SPA Boost Problem - Please Help!!!

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OK - I got everything installed today. Turned the unit on - faults on both EGT and Boost. Went through menu and fixed EGT (had to set-up for thermocouple). Cannot find a problem with the Boost fault - checked the connection, pin alignment per diagram, tightened it down with the included bolt, etc. I give up! #ad


I did cut the boost cable and then spliced it back together (with crimp connections) - I had to do this because the connector plug for the pressure sensor is HUGE. I couldn't get it through the clutch grommet if I had to (I have an automatic). Is this a problem? If so, I'm not sure what to do next.

Thanks in advance for any help guys!

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1999 2500 QC 4X4 LB Auto 4. 10LS, Driftwood, CD player with Steering Wheel Controls, Power Driver's Seat, 275HP Injectors, PowerEdge, Bill K's Valve Body, ISSPRO Boost and EGT, K&N Air Filter, Brushguard, Spray-in Liner, 285/75R16 BFG AT KO's, Nerf Bars, Black Diamond Plate Deep Well Tool Box, Mopar flat antispray guards (front and back)
Soon to have: Bill K's TC when available
2000 Yamaha Big Bear 400 4X4
NRA Member

 

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Bryan beat me to it,but I was going to suggest a poor ground due to teflon tape. You're better off useing an antiseize that contains copper or aluminum.

 

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Thanks guys!

I was driving down the road earlier (to go buy me another gun!), and thought about that myself. I did use teflon tape, and remembered it talking about connecting to ground in the instructions. I'll try it when it cools off.

 

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OK - that didn't work. Removed all teflon tape - still have fault. I'm going to try the external ground wire and see if that works tomorrow. Any other ideas?

 

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Tx,about the only other thing besides a defective gauge would be having the lighting and the hot wires reversed. try it with the lights on and the dimmers turned all the way up.

 

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As an FYI, you could have disassembled the boost connector instead of cutting the wire. I did it (at Evan's recommendation) and it worked well. I also used teflon tape on the pressure sensor. Since the wires are color coded, (and assuming you aren't color blind!) I'd guess all the wires are hooked up properly. Did you set the boost reading to the correct BAR in the menu? I beleive it should be set to 16BAR if memory serves me. Otherwise, I'd guess the guage or sensor are bad.

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'01 2500 SLT+, QC, LWB, 4X4, 3. 54s, AT, SPA guages, Alpha Liner, Stolen Silencer ring, every option but running lights! To come: DD Stage II's PE or DD Boost Module, Exhaust brake, 4" turbo to tail, etc...

'98 DUCATI ST2 "Bombed" 944CC with Ducati Performance Carbon Fiber Exhaust, F. I. M. Chip, K&N and "modified" air box.

 

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Hey,
I see some ordering the 111 vs the 106 spa gauge. What is the difference??

 

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I e-mailed Ron last night at about 9:30 - got a return e-mail at about 9:40. Great support!!! I'll call him today.

David, it is the same gauge except that it reads EGT instead of Temp.

 

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Just wondering, How much does the EGT/boost combo SPA gauge cost? What about EGT/transmission temp?

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2001 6-speed 4*4 Quad dually. Diesel Dynamic Injectors, 14cm housing 4in exhaust. Jacobs brake.

 

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TXRam,

It is possible to plug the boost sensor plug in wrong even though one spade is slightly larger than the others. I accidently did this while installing mine and got a fault in the gauge. The larger spade is just barely bigger and will fit the other holes, got mine turned one hole off.

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2001 black dually,4x4, 6 speed H. O. ,loaded up. Jacobs E brake, lighted running boards, toolbox, solor visor, mag hytec cover, rhino lined, diamond tread rail protectors, mud flaps with genos chrome plates, megs exhaust tip, SPA digital pillar mounted pyro, boost,fuel press & oil temp gauges, rerouted blowby bottle, torklift class 5 double tube extension hitch and frame mount camper anchors... Its not a hobby anymore, its an addiction!

 

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SPA told me the "FL" code meant one thing - an open circuit (a. k. a. , loose connection) in the wiring. Mine has been at the connection to the pressure sensor. If I pull the connector off, bend the plug connectors slightly by pressing with a small screwdriver, and then slide the plug back on, everything works - for about a day.
Today, I tried something new - smeared dielectric grease on the connectors(buy it at AutoZone or similar automotive parts stores). So far, the boost is behaving much better than I have ever seen - no more random numbers, peaking out at close to expected values (not reading 46 psi on my stock ETH, for example), and no more numbers like -20#. I'll check back in a day or two if things are still working like they should.

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2001 ETH, QC, LWB, 4WD, 3. 54, SPA Pyro & Boost, Leer Cab-high shell, Rear ARB locker, Psychotty Air

 

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The SPA's are more expensive than some others, but they're the nicest combo gauges that I have seen. They're also definitely more accurate than the Isspro's that I had - this morning EGT was reading 95F when I got in the truck (FYI it was in the low 80F's outside), the Isspro's read less than 50F in the mornings. I wish I could check the accuracy at 1200F. The backlight is a little bright, so I'm going to experiment with some window tint, etc. to tame it down.

I called Ron yesterday and discussed orientation of the plug. I have it plugged in per the manual - large spade on same side of plug as where the wiring exits the plug. Ron said they changed sensors and now the plug should go the opposite way. I haven't had time to change it yet - will do that tonight.

My plug had a machine screw that went through the plug into the sensor to hold it in place.

 

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Finished installing my SPA combo gauge and wiring. When installing the temp. probe in the 1/8" port of the Pacbrake elbo... . don't put it in more than 3/16" as it will(and did) keep the brake flapper from closing. I removed the sensor from there and will try it in the 3/8" port all as post turbo. If that doesn't work, it is drill and tap time in the manifold. My son did that yesterday on his 01 and had no problem.
After taking out the tempo. probe and leaving it hang, as time ran out last night, the boost started the FL --- 00 flashing thing. Never touched that when removing the temp. probe. ??????
That whole system is nice but is more fussy than my wife. Also the backlite, at night is too bright.
Today will be spent reinstalling the probe, setting up the program and NOT fishing... . damn.

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1998. 5; 24v,3500,4x4,SLT,QC,5 spd,3. 54LS, 4 whl. antilock, all options available when ordered, 18k lb. Reese full tilt 5th whl. hitch, oem full length diamond plate running boards, eyebrows & hood dam, bed edges,bedhooks plus Rhinohide liner, Pacbrake, britebox,"deepdish"mats, matching topper shell, Sandstone(looks gray to me) & camel leather, stainless fender eyebrows, chrome(and road tar) exhaust turndown pipe.
brush guard, SPA digital boost/egt gauge and pillar mount.
Lowered rear end 4" to set truck level.
See My Truck

1980, W200, regular 4 door crewcab, 360 gas, auto, 68k original miles, 4 coats of Zeebart but losing ground to the saltwater anyway.

 

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Later in the day... ... ... I finally bit the bullet and drilled a hole in the engine of my $41k truck(manifold). It was a piece of cake. Installed the therm. in the hole. Removed & reconnected the boost connector.
All is well again in TDR land. Everything works perfectly including the PacBrake.
At idle: boost = 0; temp = 300(brake off) & 474(brake on). Pedal to the metal: max. boost = 19 & temp reached 1090 F(pre-turbo). My sons truck(01) does almost exactly the same. Must be right.
Hope it continues working. The backlite is still tooo brite at night.

 

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TXram,
Are you saying the faceplate says EGT and the guts and programming are the same or is it more to it than that??

I have several other high temp gauges, if I ever have time I will try to test the top end calibration on the SPA against them.

 

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David, the boost/etg gauge I have the faceplate say boost and etg. I think everything else as far as the guts would be the same, but not for sure.

Steve

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Y2K 3500 SLT+,4x2,Black/Camel,leather,LSD,Auto,3. 55,towing,rhino-liner,eagle series 58 alum wheels,JRE 4" exhaust,VA CPC,SPA gauges,Mag-Hytec Trans Cover

98 20. 1'Viper Coral/200 Merc EFI

 

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David,

I believe Steve is correct - just the faceplate change.

Turning the plug around 180 degrees (from what the diagram in the instructions show) fixed my problem - boost reading fine now.

I agree with Jack - the backlight is too bright.

 

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Had to check new signature!

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1999 2500 QC 4X4 LB Auto 4. 10LS, Driftwood, CD player with Steering Wheel Controls, Power Driver's Seat, 275HP Injectors, PowerEdge, Bill K's Valve Body, SPA Boost and EGT, K&N Air Filter, Brushguard, Spray-in Liner, 285/75R16 BFG AT KO's, Nerf Bars, Black Diamond Plate Deep Well Tool Box, Mopar flat antispray guards (front and back)
Soon to have: Bill K's TC when available
2000 Yamaha Big Bear 400 4X4
NRA Member

 

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SPA Next day... ... . boost again flashing FL-01. Damn that is irritating. Took plug off again, slightly twisted blades on boost sensor and reinstalled. Works OK again.
Will try dielectric grease when I find some. I did originally use silicone in the connector to prevent moisture problems. This is commonly used in oilwell downhole electronic tools with excellent results and should work in "The Dodge".
Anyone else having this much problem with that particular connection?

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1998. 5; 24v,3500,4x4,SLT,QC,5 spd,3. 54LS, 4 whl. antilock, all options available when ordered, 18k lb. Reese full tilt 5th whl. hitch, oem full length diamond plate running boards, eyebrows & hood dam, bed edges,bedhooks plus Rhinohide liner, Pacbrake, britebox,"deepdish"mats, matching topper shell, Sandstone(looks gray to me) & camel leather, stainless fender eyebrows, chrome(and road tar) exhaust turndown pipe.
brush guard, SPA digital boost/egt(pre-turbo) gauge and pillar mount.
Lowered rear end 4" to set truck level.
See My Truck

1980, W200 Powerwagon, regular 4 door crewcab, 360 gas, auto, 68k original miles, 4 coats of Zeebart but losing ground to the saltwater anyway.
<A HREF="http://www.geocities.com/jr_fish_head/Orange_truck.jpg" TARGET=_blank>
The Powerwagon </A>
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My Boat </A>