Some Dumb questions on towing........

[Dkevdog]

Picked up my new 5er tonight Dealer still has some work to do on the bathroom where fleetwood installers deceided the wall should be nice and bowed so the door wont shut . But that's another story. We'll be testing it out this weekend (probably in the driveway because every campground for 100 miles is full ).



Questions are:



1) When pulling it home, it seemed a bit difficult to stop. I have the Drawtite Activator 2 controller. The wieght of the trailer (all tanks are currently full) is about 7500lbs. I adjusted the controller to a "more aggressive" setting to about 3. 5 or 4- but it seemed that if I did that the brakes would "jerk" and at lower speeds when I came up to a stop the stuttered. So I decreased the "aggression" down to about 2. 5 and it did stop some of the stutter, but the rig seems to be relying more on the truck to stop. I'm going to take the truck in to the Hitch place tomorrow and have him double check everything, but does anybody have any input on this?



And 2) See my Sig below for mods, but it sure seemed to me that the truck was very sluggish to get up to speed, and even on pretty much flat ground, my EGT's under moderate acceleration went up to 1000 to 1100. I know that isn't a problem, but I wasn't even pulling a grade!! I'd hate to see what that guage will do pulling over the grapevine!?!?!? Is this normal temps and power loss? Or am I just new to this towing this heavy a load thing (I didn't think 7500 - 8000 was that much). The power was there, it just really seemed slow to use it and accelerate.



Sorry for the long post!

Kev

 

[RAMalama]

CONGRATS W/YOUR NEW FLEETWOOD

I tow a big Terry Fleetwood 5er. It's my second Fleetwood product. A lot of people will tell you about the lack of quality workmanship with Fleetwood products and well, they're not all that wrong. I buy Fleetwood 'cause they stand by their product (they have for me anyway) and use quality components ie: Dexter axles, Atwood water heaters, Dometic refrigerators etc...



Don't care much for the Drawtite controller. Tried a electronic (vice inertia) and it lacked the power the Tekonsha units have. It's extremely important to have both the pos. and neg. leads attached DIRECTLY to battery as per the instructions. All four-lead controllers wire up the same.



Not much you can do about bucking. When you're heavy, there's always going to be some. It shouldn't be bad though.



And let me be the first to say: Buy an E-brake. This should be included in the towing packages offered by DC.



Not sure about EGT. I don't have gages. Wish I did. I know I tow hot 'cause of the discoloration of the exhaust manifold, turbo, and manifold bolt extention collars (or what ever you call them).



Have fun! I absoulutely love my Terry. Wouldn't buy anything else. And for me, towing with my Dodge is just as fun as the camping I'll do when I arrive...



Ian.

 

[moparguy]

Congrats on the new trailer

Kev, looks like you've got a nice package. I'm really not qualified to comment on the new trailer, not having pulled one of the big boy campers. However I do know that it's hard to be happy with a non progressive type electronic brake controller.



On the EGT's, unless I misread your truck's profile, you still have the stock air filter. If that's the case, try a higher capacity air filter. That really helped my truck.



Good luck, Ronnie

 

[RustyJC]

Kev,



Just a suggestion - if you want to save a lot of frustration with the brake controller (been there, done that, got the t-shirt to prove it), consider the Jordan Ultima 2020. This is a true proportional controller that varies the amperage output to the trailer brakes as a linear function of truck brake pedal travel. To do this, it uses a control cable between the controller and the brake pedal arm. Jordan Research is a small company with a website at http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/finisterre/1228/jorjan/id18.htm - if you call them, chances are you'll talk to Jordan himself!



Rusty

 

[Eric_77]

I had the Drawtite Activator II installed in my 96 while the Tekonsha was installed in 92. Pulled once with that damn thing took it back to hitch co and they said yes I was using it correctly. Ripped that thing out and had a Tekonska installed in 96 before I towed again. The Drawtite I hated beciuse slow speeds brake was too much and high speeds it was not enough. Then if you wanted to use the manual control it would only go as high as the preset no higher What good was sthe manual control then.

I think there are better ones on the market but never ever again a controller that does not have inertia or brake pedal pressure sensor(s)

 

[lhend50]

I agree with the post about the Jordan brake controller. I just put one on and it is excellent. The harder you push the brake in the truck, the more the brakes are applied to the trailer. I had a Tekonska controller and had the same problem when going slow. I found I was always adjusting the controller for high speed or low speed driving. With the Jordan, once it is set you don't touch it. It is rather expensive but well worth it.

 

[klenger]

Jordan makes a great brake controller, ... but a terrible web site.

 

[Dkevdog]

Took the truck back to the hitch guy and he said he could install the newer Activator III controller for another $50. He said that the new controller has a dash mounted remote and is easier to adjust and control. It supposedly has a quicker ramp as well (activation of the trailer brakes) I am going to look in to the Jordan controller as well. Trailer service guy says the trailer brakes need to wear in some and it will get better. I'm gonna pull it around town a bit to wear it in and see.



Kev

 

[SteveH]

I pull a 31' 5th wheel and gross a little over 20k. Took my Tekonsha off this year and installed a Drawtite Activator II. The unit did require a bit of playing with to get it set up like I wanted it but I think it is the best controller I have ever had. Set at max it will definitely lock the trailer brakes up if that is what I wanted (it isn't but I tried it and it will lock them up).

being able to ramp the power at different speeds actually helps me in city driving, I just take it down into the 2. 5-3. 0 range and it does just fine. There are no moving parts in the digital unit, so there is neve any more "pendulums" to recalibrate every year or every time something hit the brake unit. The new digitals get my vote.



As far as pulling: I went from central Montana to Bozeman this week with the 5th wheel and pulled the Columbus Hill and Bozeman Pass and never got out of 5th gear. Only slowed down on Bozeman Pass because of the 55 mph curves. The Dr. Performance Phase II kit is the only way to go! or at least a very good alternative to some of the others.

Steve H

 

[Rambling]

Pulled our 5'r that was close to it's 9600 lb GVWR when we moved from the west coast. Have the Jordan Ultima 2020 unit. Got smooth,consistant braking. Still works great with a slightly lighter load. Won't leave home without it!

 

[Dkevdog]

Steve- I did some more driving and some playing with the controller- and like you said 2. 5 to 3 seems to be best for stop and go city. Had it up to 4 or so coming down a fairly steep incline grade, and it seemed to do good. I think I will still have the Activator III installed- he said I should have gotten the controller anyhow- but his shipment hadn't yet arrived. They are brand new only been out a couple of weeks. Saw one today and it looks real nice. Especially now that he said he'll give it to more for $20 more- no labor charges to install. The Jordan controller looks nice, How difficult was the install, and how reliable is that mechanical link?



Kev

 

[BC]

Steve H, about this time last year, actually the end of Aug. , we spent 3 weeks in Whitefish MT. On our way home (North Georgia) about 25 miles west of Bozeman, my trannie let go. . actually the torque converter fried and took about everything else with it. Was in Bozeman for 3 weeks getting trannie/tc rebuilt. Great place to brake down.



Dkevdog, first, watch your egts! The numbers you're getting are high. Someone else asked whether you are using a stock airfilter or not. I hope you're not. I pull a 14,000 lb. 36ft 5er; on level ground, at 70mph, I may get 600 degrees (post turbo sensor).



As I said above, I fried my trannie outside of Bozeman, it was my fault!!! I had increased my horse power, gone to a K&G airfilter, switched to synthetics - but not synthetic ATF (and still haven't but will soon) - and added a BD exhaust brake (which I love), pressureloc, and torqueloc (I never use the torqueloc).



My trannie had 93,000 miles when it failed. Since I pull heavy and often that was pretty good... especially if you consider the fact that I didn't put on any guages (trannie temp and egt) until the truck had 86,000 miles. I am sure, because of my total ignorance, I had damaged my trannie before I got my guages. I had pulled our 5er up several long grades in overdrive (auto trannie) @ 55 mph.



Knowing what I know now - learning what I've learned from this board - I don't know why my trannie didn't fail at 40,000 miles. It sure should have.



With any truck that towes, in my opinion, one needs guages (especially the trannie and egt guage), synthetic fluids (as I said, I now think it is a mistake not to have synthetic trannie fluid as well. I was a hard sell on this issue. At my next trannie fluid change I'll go to synthetic. ), a good airfilter (I have a K&G in the airbox but will soon switch to the K&N 0880 because of more airflow), an exhaust brake, a power increase, and finally, when one's trannie fails, a great TC (this should include a better valve body).



Hope this helps.



Bill Cook

 

[Dkevdog]

The Banks Power Pak includes (as does all of banks upgrades) a custom K&N air filter. We pulled the trailer up to Idllywild for the weekend (7200 foot climb) and the truck seemed to do well. transmission never got above 190, although Egt's stayed constant (on the pull) at about 1000-1100. Under some acceleration on a grade, we saw short bursts of 1250. I still think its a bit high. I need to figure out why. I don't really think that 8000lbs is that heavy a load for the truck. Will have to look in to it. Anyone have any ideas??



Kev

 

[moparguy]

Kev, based on my truck's performance, you're not doing bad. I don't know how the fuel level of the Banks kit comparies with my setup, but your EGT's are about what I hope to see this fall when I head to Colorado.



I will likely have the new 16cm turbo housing installed by then. Got it from Piers several weeks ago and just haven't tackled the install. Been procrasting since I suspect I'll not be happy with the expected (although likely slight) turbo lag. We'll see.

 

[Dkevdog]

Moparguy- I still have my CAT and muffler- I really would like to keep the muffler, but would killing the CAT be any improvement on lowering my EGT's?? I tried to get an answer out of the board about whether the test pipe would fit with my Banks Exhaust, but got no real answer back. I assume is would, just don't know for sure.



Kev

 

[moparguy]

Hard to say.

As I mentioned above. your egt's don't look bad. Of course cooler is better. If it were me, I'd go down to the local muffler shop, with the dimensions in hand for a custom test pipe. Have them cut the appropriate piece of pipe, and flair both ends. This will make for a easier installation if you weld everything back together. Then do a home install.



Of course if you want to use flanges, allowing for a future temporary reinstall, the shop, or a buddy with a wire welder could do that.



I honestly don't know about the test pipes compatability with the Banks system.



If your converter is still open, ..... likely no improvement, plugged... ... lots of improvement.



Good luck, Ronnie



ps, if the muff shop guy should ask what you need the pipe for, a creative answer is best.

 

[Dkevdog]

Thanks Ronnie-



I have a friend who might be able to help out (welder). Is there any other way to tell of the Cat might be plugged up some without removing it?? I wouldn't think so, but it sounds like a good excuse for a test pipe- just to see if there is any improvement. Someone also suggested (based on my sig) that I try and remove the stainless grill front to see if that improves airflow. I don't think it would make a difference, but I might give it a shot and see. I remember putting them on (ran with out them and with the guages for three months) and not seeing any real difference in either engine temp or EGT's.



Kev

 

[moparguy]

You might try this test. Stand at the back of the truck near the exhaust tip with the turck running. Have someone turn the key off. Even with the cat and muff in place, you should hear the turbo spin down for a very few seconds, assuming no restriction. No spin down sound, I'd stongly suspect the cat being restricted.



If you get the chance, do this same test with a straight piped truck, turbo winds down for many many seconds.



RJR