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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Sound supression - has anyone done the headliner?

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Hi all,



I am working towards quieting my truck inside the cab, and have

so far put a layer of 1/2" GSI SoundStop foam on the floor, back

wall, and rear quad cab doors. I am also going to be doing the

main doors when my next shipment of foam arrives.



A Ford buddy of mine used Dynamat type material, and he also

did the headliner/roof area. He said it made a very significant

improvement in his truck. I was just wondering if anyone has

done so with a Dodge, and how much difference it might have made.



I have been sharing lots of emails with Greg Long (Lsfarm), our

very own Noize Nazi and Project Quiet Cummins guru, and he had

not done is roof as I recall.



Just wondering if it would be worth the trouble to do it.



Thanks,

Tom
 
noise reduction

I too have been closely following the noise reduction threads as I am contemplating the project, haven't done any yet It seems that, as bombing goes, noise reduction is a lot like more power in that, once you get some, you want some more.



On a 500-mile trip this past weekend, I was very conscious of noise - source (exhaust, turbo, valves, pan, tires, wind) and direction (firewall, windows, doors, back wall, floor, ceiling).



Overall, I feel that my truck is not too noisy. Having to turn up the stereo at speed and turn it down at a stop is not a unique phenomenon to these vehicles. But too much noise is bad, regardless of the source. What got my attention the most was putting a load on the engine, that is, accelerating at any speed.

This I attribute to the engine - valve and exhaust.

I was otherwise unladen. The other thing that got my attention, though without drama, was difficulty in having conversation with backseat passengers. This is obviously due the level of ambient noise at cruise. This I attribute to road noise - tires and wind.



My point to this dissertation is that, at least on the first go-round of noise reduction, I think my efforts would be best rewarded by taking care of excessive noise the majority of the time. To that end, it seems like insulating the cab from the beltline down to dampen road noise would be the most beneficial.



To address Tom's question, it doesn't seem to me that any noise comes from the ceiling. I think the truth is that there is too much from other sources to even tell.



I still can't decide which product or combination of products to use. I like the Noise Killer product for its method of application and price and the idea that I could successfully apply it to the oil pan. I'd like to keep materials cost under $200 and hopefully complete the work over a dedicated weekend.



I'm still keenly studying this topic. Thanks for everyone's input.



Regards,

Neil
 
One good reason i can think of for doing the roof is how large it is and how little mass it has. Result. One larger speaker. If you add lots of mass (lead sheets) to stratigic areas i think you could stop it from producing noise. That could be worth some investigation.
 
I haven't gone to the roof yet mostly because I'm not sure that I could get it back up without some appearance problem.



The book shows a transverse channel for support of the outer panel in all models, and what looks to be several support channels for the inner roof panels, again in all models - it's a little difficult to decipher their line drawings. It also shows that the factory specified a pretty large amount of structural adhesive be used to attach individual roof panels to the body/cab cage. In short, there are not large open areas of single layer metal to act as drums.



So after all of that I decided that the roof brings a relatively small amount of noise into the cab, and is fairly well prevented from acting as a resonator. Maybe later.



Cummins plays a symphony, music to the discerning ear, and DC makes it a cacophony, discordant and harsh.
 
I put dynomat on the roof of my truck (to be honest I used a Dynomat clone :) )



I did this quite some time ago before all the noise reduction threads came about. I did it because I remember back in my car stereo days, dynomating the roof made a huge difference in sound quality of high end stereo systems.



I cannot give a deffinitive answer (too long ago) as to how much engine noise was reduced by dynomating the roof, but I can say when sitting in the cab, when the engine off, it did eliminate some of the exterior noises. It helped create a "dead" sound in the cab (with the engine off).



On my regular cab it was not too bad of a project (maybe 1. 5 hours) and I think it was a worth while effort. I would not hesitate to do it over again.
 
Headliner

I have considered insulating the roof, but that big ceiling panel [headliner] really worries me. I too feel that it may be an issue to get it reinstalled without it getting mangled. Especially if I'm working alone.



Ryan [Cooker] has told me it is not an issue, but I'm still hesitant to pull it down. I will try the door panels first. I'm sure I can handle them alone.



I found a source for real heavy-wall 4" OD tubing [ . 100" wall], so I'm going to see if I can reduce some of the exhaust pipe noise next.



Greg L. The Noise Nazi
 
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I've had my head liner out 3 times without any issues. It takes me about 20 minutes tops to get it out. You have to pull one side down first, move the seats all the way forward and the seat back all the way forward.

I think the next time mine comes out I'm going to add some sound proof. Don't think it can hurt...
 
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