Sorry Scotty

[BIG BOB]

Is anyone having the black sluge or dirt in the tubro fins,that has a Psychotty?

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99 Quad Cab, White, SLT, 4x4, 5-sp, 3:54's, LSD, Loaded except cab lights and leather, Raven cap (cab high), Rhino liner, Stainless Nerf Bars, Stainless Rocker Panels, Tow package, Pro-flap mud flaps with Stainless Cummins "C" add to rear flaps, Power Edge (my first BOMB), Valentine One, Amsoil throughout, Uniden PC78LTW CB Radio with Mike Brolin's CB mounting bracket for STICKS.

Things to come;

Hadley Bully Air Horns, 285/75R16 Cooper A/T's, SPA Pyro and Boost gauge, 4" exhaust system, DDIII's, Psychotty Air Filter.

NRA Life Member! (Need to protect our rights and FREEDOM!!)

 

[TXRam]

Amianthus,

The filter minder is set-up for the stock boost/air flow - once you start bobmbing all bets are off. I don't pay any attention to it.

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1999 2500 QC 4X4 LB Auto 4. 10LS, Driftwood, CD player with Steering Wheel Controls, Power Driver's Seat, 275HP Injectors, PowerEdge, Bill K's Valve Body, ISSPRO Boost and EGT, K&N Air Filter, Brushguard, Spray-in Liner, 285/75R16 BFG AT KO's, Nerf Bars, Black Diamond Plate Deep Well Tool Box, Mopar flat antispray guards (front and back)
Soon to have: Bill K's TC when available
2000 Yamaha Big Bear 400 4X4
NRA Member

 

[drawson]

Big Bob, <font color=teal> I have had my Psycotty system now for almost 7000 miles and I just went out and checked again and the turbo is clean. No build up at all. </font>

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Dee'sel
97 2500 Club 4X4 3. 54, Forrest Green/Driftwood, LSD 5 speed, K&N Air filter RE0880 & Psychotty, TST #11 all the way forward, #12 for winter, AFC spring kit, Geno's Exhaust Blanket, TST EGT gauge & TST 0-60 boost gauge in A Pillar, Hypo clutch ass. , Cat-be-gone, 4" Dynomax Bullet muffler, Crome 4" turn down, AmsOil ser 2000 75W-90 in Trans, Geno's trans filter kit, AmsOil 15W-40 Oil W/ Bypass system, AmsOil Ser 2000 75W-90 in front & Rear ends, Lund Winter front, Leer Cab Level Shell Driftwood , 235/85R16 Goodyears, Dyno'd 342 HP *NRA/USPSA member and proud of it*

 

[SteveAZ]

Hey TradedV, I noted no difference at all when I switched to the K&N for 23K and then back to paper. Just the turbo noise is less with the paper. I might try the K&N again after a another good cleaning. Instead of applying the oil as the label suggusts (directly from the bottle in a thin bead on each pleat, too easy to over do it), I might try using a spray bottle and lightly misting the filter. Should have a more even coverage, and less oil.

My only concern with that is having enough oil. It would be worse to ingest all that dust out here.

The EGT's did drop with the boost elbow, and I'm sure another improvement would be noted with 4" exhaust and some again with the pyscotty.

 

[Wade Hogg]

I haven't seen any dirt and oil buildup on the turbo fins at all.

As I sated in the other post by Vaughn, you can overtighten a large hose clamp and allow for a poor seal. No sealing grease is needed for the RE-0880, just a good, firm clamp.

 

[John]

Right on Wade! That's what I stated before. K&N does NOT recommend the use of sealing grease on filter sealing surfaces OTHER THAN the flat panel and donut style filters.

 

[Briar Hopper]

A few days ago, I removed the stock air box and put a K & N Scotty type cone filter right on the end of the turbo hose. It's an RE-870, cost $38. 00. The effect on my EGT's was incredible, it took them down big time. I can stay on the throttle in Level 3 (PowerEdge) for a LONG time now. I have yet to be forced to lift like I was with the stock air box !

 

[B. Gill]

Originally posted by illflem:
I have a Psychotty air unit on my 3500 hauler and am very pleased with it,dropped EGTs about 150. On my 2500 I don't pull a load much but with my right foot problem I still manage to get the EGTs up there. Since I had the extra air box I decided to experiment. Drilled 2 7/8 holes in the left rear side of the the air box and another in the Psychotty firewall location. Connected the holes together with 2 1/2 shop vac hose,a perfect fit. Also drilled some 1/4 holes in bottom of the air box to drain any water that might get in. I am running a K&N filter. Test results-on my "known hill"EGT is down 100,engine is a bit louder(silencer ring might have to go back in),filter minder didn't move(before it went about half way). Before I could hit about 75 mph before backing off due to high EGT,now 95 with room to spare(ran out of hill). I'm sure that a Psycotty unit will flow more air but this is a cheap inbetween,all it cost me was a little time and scrap piece of hose I had laying around. Plus I didn't have to drill that monster hole that some of you guys are so afraid of. Think I'll call it Son of Psyhotty Jr.

i am sorry bill,got a little confused here #ad

how many holes did you drill at the back of the air box? and what was the performnace of the stock box with this set up as compared to k & n?
thanks
bob

 

[illflem]

Bob, I didn't get around to testing the difference between the stock, modified and Phscotty until last weekend, waiting for some high outside temps. I posted it here. I drilled just one hole, would have liked to make it larger but there is limited space on the dirty side of the stock air box. Another member came up with the excellent idea of drilling two side by side overlapping holes in the airbox, cutting the extra out to make an oval hole. You can then use squeezed down to oval 4" ducting instead of 3". Drill a larger hole in the firewall also. I'm not sure of the hole saw sizes he used but know they were different, maybe that person will see this and post them. I don't think plugging the fender hole is necessary at all if you leave the stock horn in, it will suck cool outside air. Also the way the vent cowl intake is designed the aerodynamics of the truck force air into the added intake, almost like adding a blower. More air will end up coming in though the added hole than the stock fender hole. I have found over almost a year of use that the Son of Phscotty performs almost a well as a real Phscotty until you get into very heavy loads and hills, price is better though.

 

[B. Gill]

thanks Bill,appreciate the reply.
coming week end will look into it.
bob

 

[rich m]

at very high roadspeeds (90+mph) the Psychotty induction actually gives a little "freebie" boost, even after your wastegate opens. #ad

My w/gate blows at 28psi, but at high speeds, and "punched" I can get 30 for a short stretch (EGT on the run where i observed that effect were only about 900-post, but that's all the fuel I had. ) My "pit crew" did that in order to keep me from destroying my stock torque converter.
Doesn't give freebie extra psi's at legal speeds, though #ad

 

[JMoglia]

Originally posted by BIG BOB:
Is anyone having the black sluge or dirt in the tubro fins,that has a Psychotty?

Hey big Bob,I did have some black on blades,I think it was from breather holes I drilled in housing,trying to get more air,I do think the end of housing is way to small,this morning when I got to my shop I made a tapper and put it in hole at fire wall then I opened up end of housing now air flows much easer so I don't think i'll be getting anymore soot in vanes.

 

[Bob Horrell]

illflem,
Years ago I did the same modifications to my airbox (4" hole in firewall and oval in bottom of stock airbox)in order to keep EGTs down. This was the first step. I then acquired a exhaust blanket to reduce the heat near the intake. Next I insulated the airbox with some aluminum backed fiberglass. All of these seemed to help the EGTs. Then I bought an RE0880 with the foam sock and started all over. My final mod was to use a 8" airconditioning T as a filter housing with the leg of the T pointing to the stock fender air hole and the top portion acting as the psychotty filter housing. All this is wrapped with insulation and an insulated cowl connects the leg of the T to the stock fender opening. All hot engine air is insulated from the filter and only ram cold air from the firewall and the fender enter the filter housing. This works extremely well for me and I run a #5 TST plate with stock turbo on an original 215hp engine - a supposed no no due to high egts. I advanced my timing to 16 which helped the egts as well. As long as I don't run my rpms too high (I stay in the 1800 to 2300 range) I can run hard up the hills with 20,000lbs gross and keep cool. My next step was to install a mist system in front of the intercooler to use when things got too hot but I have found that I don't really need it. An example of my exhaust temp was this evening on my way home I was pulling 20,000lb gross up a steep hill at 60mph, 2000rpm, outside temp 82 degrees, boost 32lbs, and exhaust temp was 750 post turbo. I have run the same hill at 40+ lbs of boost and had 950 to 1000 degrees post turbo but my engine rpms were climbing past 2300 and I was definitely over the speed limit of 55mph.
I haven't made any more mods in a couple of years now but keep toying with the idea of the mist system just to see what difference it might make. I used one in a race jeep with a 400hp 327 engine and it helped significantly. I had a custom radiator built but there was only so much room in that little jeep and the mist system was the only thing that really worked.
Well, I've rambled enough. Maybe this will give someone an idea to play with. Let me know if you have any questions about any of the above.

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96 2500 4X4 5sp 4:10 215hp SLT Horton fan,#5TST plate,AFC spring kit, advanced timing,4"exhaust,GearVendors,BFG 285/75/16 on Mickey Thompson Challenger wheels, RE0880 in insulated housing, Detroit Locker,50#Boost and Pyro guages, Aluminim flatbed, gooseneck and bp hitches,Helwig air bags with compressor, Helwig sway bar, Rancho 2" front lift w/9000 shocks all around, Preluber w/aircraft hoses,Hytec rear cover,PacBrake,McCleod dual disc clutch,numerous other accessories. Pull 11,000lb aluminum gooseneck horse trlr. and 14,500lb equipment trlr.

 

[Forrest]

Bob,

Is your #5 plate centered? Jim Leonard is running his #5 all the way forward, stock turbo & 215 pump. Jim is sucking air thru the Bullydog hood scoop & claims EGT's are ok. Talk about dangerous fuel levels. #ad


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Money Sink - 96, 5 speed, TST 380, HX40-16, 300 HP Injectors, Scourge BD 4200rpm Governor kit, McLeod, 4", CATless, straight out back, chrome turn down, ISSPRO Pillar, Delvac 1 & Amsiol, K&N, Mag-Hytec, 3:54, Michelin 235s on Alcoas, Rancho 9000's, Valentine One, Garmin.
Dutchmen 27' 5th Wheel.
GoldWing.

 

[Bob Horrell]

Forrest,
My #5 plate is all the way forward just like Jim's. I drove his truck in early '98 just after he installed the plate and like it so much I did the same. The low end and mid range are terrific. I feel I don't need to rev it with the GV overdrive unit. My EGTs were a problem in the beginning if I pushed it hard with a load. I already had the 4" exhaust so I started working on the other end and made all the modifications listed earlier. Now it is OK as long as I don't lug it or over-rev it. It really seems to like 1800 to 2300 rpms.
I feel that keeping the hot engine compartment air away from the intake system and allowing only cold outside air via the stock fender opening and the firewall hole really help. Also, advancing the timing to 16 degrees helps also although the engine water temp increases some. The exhaust blanket requires a little longer cool down time before engine shut down. I confirm this every time I drive my wife's 95 Dodge Cummins that doesn't have a blanket. Hers cools faster.
It would be interesting to have someone with a Psychotty system add the blanket and insulate the Psychotty and see if they notice any difference. That would be something fairly close to my set up. I am not sure how much difference getting additional air from the stock fender opening would make over the Psychotty.

 

[drawson]

I have the Psychotty and have insulated it as wel as the pipe coming out of the turbo. I was also running the manifold cover but found that it kept my EGT higher while towing. They build up the same but stay higher while towing. The insulation on the housing and pipe where worth about 75 deg reduction in EGT over all. I have also put an 8" electric fan in front of the rt side that blow on the intercooler. It is wired to come on when the intake temp reaches 125 deg. as well as with a manual over ride switch. I have a light on the dash that tell me when it comes on. The last two days it has been 85-90 and the intercooler fan run almost all the time the A/C is on around town. It goes of as soon as the speed reaches 45 MPH. I am going to work on moving the A/C behind the intercooler.

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EAT'M UP
97 2500 Club 4X4 3. 54, Forrest Green/Driftwood, LSD 5 speed, & Psychotty Air System, TST #11, 370 HP injectors, timing at 16 deg. , 16CM2 housing, AFC spring kit, TST EGT gauge & 0-60 boost gauge in A Pillar, Cat-be-gone, 4" Dynomax Bullet muffler, Crome 4" turn down, 3 Electric Fans, One inside, One in front of A/C, One in front of intercooler, AmsOil Through out, Geno's trans filter kit, AmsOil Bypass system, Lund Winter front, Leer Cab Level Shell Driftwood , 255/85R16, South Bend's Hypo Clutch*NRA/USPSA member and proud of it*

 

[Forrest]

Bob,

Thought you'd say that. #ad
The way I read the table on the dieselpage link is that the #5 centered is 50hp more than the #10, if you assume that the 215 pump adds fuel the same as the pumps listed in the middle. Sliding all the way forward in our pumps is worth another 60hp or so. That's 110hp over the #10 or 440hp!
http://www.dieselpage.com/tstpk.htm

Have you put that beast on a dyno? #ad

 

[Todd T]

my aluminum replacment for the Psychotty is going to be out soon, and it will exaclty replace the scotty, using the same hole and filter. it also has some slots in the side facing the fender that help reduce temps a little more (i saw another 25 with my truck)and greatly reduces the sucking noise heard in the cab. the only noise heard is the back-woosh between shifts and at higher boost levels (25-35psi) the sucking comes back and can be heard over the turbo whistle a little.
take a look,

#ad


coming soon,look for it on some trucks in Muncie, in June #ad


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Todd,
2001 Q-cab SB 4x4 5spd 3. 55's,PowerMax3 adj. , A pillar Boost/EGT,4" turboback exhaust,custom built aluminum airbox W/K&N-RE0860 through the cowl, 310HP/675ft-lbs and more to come...

 

[Bob Horrell]

Forrest,
I have never had my truck on a dyno. Jim told me it should dyno between 400 and 450hp. If I am not mistaken, Jim had to go to propane to get over 425hp in his truck.
All I know is that it has served me well. It is a work truck and 90% of it's miles have been hauling between 15,000 and 23,000lbs gross. It has spent a fair amount of time in 4X4 as I have had to haul my tractor up some pretty nasty, steep dirt roads. There have been a couple of places where the road was so bumpy and steep that I had to literally idle up it in 4 wheel drive because to go any faster would have bounced my tractor right off the trailer. I couldn't believe that the Cummins could idle up such a steep hill with so much weight. It felt like a tank.

 

[JMoglia]

Hey Bob,here is a trick i learned from a guy running several tow trucks,and it works,just pull your hood latch and let the secondary latch hold it down,it will stay open enough te let plenty of air into engine compartment,i do it when i know i'm going to work under there,couple of miles from shop,if i was going to do it alot i would modify secondary latch so there is no way it can let go. good luck, JDM JOE