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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Special Tools Needed for Swapping Cams & Valve Springs

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) looking at a 95

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Hey guys - could someone give me a list of all the special tools that are needed or helpful in swapping the cam and valve springs on the 24V? I'd like to know anything needed other than your basic wrenches and sockets.



I'm kind of going into this project blind so any tools that helped you along the way are appreciated. I already know that I'll need the valve spring compressor (Lisle 16570) and will need to make the dowel rods to support the lifters.



Does anyone have a picture of what modifications need to be made to the end of each dowel rod? I really have no idea exactly what type of slit and taper needs to be done.



Am I correct in assuming that the lifter still has a chance of dropping into the pan when using the dowel rods? Or is there no chance that they could "slip off" the end of the rod? It seems like it would be a pretty delicate process as far as making sure they are seated on the dowel.



Thanks for all the help! My Helix 2 is going to be ordered tomorrow! Oo.
 
HeavyHauler said:
Does anyone have a picture of what modifications need to be made to the end of each dowel rod? I really have no idea exactly what type of slit and taper needs to be done.



Think of one of the old "Tinkertoys"; the colored wood dowels of varied lengths and the wooded wheels with holes in them. Make the dowel rods look like the end of the tinertoys. And maybe round off the sharp edge so they slip into the tappet more easily.



I bought a single tappet from Cummins ($8) so I could test fit the dowel and see up close what was actually going on. And now I have a cool paperweight for my desk.
 
PC12Driver said:
I bought a single tappet from Cummins ($8) so I could test fit the dowel and see up close what was actually going on. And now I have a cool paperweight for my desk.



That's an excellent idea - I will definitely do that. Thanks!
 
ill talk to my buddy FUL POWER, we just put a cam in his truck, dowel rods worked great. i know he has picture, maybe he can post some for you to see
 
Got Smoke? said:
Hans why don't you give Meacham & Corn a call? They've done a cam swap on a 24V recently..... The Beast :-laf



I'll probably end up doing that ultimately - it's always good to get more than one opinion though. Plus I hate bothering Meacham during the day, especially when I won't be hiring him to do this job for me.



It's easier for me to have something written in front of me than trying to remember everything he told me over the phone. :eek:



Mark you found out my surprise early - I was going to let the cat out of the bag to the Mid-Tenn guys tomorrow. :D
 
Use telescoping magnets to hold the tappets up while pulling the cam, less mess and NO worries of wood particles left behind :-laf . Use rubber bands around them just like you would the dowel rods. I was trying to think of an easier way to hold them up when the thought of using magnets and then i tried one of my telescoping magnets and it worked perfect ;) , went to the store, bought 12 of them for 2. 99 :D .

I am in the process of repairing my KDP :{ "KILLER" that came out and busted the gear housing on my 97 stocker. Didn't even get past the 30 day tag before it happened. Good luck !!
 
HeavyHauler said:
Plus I hate bothering Meacham during the day, especially when I won't be hiring him to do this job for me.



If you only knew... . :-laf



If he doesn't answer his cell (free Verizon to Verizon ;) ) then I call the shop! :-laf
 
Beleive it or not, but of all places a Meijer store :rolleyes: ?? The only place that had more then just a couple. Not sure if you have any in your area.
 
I recently put a new cam from piers in my truck. It was a task. I have some pics I will try to post. Things we got from the local hardware store that we used were some regular nylon string like you would use to pull a string line and I believe it was 3/8 wooden dowel rod, I could be mistaken that we cut into 12" lengths and 1 peice of 2" length, I will try to get a deffinite answer for you on the exact diameter.



Another life saver is to cut some 1 1/2" conduit or fence post thin guage pipe in half length wise just a hair bit longer than the cam itself and put it in the cam galley why running the tappets through, if you drop one of those puppies into the pan you have easily doubled the job, be careful of that.



The magnet thing is deffinitely a good idea if not 12 at least 1 for assistance they are life savers sometimes.



I will try to send the pics, good luck,
 
I guess the pics worked, notice the bottom pic, right hand corner on the frame of the truck, telescoping magnet, we did have to fish out one tappet from the front of the pan luckily it was the front and not the rear be careful of this. It was last one, dont get cocky, If you drop the tappet in the pan you have to lift the motor and remove the pan, thank goodness for the magnet!



The first pic is just to show the pipe we cut to use as a safety net so to speak, its just a piece of 1 1/2" conduit we had laying around and cut with a band saw right down the middle.



The middle pic is when we finished with the tappet install, we used zip ties instead of rubber bands as you see here both will work its just what you have the most of.



The last pic is us going fishing. we used wire to fishe the string through the tappet hole first and then pulled the string etc. I am sure yall get the picture.



Hope this helps in your adventure :D
 
Excellent pics - thanks very much. So I guess the piece of conduit isn't necessary if I'm not replacing the tappets, right?



Swapping tappets isn't necessary with this cam so it sounds like this job just got a little easier.



We're there any other special tools that you remember using while swapping the cam?



Thanks for the help.
 
Not that I remeber but that has been a couple of months now and I have not really played with the truck since I installed all the new goodies. I had to go back to work and couldnt take the truck.



It will make it alot easier without the tappet exchange, good luck and have fun!
 
to further elaberate on Wyatt 1's pics. The dowels 12 of them the diameter of the pushrods or miller tool 8502 for the back two cylinders, have to be cut about 2 inches longer than the length of the push rods the rest four inches longer. you also need a small plug with a string tied to it for inserting the tappets. also all the dowels need to have a thin slot cut into them to squeeze them into the tappets and hold good (hacksaw blade works good for this). if you are not replacing the tappets you just need to hold them in place while you take the cam out. another trick is to use hose clamps to hold them up through the side cover.



If you are replacing them, once you get each new tappet fished in place with the string and plug you rotate the tool (or conduit) 180 to then hold it in place while you insert the dowel back into it, & tie it up. repeat this for each tappet. again you can hose clamp them.



then you take the tool out and insert the camshaft. make real certain not to nick the bearing surfaces while doing all this. Also use assembly lube on everything.
 
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