Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Southbend clutch hydraulics installed today-What a difference

[ILIANBG]

Just finished the installation of the Southbend's clutch hydraulics.



First of all- the assembly is shorter than OEM, so it can not be installed how the OEM is. I found out that after I routed the hose where the old one (OEM) was. When I went under the truck, I saw that the slave cylinder is way higher and I can not pull it down to connect it. So I routed it pretty much straight down and hooked it up to the clutch housing.



Second- I had trouble getting to the clutch wire connector, and disconnecting it. Tricky little connector



After everything was tightened I took it for a ride. Wow, what a difference!!!

I could not believe. I can now find first, and second and reverse are so much smoother/easier to get to. The whole transmission shifts so much better.

I found out my old assembly has started to leak a little-had oily residue where it enters the cab on the inside and around the wire connectors by the clutch pedal, as well as on the outside. So it was time to replace it. I really started to notice harder shifting about couple weeks ago, so that was maybe the time it went bad.

Well, to summarize, excellent product, would recommend it definately.

It comes time where this replacement becomes necessary. This was my time- near 105000 miles.

So, if any of you, guys, experience harder shifting, with the NV5600, check your hydraulics linkage on the inside and outside-for leak, mine was leaking.

The OEM clutch is ok for now, but soon I will order a new one.

Good luck.

Ilian

 

[randrade]

clutch hydraulics

Mine has been going bad for a while and this weekend it went south pretty quick. I will order one in the am.

Thanks, for the info

 

[ILIANBG]

Please, let me know if I can be of any help.
I think I'm going to order that ConOFE soon Peter said that's the one I will be happy with.

 

[JKinney]

Can you go into detail on the wire plug? How to get it apart?

 

[ILIANBG]

It's a green plug at the end of the hydraulics end going in the cab. This is the clutch release wire-you press the clutch to start the truck. It is connected to a same color green connector. They all seemed as one solid part-I could not tell what part of the whole green thing I was supposed to be separated. So, there is a small red part- it can only go one way- push it and it will go about 1/8 to one side. I thought now I can just pull those apart- but not really Then to separate the two parts I pushed a small flat screwdriver in a small recess at the other end of the connection. It seemed that lifted a small dent/pin that was holding both parts together even though the red part/tooth was released.
Also I had hard time getting to see that green connection-it is behind a steel bracket really tight, and in front of it is a big harness connector-I had to get it moved by releasing a couple of side pins. After doing that I was able to push up the wire and actually see the green connection. I did not know it was so hard to reach. My hydraulics assembly came without any picture, and instructions, only receipt. And it's shorter in total lenght- that I did not know too. I can't believe people say they get this done in 10~15 min.
I don't know if this all makes things easier to understand, I wish I had read something to help me a little at least.

 

[randrade]

got mine in last week, truck shifts sweet now. green connector is in a tight spot, also had a hard time getting the unit to twist into place in the fire wall. Didn't help that it was cold out.
Rafael

 

[ILIANBG]

randrade,
Is the hose coming from the fluid reservoir tightly bent near the firewall? Mine is, but that how the new unit is designed. I want to find out if others who have the SB hydraulics on, have it like that.

 

[JKinney]

I put in a new con ofe 15 months ago, Ive got 102,000 miles truck still shifts good, but im gona order the hydro stuff for south bend...

 

[TboneMan]

This post and the most recent TDR (hard copy) are scaring me.



I've had one hydraulic unit go out on me. That was 125,000 mile ago (the first died at 78,000). Hopefully I can nurse this one along for another month or two. I just put $4,500 into body work (my '01 looks almost new), new headlights and new rear brakes/rotors/calipers, plus a bunch of other PM work. I'm tapped out for a while.



I realize however, that this, possibly the clutch, and VP44 will need replacing sometime before I retire the truck. I had the body work done in hopes of keeping the truck another 4 - 5 years (another 100,000 miles).

 

[TMorgan1]

Ilianbg what did the south bend system cost?

 

[ILIANBG]

Hi. If my memory is correct, it was around $250. I should check to be sure.
It seems my pilot bearing is not good. I have to get it replaced.

 

[DAlford]

I just placed an order for one for the 01. Total damage was $300 shipped without tax (ordered out of state).

My story of needing a new one: I was pulling into the Galleria's (one of Houston's most up-scale shopping areas) parking lot and kinda noticed the clutch felt a little funny; really didn't think much of it and proceeded to park. As I was backing into a spot, I depressed the clutch and nothing happened, pedal went right to the floor with no resistance... it just kept idling backwards {insert cuss words and panic }. Normally this wouldn't be that big of an issue... but when squeezing in between Mercedes and other high-dollar toys, the slip-up factor (of being caught off guard by a now-not-disengaging clutch and a very torquey engine geared down nicely) goes through the roof. I quickly killed the engine, slammed the parking break and sat there for a second to figure out what the hell just happened. With the engine off, I got it out of reverse and started the truck back up. The clutch seemed to regain resistance so I very cautiously continued to park; one hand on the ignition in case of another dead pedal. After checking around with a flashlight under the dash and seeing a little moisture/fluid on the clutch cable/rod going through the firewall, I figured that this was the problem and, ultimately, drove it back home very carefully.

Question to those that have installed one of these SB units: apparently it's adjustable... and if it does not come with instructions (as mentioned in a previous post), how do you adjust it properly?

Thanks!

 

[Bob Cochran]

HHMMM mine came with instructions!

 

[ILIANBG]

You're lucky. Mine came with nothing, maybe they were short of those. So, better be prepared. Mine was also $300, I had to check.
It's adjustable at the end of the threaded rod which attach to the pedal inside the cab. The more you unscrew it, the higher the pedal, and the other way around.
The hardest part for me was disconnecting the electrical harness by the pedal- that took 90% of my time, and not knowing how exactly was that thing supposed to come apart- it drove me nuts. It took me a while trying to figure out. I hope you can get good written instructions. Let us know how it goes.
Ilian

 

[DAlford]

In advance of the part arriving in the mail, I went out yesterday and tackled the electrical connection. You're right, it's pretty tricky. Turns out that the white plastic collar (for lack of a better word; the piece that surrounds the connecting rod from the clutch pedal to through the firewall) that the wires went to was broken free and was free-floating on the shaft. I guess this is way I was able to start the engine without depressing the clutch. Now that the connection is open (just for now... until the SB unit arrives), the engine won't start regardless of if the clutch pedal is down or not.

Now that it's apart, hopefully the rest of the installation goes quicker/smoother.

 

[JSamples]

I hope when I order this it fixes my very hard to shift clutch. It's been getting worse for awhile, after running a double disc for a year I think it's bout done, or I've toasted another clutch. My last single disc (con fe) got hard to shift b4 it went out. I'm on my third set of hydraulics but they've all been warranties so now I guess I'll have to upgrade, I've never liked how hard my double disc has been to shift, but maybe it's been my hydraulics all along, I hope so. Some advice on clutch selection tho, think about what one u need for ur power level, and get the next grade up. I made the mistake and burnt up a con ofe and con fe both in less than a year lol, and that was with less mods than I have now. And if u wanna tow heavy with some good power too, I think double disc is the only way to go. South bend always took care of me but changing 3 clutches in a year is not sumthin I wanna do again. I could burn either of their singles up with a load behind me at will untill I got the double with 3600# plate load. It's a stiff pedal and hard on a left knee but I'll take it over changing clutches every 6 months LOL.