some observations after crawling under my new truck

[shendren]

i noticed there is more room. or so it appears.



track bar design has changed since my 12V



looks like the strarter will be easier to get to if you can drop it and not have the trans lines in the way.



easy to get to the radiator drain plug.



the ac condensate line has the little extension on it so the water don't soak the insulation.



steering box looks like it's easier to get to.



overall i like the room from above and below for the basic garage floor service.



btw,



i know it's july in florida but i run up north in the winter some, so where is the electric plug in for the block heater?



i looked but didn't see it hiding in the fender anywhere??



please don't tell me that is now an add on.

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

Originally posted by shendren

where is the electric plug in for the block heater?



i looked but didn't see it hiding in the fender anywhere??



please don't tell me that is now an add on.

Im afraid that's it exactly shendren. Starting this year unless you specifially order it you don't get the block heater (or was it you get the block heater and no cord?).

 

[Pawpaw]

Re: Re: some observations after crawling under my new truck

Originally posted by Vaughn MacKenzie

Im afraid that's it exactly shendren. Starting this year unless you specifially order it you don't get the block heater (or was it you get the block heater and no cord?).

The block heater is there on all CTD's, only the cord is missing. It can be purchased from the dealer for about $40, if memory serves.



You can also buy it from Cummins for something like $13. The only difference is that it won't have the little do-dads to attach the cord along the frame. That's what ty-wraps are for.

 

[KCJackson]

And since the factory option is a mere $10, it's a no brainer if you even THINK you'll need it.

 

[ThomasLawrence]

looks like the strarter will be easier to get to if you can drop it and not have the trans lines in the way.

I can't comment on the starter removal on older CTD's, but on my '03, I thought it was a PITA. They used 10mm 12-point bolts, which limited my selection of sockets. The one on the top was the toughest to get to. I finally found the right combination of extensions to position the ratchet just in front of the starter, and finally got the bolt to break loose (yep, like everything else, these are also extremely tight from the factory - probably due to the clearcoat).



Put it this way - hope you never have to change one on the side of the road.



-Tom

 

[DGFoster]

The first thought when I first looked under mine compared to the 2000 I had,was no oil anywhere,it is bone dry after 2500 miles,I know the breather bottle had lots to do with the 2000 being wet under there,but it is sure nice to see it clean under there.

 

[obie1]

ThaomasL



How much was the starter replacement? Here in texas they are telling me ther are no re-manufactures true?

 

[ThomasLawrence]

How much was the starter replacement?

Oh, I have no idea. I removed mine during a transmission R&R (then discovered I didn't need to remove it to begin with... so much for following the FSM).



-Tom

 

[shendren]

i asked about the starter because on the 12V's we found that after about 50,000mi the starter contacts, actually just one contact, became extremely thin and worn. then we were in danger of the plunger sticking and things started to fail, like the shut down solenoid. guess i'll probably watch this starter as well cause it appears the same as the 12V. larry b's can sell you the contacts and new starters. big discount.

 

[Dieselnut59]

Originally posted by shendren

i asked about the starter because on the 12V's we found that after about 50,000mi the starter contacts, actually just one contact, became extremely thin and worn. then we were in danger of the plunger sticking and things started to fail, like the shut down solenoid. guess i'll probably watch this starter as well cause it appears the same as the 12V. larry b's can sell you the contacts and new starters. big discount.

HA!!! 193,000+ miles on the ole '96 and the starter has never been removed. I did buy a set of those contacts when everyone was talking about them, but they have been collecting dust in the door pocket for years!

I did remove the starter on my 1998 work truck though, because the solenoid came loose. I installed a set of the big contacts in it at that time, but it was not difficult at all to remove/reinstall the starter. All the other starters are original, never removed, even on our ole '92 work trucks.

 

[GWoody]

I can't gripe about the starters, my ol 91 went 297000 before I had to replace it. Oh yeah still got the factory cluthch too, lots of towing too but either push it all the way in or let it out all the way, nothin in between.

 

[AlaskanCummins]

I'm a little disappointed that mine didn't come with a fuel tank skid plate . Not that she's going to see any off-road action; it would just be nice to know that the plastic tank would have a tad bit more protection.



Other than that, I'm impressed mostly with the frame. Very nice indeed.



Wayne Oo.

 

[Yo Hoot]

I did my first oil change on a Cummins recently and was favorably impressed. Oil drained out fast and clean and the filter came out with only a couple of stray drops.



Also notice the radiator drain being right there. Something GM NEVER can execute. Draining a GM truck is like bucket heaven and you need a contortionist to get the valve open.

 

[Guest]

Turbo is a pain to get to compared to the 2nd Gens, in case I want to play with it.