Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Southbend Clutch

[Roger rodbolt]

How did EE get the 2800lb tq rating for there twin disk? [/B][/QUOTE]



JR,

Isn't that 2800lbs a well kept secret, now it's out!! Larry

 

[Sled Puller]

I never heard EE had any tq ratings? If they do, they prolly got the 2800 from ME! LOL!



Although a tq rating makes more sense here than a hp figure.

 

[J.R. Adkins]

Larry,



It must not be because i dont have a Mitchell twin disk.

 

[Pit Bull]

Originally posted by Sled Puller



Although a tq rating makes more sense here than a hp figure.

That is an excellent point. Why do they list these by HP versus torque? It is all about the torque they can handle

 

[KWIKKURT]

Re: 40,000 miles

Originally posted by Vaughn MacKenzie

KWIKKURT, either it's a looooooooonngg ways to church each week, or you guys eat a lot of groceries!



Vaughn

LOL - It's just seems like I always have something to confess!!

 

[Sled Puller]

Must be some type of test bench that can tweak a clutch until it slips, never have seen one, myself. It would be fun to play with.



I know CF insisted three years ago theirs could hold 800ft #. Maybe on the test stand, but not in the real world, that was for sure.

I guess I'll call Peter, we need to talk about my gift certificate, anyway.

 

[Deezul1]

Pit Bull

I have the Con O in mine and at 400HP it doesnt slip but thats higher than its rated for. Don M told me his gave up at about 450HP. This clutch is awsome for driveability, it is softer to push and smoother to engage than the stocker. If you arnt ever going over 375HP I will highly recomend this clutch, you will be very happy with it.

 

[John Berger]

I've got the Con OFE and it is very grabby. The soft pedal offsets that somewhat, but it's kinda like learning how to shift all over again after being used to the stock clutch. By the way, my hard shifting problem seems to be going away. Maybe the clutch was still breaking in.

 

[WadePatton]

TTT

So I popped in a Con OFE as it is rated for 500 or so RWHP. This was when I had 343/799 and the stock clutch just wouldn't hold it (with 79000 miles). Worked great for 6000 miles. Then I added DD3 injectors the other day, which should put me into the low 4's, and the clutch started slipping.



I called Peter. Peter ain't in on Wednesdays. So I worried about having to go to the 13" (which I will do after this one wears out). Then Peter calls me back and I tell him that I've slipped it on levels 4 and 5. He said "drive it" that it should re-seat and be fine.



So I did and just now I came up my test hill on 5x5 in 6th gear, with zero fuel pressure, 36# of boost, and 1400 on the pyro and a GRIN as wide as the TAILGATEcuz it didn't slip one degree!Oo.



Now to address the fuel supply and air thingies. Wildcat fittings in the mail.



Coupla more things in response to posts on this thread: Pedal feels a bit grabby, but I have no problem low-speed backing or easing up smoothly.



And aren't the FE and the FEW two different clutches?



And what's the word on the SBC dual disc? Is that the FEW?

 

[HillCountrykid]

The FEW is pretty much a FE with a modified Centerforce wieghted pressure plate, thus the "W". The faster the pressure plate spins, the further the weights travel down the release fingers, and more clamping force is applied.



Brian

 

[Loren]

Originally posted by LWINGATE

How many miles did you guys get on your original clutch before you figured that it was time to replace it?

Larry,



I have a six-speed with TST injectors (installed at 22,000 miles) and a Power Edge Comp box (installed at 44,700 miles). The truck now has 63,500 miles on the original clutch.



I run the Comp box on level 1 except when towing. Then I switch to level 3. If I run on levels 4 or 5, the EGT gets closer to the red line than I like to see.



After installing the Comp box, I was running some 0-60 tests, and could smell the clutch after about a dozen runs. Since then I have treated my clutch with respect, and in return it hasn't failed yet. When it does, I'll be driving (or towing) to South Bend for a new one.



Loren

 

[mgoncalves]

I also seem to be getting away with using the stock clutch. 100 hp injectors and a comp and I can't slip it yet .



When it does, a South Bend is definetly the replacement.



Matt

 

[BLandau]

I think my clutch is on its way out at 55K miles. The truck will not start moving until I have almost reached the top of the stroke on the pedal. Once moving she started to slip when going up hills.



I need to make a decision as to which clutch to install. I have not been doing much towing (so far) and I don’t plan to go crazy with horsepower modifications. To date I have priced three clutches:



1. Stock LUK clutch from Dial-A-Clutch in Florida -- $336

2. Modified LUK clutch with Kevlar linings from Dial-a-clutch -- $536

3. MU 1947 CON. O rated for 350 hp from South Bend Clutch -- $700





Does anyone have any recommendations for the best one to buy?



Brent

 

[WadePatton]

Southbend!!!

Hey Brent, come on out sometime and you can drive my SBC. NO WAY would I put OEM back in. And check around for price "specials". WildcatDiesel is where I got mine.



Check out the "members rigs spotted" TN thread for local I TRIED TO BY-PASS THE CUSSING FILTER chat.



Don't worry you'll BOMB it eventually.

 

[CFAR]

After a month with just III's mine started to slip, not bad, I drove it that way for 5000 miles, it would only slip at low rpm. Then I got the FE, while waiting to put it in I hooked up the comp as and EZ. Big difference I could slip the clutch at 80mph. Never slipped the FE. Its a little grabby when starting out.

 

[BLandau]

WadePatton,



I have just about talked myself into the SBC. I have been calling around for pricing. Hopefully I will get the thing ordered tomorrow.



We will have to get together sometime.



Brent