Some Basic Questions on Clutch/transmission Upgrades

[HeavyHauler]

Hey guys, eventually I would like to put together what I would consider the "ultimate towing truck" and before I start toting heavy loads, I know that I'm gonna need a better clutch. I have a 5-speed by the way.



I'm running the EZ and 1. 6's right now and the clutch is fine but if I start abusing it by hooking to big loads, I figure I'll start to have problems.



I'm looking at either a SBC Con FE or (if I can swing it) a SBC Dual Disk. I'd really like to go with the DD because of the durability but I'm not sure if it's worth the money. Here's the questions:



1) Is it really worth the $700 to install the 1 3/8" input shaft? I know that I'll have to do this if I go the DD route, but if I went with your basic Con FE, would I really need it?



2) If I do upgrade to the 1 3/8" input shaft, does this mean that I then need to buy a clutch for the 6-speed? i. e. , a MU1947 version instead of the MU13-1. 25 variety? I notice that the 6-speed clutches are a little cheaper.



3) While I have all this going on, would it be best to install a fully splined mainshaft with the updated 5th gear nut from Standard Transmission? I don't want to have a problem with this in the future, and would it be fairly easy to do this upgrade while I'm installing a clutch?



4) Finally, is a DD clutch "too much clutch" for the setup that I'm running right now? I'll probably be at this power level for a year or more before I get everything else done so what do you think?



Ultimately, I'll have a set of towing twins, an adjustable TST, and whatever EDM's Don recommends to use with my setup.



Please bear in mind that I do want to have the best possible setup for the truck. Cost is definitely a concern, but if there's a chance that I might have problems with something down the road, I would like to fix it now.



Thanks for the help once again guys!

 

[Got Smoke?]

Hans I'll throw in my $. 02 and try to keep it brief.



EDIT:

Well so much for that..... had a big long paragraph and then went back and saw the comment on towing twins, TST, & EDM's.



Anyways short and sweet Hans.

I had a 13" FE in my previous truck, it was a little grabby for my taste's. However, it was FAR superior to the TST button clutch it replaced (thanks to a sled & Cynthiana KY :-laf ) that was either IN or OUT. The Con FE is full furamic metal material on both sides. Less give than a usual ceramic organic material in the Con OFE's and lower. Is it streetable yeah, but it would probably be a little bit of a burden backing heavy loads.



I really wouldn't go with the DD unless you just think its absolutely necessary. Its a lot of dollars to drop (you know that I definately know that) and unless you plan on a 600HP rig or hooking to a sled then Peter can probably get you buy with a single disk. However, he may tell you to go with a less aggressive dual disk I don't know. My 3850 plate load dual disk engage's better and drives better than my 13" FE did in my opinion. It takes a little longer to shift, and "double clutching" 3rd helps it to get it in better but its VERY streetable.



You basically have to decide what HP level your truck is going to be at, or what you disire then talk to Peter and he will set you up with exactly what you need. Don't go OVERKILL on a clutch either, my KYDTR Pres. 's 99 3500's syncro's were going out when he traded it because he towed max limit (and MORE) cattle everyday with a Con OFE and only a Edge EZ... to much clutch

 

[Rman]

I have the CON FE... it's a fabulous clutch, BUT it is a touch grabby. When I back heavy loads it's a bit tricky. It's smooth until it heats up then becomes very grabby and chattery. If you can get you technique down I have found it to be manageable. I think most would consider it a pain in the arse, I just deal with it because it is one TOUGH clutch.



I suggest the OFE for your horsepower level.

 

[Got Smoke?]

I suggest the OFE for your horsepower level.

notice just below #4 "towing twins, edm's, and a TST" a OFE won't hold that much.

 

[RustyJC]

Doesn't Peter have a towed weight/BHP limitation on the small diameter clutch discs due to the damping springs bottoming out and tearing out the clutch disc hub? I think he requires an upgrade to the larger HO-style clutch for his warranty to apply in heavy towing/higher BHP applications.



Might be worth a check on the South Bend Clutch website.



Rusty

 

[Rman]

Whoops, I kind of assumed you had an HO pump, but I'm sure you don't with a 5 speed. HO pumps don't support much bigger EDM than 3's or 4's. This is the big grey area on clutches. Obviously towing you don't want chatter, but you need the strength of the feramic pads. Frankly my truck with a better turbo would be plenty for what I tow, and I routinely tow over my GCVW. I just keep an eye on my stock turbo and rarely having problems at all. I have edm 2's and a comp.



I don't advise the dual disk on any truck you want to put miles on. The weight on the clutch assembly can't be very good on the synchro's of the transmission. They sure can hold some power though, a good sled clutch.

 

[Boomer II]

Look here for 5 speed info. I highly suggest a 6 speed, way better towing.

 

[HeavyHauler]

I'm not swapping trannies - good grief.

 

[SRadke]

I would normally suggest OFE to keep it smooth and avoid the holeshots and sled pulling. I don't think you'll walk through an OFE with what you're planning. That said, My DD will be here Monday, I'll be in the 600 hp range before the end of the summer and I'm only going to do the clutch once.



Not that it applied to you but I've installed 3 of Peter's MU0090 Ralley clutches in heavy towing sub 300 horse power levels and all are working fabulous.



-Scott

 

[Boomer II]

I'm not swapping trannies - good grief.

Grief is being 300 miles into a 2500 mile trip and losing 5th gear, I've had that happen twice, lost 5th 4 times. To each his own.