Spanked Bigfoot Jack

[Mike Ellis]

Boy I am an unhappy camper today, I am on vacation in Colorado Springs and along the way in Dalhart as we pulled out of a gas station my passenger side rear Happijack fell off.



Know I didn't drag it because other family members were behind me in another vehicle and saw it happen. After retrieving the jack from the road, it didn't appear to be damaged - but I was to see that the screws holding it in had stripped right out of the support, and even more maddening, the threads were filled with what looked like chipboard or OSB!



Are the Bigfoot structural members really made of such wimpy materials? These things are nearly $30K new, surely it can't save that much money to use cheese board. Arggh.



Any of you guys ever had one of the Happijacks come off a corner like that? Is it something that can actually be repaired? I looked in the holes and could not detect any obvious rotted wood or water damage so I am



Actually taking the camper to Camping Country RV this week to have some other things spiffed up in prep for new decals and such, however I want to be sure the jack is not "Band-Aided" and have to worry about it coming off down the road.



Any info greatly appreciated!

 

[DPelletier]

Sorry to hear of your troubles Mike. Something sounds fishy. I took my truck&camper on some roads I shouldn/t have in Baha and despite a pounding that literally melted my RS9000's, the camper came through relatively unscathed. In fact, the front jack bracket developed a crack from the constant washboard (the newer brackets have gussets to prevent) and when I went to remove the bracket I couldn't get it off. After much prying and cursing, I got the bracket off along with a healthy chunk of Gelcoat. Whatever advesive they used, it was way too strong. It didnt need screws at all! I broke a ratchet strap trying to pull it off. Anyway, after having the Gelcoat repaired and procuring the newer updated brackets, I screwed them back on using the same size stainless screws and managed to get good torque on all the screws except one (out of about 16 per side). I just used silicone this time in case I ever want to take them off again. So, a couple of comments;



1) Maybe your camper was previously repaired? I've never heard of Bigfoot having any problems of this nature. My buddy has a 1995 3000 that has seen really bad roads w. no problems at all. He just had his brackets off to repaint and had no issues with soft backing.



2) for peace of mind, you may want to consider using a high strengh adhesive in addition to the screws. If done properly, the screws are only needed to hold the thing on whilst the adhesive cures!



Anyway, hope this helps.

Dave

 

[Boomer II]

I haven't heard of any problems either, but would like to hear how all this works out.

 

[dresslered]

This is a new one to me too!? Could it be during the installation, somebody had originally drilled the wrong sized holes? I was under the impression that these holes went directly into the aluminum frame.

 

[Mike Ellis]

More information on the jack spankage. I spoke with the reps at Bigfoot, and learned that the 2500 series campers have a 1. 5" thick plywood strip about 5" wide that runs vertically where the rear jacks are attached. In the event the holes are stripped out, as would happen in an impact, there is room to shift the mounting location vertically or horizontally and drill new holes.



I took the camper to the guys at Camping Country in Colorado Springs, and their tech looked at the jack and holes and said it had been hit on the jack "foot" at some point and levered outward, not an uncommon event for campers with the electric jacks - either during backing near a curb, or from someone rear ending the vehicle. In any event they thought it would be easy to repair.



The material I thought to be particle board was in fact flakes of the plywood that were carried out with the screws due to being imbedded in a strong adhesive - Liquid Nails type - that the previous owner had used to bandaid the jack back on.



Thanks for the responses guys, I will post results of the fix after I pick the camper up again.

 

[Boomer II]

Nice of the previous owner to pass along that little surprise.

 

[DPelletier]

Thanks for the update, Mike. Bigfoot had insisted that they didn't use any wood except plywood, so I was surprised to hear your original problem. Makes sense now. Dave, your 3000 series is built a little differently with the fibrewall construction. The aluminum frame used to be optional on the 3000 series. Is it still an option, or have they dropped the plywood fiberwall frame? Just curious. Anyway Mike, keep us posted.

Thanks

Dave

 

[Mike Ellis]

I am back home in Texas. The jack bracket was reattached with no problems, the tech moved it up/over a bit, hard to tell there was ever a problem. However, my Happijack bit the dust - road impact broke the shaft and one of the wires was broken so had to have the motor head replaced. Everything else on the rig checked out A-OK so I was pleased.



Interesting note: While I was at Camping Country, I asked them about the recommended method of supporting the camper when it is off the truck, since the owner's manual says the entire bottom must be supported to avoid damage. They told me that for the 2500 series, no such support was needed or recommended, just lower the unit as far as possible on the jacks and you are in business. I questioned this, since the owner's manual clearly said to use a support, but they told me that statement was put in because they were producing a less sturdy line of campers at the time (the 2000s?) and had only one manual.



They told me there was no "support the bottom" blurb in the newer owner's manuals for the 2500 series, and that the 2500's basic construction has not changed for for many years. Looking around the lot, they didn't have a single camper supported on the bottom, they were all standing on their jacks but lowered as to within 5" or so of the ground.



What's the poop? Those of you with newer Bigfoots, does your manual tell you the bottom must be supported when off the truck? (For longterm storage it makes sense, but if it needs to be supported when taking it camping and dropping it off truck for a few days, this is a big drawback. )

 

[Boomer II]

That's what they told be too, but I sit mine on 2X10's on cinder blocks with some weight on the jacks.

Here's what my 02 book says: Camper jacks are designed for loading and unloading the camper only. The main floor must be supported when the unit is being used and is not resting on the truck bed. Failure to comply could result in undue stress and structural damage. Note: When storing the camper while out of the truck bed for an extended period of time it is recommended that the entire bottom of the unit be supported.

Hmm, maybe I'll run some plywood between my stands for good measure.

 

[Mike Ellis]

Boomer II,



That is pretty much identical to the wording in my '97 manual too. Hmmm, you would think the dealers would know this stuff upside down and backward.



I put mine on cinder blocks with a 3/4" thick sheet of pressure treated plywood on top, what a pain in the butt to lug that stuff into place - especially with unlevel ground. I don't mind doing it for extended storage, but it is plumb unreasonable to have to lug that kind of stuff along for a few days at the lake. Would have to pull a trailer behind the camper to carry all the stuff.



What do you guys do to support yours if you take it off for a few days? I suspect most people just leave it on the truck.



Mike





PS - Any clever way of loading the camper with spacers or such to avoid having the truck's rear bumper interfere with the holding tank drain fixture? Maybe an aftermarket bumper that is "thinner" front to back?

 

[DPelletier]

Mike,

I don't take mine off the truck while camping (in fact, I remove my rear jacks before I leave), but have a couple of thoughts on the matter;

- I think that the " full support" recommendation is just to protect themselves and is overkill for anything except long term storage. I believe the Bigfoots (Bigfeet?) to be as structurally sound as anything else out there.

- Despite this, I think it is a bad idea to camp with only the jacks for support. Even if you don't need floor support, walking around, etc. could put torsional stresses on the brackets that just can't be great for it.

- If I decide to camp with the camper off the truck, I'm going to use two aluminum "painters ladders" that I have. They are approximately 3' wide and 24 or 30" tall. Then I'll pack two 2x6's or 2x8's that are 50" wide to put on top. The whole setup won't weigh much and the aluminum ladders can travel inside the camper and the wood in the storage compartment. I'd place the front one right at the front and the rear at the forward part where the camper flares out on the bottom. Then I'll put a hair of pressure on the jacks just for additional stability. It will still take a bit of doing to get the whole thing level, but I generally pack a shovel and a few pieces of wood in varying thicknesses. I find it a pain to lower the camper all the way to the ground.



Just my opinion, I'm no expert!

Dave

 

[DPelletier]

Oh, I forgot to comment on your plumbing clearance. I take it that you have a 1997 2500 series. Is it a 10. 5 or a 9. 5? I have no problems with my 1996 9. 5 on a 2001. 5 with the stock bumper. I would have thought that a 10. 5 would have even more clearance. I'll check with my buddy who has a 1997 2500 10. 5 on a 1997 dodge cummins dually. ( I now have convinced two of my camping buds to buy cummins and five of us have Bigfoots! )

Dave

 

[Mike Ellis]

Dave,



My truck is a 3500, 2wd. I will take a picture of the drain spout and try to post it later so you can see what I mean. I like the ladder and boards idea, in fact I read that another guy uses a similar setup with boards and some small scissor jacks that he got at Camping World.



I forgot to post about my experience with the Rancho shocks. My truck had the original factory shocks still on it at 96K miles :--) so the ride wasn't great pre-Rancho. I put the rear Rancho 9000s at "9" and the front ones at "5", and to my surprise it bounced and porpoised more than it did with the worn out stock shocks. I will have to experiment with the settings I guess. Ranchos did seem to help with the bigger ruts and stuff compared to the stock shocks. Overall the truck is surprisingly stable with the camper on. Could use more power to get over the infamous 3rd-4th gear "hole", so BOMBing is in order. I am 98K now so the engine should be just about broken in and ready for BOMBing...



Noticed on this trip that my overloads don't contact the frame "evenly", on both driver and passenger side it appears that the front pad will contact several inches before the rear pad. Do you have overloads (camper package) on your truck? Just wondering if this is normal, or if my spring pack is shifted or something.

 

[DPelletier]

Mike,



I have the 9000x's on the rear (set on 9 for the camper) and the 5000's on the front. Reason being, I was told the 5000's were basically the same shock minus the adjustment. 5000's are equivalent to level 5 on the 9000's and the front axle of my truck varies by only 200 lbs whether the camper is on or off. Works great. My truck, being a 4x4, doesn't porpoise at all. Maybe being a quad cab lwb helps? I was more concerned with sway control than ride. Your dually must be great for sway. As far as the springs go, though, it is normal for the overloads to contact the front first. Check your overloads when you have the camper on. Mine weren't even touching. I found that when I hauled the camper and trailer, the sway was less. Turns out the overloads were finally engaging with the extra tongue weight. I had a local spring shop remove my factory overloads and replace them with a custom 5 leaf overload set up that engages much sooner. Rides like its on rails now! Better than my buddies K3500 chevy dually with air bags and a 3000 series BF! As the overloads don't engage empty, they don't affect the unloaded ride at all. My set up isn't perfect though, if you spent time partially loaded (overloads just shy of engaging) they would probably suck. I am either fully loaded or empty 98 percent of the time.

Hope this helps

Cheers

Dave

 

[Mike Ellis]

Dave,



I like the idea with the different spring pack, in fact when I had a new ball joint put on my truck a few months back the spring shop guy recommended putting different springs on the overloads, he said the factory overloads were pretty worthless.



All in all I am pleased with the way the truck handles, just need a bit of fine tuning and a bit more power. I had no trouble with any of the mountain grades keeping the posted speed, however the noticeable 3rd-4th gear hole requires more power to fill. Sway isn't a problem at all, the dually tires and factory swaybar keep things pointed where they should be.



I do get a bit of alignment change or something when the camper is on the truck, the truck pulls to the left and is pretty sensitive to crosswinds. Seems kind of strange, but not a big problem. I am used to the wallowing Dodge steering by now so a bit of extra wrestling doesn't faze me much.

 

[DPelletier]

Mike,

The springs are great. I struggled with the air bags vs. new overload question, but I am happy I went this route. Cost was reasonable ( $450. 00 Canadian Pesos!) about the same or a little less than air bags. I lost the adjustability, but gained in stability and sway control IMO. Ajustabililty just wasn't a big factor for me as I know pretty much what my loaded weights are. Not for everyone for sure, but worth considering, I think.

When I said that my overloads didn't touch with my camper on, I meant that the front touched, but the rear didn't. Unless both ends of the spring are touching the stops, their not doing anything.

I have the same power issue now . We have a huge long hill out of town that drags me down to about 45 - 50 mph with the camper and the cargo trailer, motorcycles, gear, wife, kids, dog, etc. I want to increase the power, not go wild. Maybe 300 - 350 hp and 600 - 700 ft lbs. I should have bought a manual trans. , now I need to spend a few dollars on the auto first. Then maybe DDII's and a comp or something. We'll see.

Happy Camping.

Dave



ps. Are you retired or just work in front of a computer, like me! ?

 

[Mike Ellis]

I am going to go the spring route too, I am not sold on the airbag concept at this point.



I have heard from several people that the "magic point" for torque is 600 ft-lb, at this level the CTDs can really pull without having huge EGT problems. I will probably therefore go with the 230/605 plate, but I am afraid BOMBitis will make that plate need injectors, which will need a new turbo, etc etc etc



PS - I am not retired, just got back from vacation yesterday and took an additional 2 days to decompress from the travel and relax a bit. Normally check TDR once every evening or so...

 

[DPelletier]

Mike,

Yeah, airbags are great if your primary concern is adjustability. Good ride too, but there is a reason that motorhomes don't come with air bags. The load is constant. If I get my hands on a digital camera, I'll try to take a picture of mine.

Thanks for the info for the future bombs. It probably makes much more sense to talk torque, not horsepower as the 12V just don't rev quite as high as a 24V. I'll try a combo that should net me about 600 ft lbs. Should be a noticeable improvement over my stock 460 ft lbs. Just have to try to figure out a way to sneak it by the wifey! Hope you had a good trip and its been great chatting with you.



ps. I would try your front shocks on 6 or 7 and I bet the porpoising goes away.



Dave