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specifics of purging?

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2nd Gen compatibility in 1st Gen trucks

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Will one of you kind sirs point me to the correct release valve on the injector pump to begin purging the air out of the lines. (I'll be honest. I haven't looked yet, it got to dark. )



Is it necessary to pull the lines off each injector too or will the return fuel line resolve the problem for me. I've read talk of doing it both ways.



I got to try my hand at welding for the second time in a week. I've really got to convince my wife that a TIG welder is a must have tool. The plate that the steering box had a broken corner. Made for some loose steering.
 
purging the pump

You simply loosen the nut at the injector. Yes, it is messy but you can clean that up. If you like, you can place a cloth over the injector to catch what skeets up by the nut. Get yourself some info on the pump and study how the system works and you will see that there is no way to have a release valve on the high pressure lines. The return fuel lines only channel the fuel that bypasses the injectors back to the low pressure side.



There is a bleed screw on the side of the head near the fuel filter that purges air from the low pressure side of the system.



On the welder, everyone would benefit from that equipment and that skill. I have TIG but have MIG and stick equipment also. Unless you do a good bit of aluminum, you will get more bang for you buck with MIG. Prep you welds and you will get similar result with MIG as TIG. Been welding for forty years. Fact, I make a good part of my income with a welded item. Find yourself a nice medium size lathe to go with your welder/s and you will find thousands of thing you can fix.



James
 
Thanks!



I've got the Bosch VE manual which I've read backwards and forwards but the pictures tend to be out of context and the descriptions aren't enough to jump to the right part.
 
You can purge fairly easily by doing the purge "bolt" on the side of the head first... (It has a fuel line from the filter and going to the pump)

Second, do as suggested above, loosen lines 1, 3, 5 and crank. Do this with a cool engine and keep rags handy. Once you get good "blasts" of fuel from those lines, tighten them up and start the truck. She should clear up the rest of any left over air all it's own.

Once it's running smothly, shut down, spray brake clean and use compressed air to blow away any left over fuel/dirt etc.

Remember, just a slight loosening of the injector nut is needed, not a full turn...



pb.
 
Boss and I nearly came to blows this week for the same thing on a 4B power unit. he spent an hour trying to get it to run; I got it running smoothly inside of 10min. :-laf



I would recommned loosening 4 or 5 lines (keep #6 tight, as you'll get fuel on the windshield)- about a 1/4-1/3 turn, no more. Too much opening, and you will let air in again.



10 mm for the bleeder screw out of the fuel filter; 17mm for injector lines. Engine is metric; truck is SAE.



Daniel
 
Thanks for all the help. I had to put the project away for a week or so while I travel and relax. I'll take the suggestions and use them wisely.



I'll get right on the signature repair...





John
 
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