to the upper receiver are very rigid, gives the barrel a full free float, and are generally not an issue for front sight variation from shot to shot with irons. Having said that, one never mounts an optic (RDS, Holographic, or Scope) on the handguard or across the bridge for the reason of potential problems with holding zero. That is why we call them Back Up Iron Sights (BUIS). Due to my vision, I can't shoot irons worth a darn at ranges farther than 50y. Even closer in, it's still guess work but less chance of missing that 16" wide target, forget placing the shot in that preferred 4" circle. With the availability and quality of modern RDS and smaller scopes (where the failure has to be just about catastrophic other than a dead battery), Irons are really becoming a thing of the past.
Here is a videos by Daniel Defense that were meant to show off the durability of their rifles, but actually say worlds more about the durability of the Aimpoint RDS. Pay attention to the abuse that Aimpoint takes and still holds zero.
Anyhow, you also get into temperature changes and expansion which is insignificant at 50y, but will start to make a difference farther out, especially when your irons wheelbase (for lack of a better description) is only 12" to 14" ~ I'm estimating, to lazy to go measure mine.
If you are firm on an 18" or 20" barrel, I'd move up to a rifle length gas system, still good to go on the A5 receiver extension.
Bottom line, your rifle, you have to shoot it. My advice, take it as you will, is firm on one piece low profile gas block, pinned, and a 12" (16" barrel) or 15" (18" to 20" barrel) handguard/rail/forend/tube. The standard from the last 8 years in testing and development for the front sight is either a forged one piece FSP gas block, or low profile gas block and a rail height FS attached to the rail.