Sometimes long cranking

[B.G. Smith]

06, last few weeks sometimes when I first try to start truck it will turn like normal but no start, I try second time and it starts. I checked the fuel pressure today and it is 10# at idle, 10# with just the key on and drops to zero when key is turned off. Runs smooth when it is started. No unusuall smoke. bg

 

[Crunch]

06, last few weeks sometimes when I first try to start truck it will turn like normal but no start, I try second time and it starts. I checked the fuel pressure today and it is 10# at idle, 10# with just the key on and drops to zero when key is turned off. Runs smooth when it is started. No unusuall smoke. bg

When I've had that problem it has usually been either the batteries going bad, or poor battery connections due to corrosion under the insulation. How old are your batteries and cables? Also, once started, it would start every time the rest of the day, but be back to long starts in the morning. If you think it might be batteries, try connecting a charger to the batteries for 8 hours or so and see how easy it starts then.

 

[B.G. Smith]

When I've had that problem it has usually been either the batteries going bad, or poor battery connections due to corrosion under the insulation. How old are your batteries and cables? Also, once started, it would start every time the rest of the day, but be back to long starts in the morning. If you think it might be batteries, try connecting a charger to the batteries for 8 hours or so and see how easy it starts then.

I was kinda afraid that might be the problem. The batteries are 4 years old this past December. I checked the voltage this morning (sixty here last night) and got 12.1 with them still tied together. I will separate and check again. Thanks for the reply. bg

 

[Killgore]

BG, fuel pressure sounds pretty normal to me, or at least that's what mine runs and does when I first crank. I had to replace the batteries two months ago but they would still try and turn over the engine as they were dying, finally just the starter clicking.

- Ed

 

[cerberusiam]

If the injectors and HP fuel system is in good shape they will still start with low batteries and a few more revolutions. You should be able to hear that in the starter turning slower on the starts. A lot of times once you warm the batteries by attempting to start it will boost them enough to start right the next time you hit the key. 12.1 volts is not enough, they should be reading 12.7 to 13 if the batteries are good and holding a charge. Load test the batteries separately to see if they test good is really the only way to tell.

 

[B.G. Smith]

Well it turns out one battery was bad. Put in two new and starts much quicker. I still may have something leaking down but for now I am not afoot. Is there a way I can discontinue the intake heaters without showing a cod? Thanks all. bg

 

[cerberusiam]

Sure, just disconnect the power wire to the relays from the passenger side battery.
No codes on mine but an 06 may be different, have to try it.

 

[Crunch]

Well it turns out one battery was bad. Put in two new and starts much quicker. I still may have something leaking down but for now I am not afoot. Is there a way I can discontinue the intake heaters without showing a cod? Thanks all. bg

If it was the passenger side battery that was dead you might check the crossover cable. A corroded crossover cable is notorious for killing the passenger side battery. They can also corrode back into the insulation where you can't see it. It's also an easy fix. You can get a new cable, military grade terminal (passenger side) and heavy duty lug (drivers side) from McMaster-Carr fairly cheap.

 

[B.G. Smith]

Thanks for the heads up, it was the passenger side battery that went bad. I will recheck that cable and the ground from that side.

If it was the passenger side battery that was dead you might check the crossover cable. A corroded crossover cable is notorious for killing the passenger side battery. They can also corrode back into the insulation where you can't see it. It's also an easy fix. You can get a new cable, military grade terminal (passenger side) and heavy duty lug (drivers side) from McMaster-Carr fairly cheap.

 

[B.G. Smith]

I did that first and the CEL light came on, hooked that wire back and disconnected line to heaters, light still on but may reset after I drive it?

Sure, just disconnect the power wire to the relays from the passenger side battery.
No codes on mine but an 06 may be different, have to try it.

 

[cerberusiam]

You may have to clear the code. If both circuits are monitored then the CEL will come back.

 

[Crunch]

Thanks for the heads up, it was the passenger side battery that went bad. I will recheck that cable and the ground from that side.

Based on other discussions at TDR, the alternator charges the passenger side battery, and the crossover cable trickles the charge over to the drivers side battery. The fly in the ointment is that the ECM reads the charge on the drivers side battery, so if the crossover cable isn't conducting well, the ECM tells the alternator to keep charging, which burns out the passenger side battery.

 

[B.G. Smith]

Bought and installed new batteries and long cranking to start is gone. bg

 

[B.G. Smith]

You may have to clear the code. If both circuits are monitored then the CEL will come back.

Will the CEL reset if I hook theheaters back up or will I need a obd11 code reader? bg

 

[cerberusiam]

After so many restarts the CEL should go off. You will need a scanner capable of the clearing the DTC's to remove it from ECM memory.