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Speedy sleeve

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My buddy has a first gen with some leaking axle issues. It's a 1993 with the dana 70 rear end. Based on the seal we've concluded that it's a light duty dana 70. We've had them apart three times trying to fix the leaks and we've resolved that the speedy sleeve would be the best fix? We've done several part searches around the area, but I was hoping to pick up some actual part numbers before we drive into town to get them.



Thanks, JAC
 
I am not sure whether the drum on the 93 is the same as on my 92. The drum on my 92 has an oil slinger which diverts any contaminats from hitting the shoes, so unless you clean all of the crud out it may appear as if you still have a leak. Just a thought!

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Al
 
:p This may be a little long, but here goes. Speedy seal made by CR 99287 and thats in the limits of 2. 873-2. 879. Cost 24. 00 Be sure to use either loctite or sleeve cement between the sleeve and axle. Take the new sleeve to a hardware store and get a piece abs plastic to fit up against the lip and put a cap on end to tap the abs plastic pipe. . You will find that the sleeve extends out about 1\4" past the axle boss. Tape with electrical tape round and round at least 2 times and cut off excess with a small dremel cutting wheel. Smooth edge with some emery cloth. I use some vaseline on the new wheel seal to install. If you don't like the hoky locking nut with stake pin to set preload system, e-mail me and i'll give you the spicer nut and locktab numbers so you can convert it. Some of my methods are from the fifties and sixties, but I yam what I yam. Be sure and super clean all the oil off the drums or they may make you think that there is a problem later on. Sorry this is so long. Tim :) :) :)
 
Here's my shot

I went to my local NAPA store and they needed me to measure with a micrometer what my axle dia. actually was. They said that they could not do it by application. Now, since I don't have a mic. or access to one I came up with plan B. AKA the cheesy fix. previous seals had worn a smaller dia. groove where they line up when seated fully in the hub. I did not seat mine completely. My assumption is that this seal now is riding on a different part of the axle housing that is larger, soo it will be able to contain oil better. Did it work for me? After 2wks. I have not seen leaking. I just went out and looked, haven't pulled a drum though. I came within a 1/16 to 1/8 of seating them. I tried to make them as even as possible not to wobble. I also checked as best I could to see where they would ride before I committed. Time will tell.

Good luck with yours.

Art



PS Check this for NAPA locknut and part #'s

http://home.earthlink.net/~sweeten1/1992_trucks.htmSweeten's page
 
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Napa seals are junk, that is my experience. I've never had any of them last and I have found them to be defective, right in the box. I only use CR seals, unless not available at the time. I have a speedy sleeve on my right rear, have had since march of 95, this area was damaged during a thief.

I have 56,000 miles on the CR seals, that are on my truck at the present time.

Like mentioned above, be sure to clean your brake drum real good or you will think you have a leak.



Rodney
 
Thanks!

Just a quick thanks to you all. We haven't tackled the project yet since we spent the better part of three days adding 2 to 3 layers of B-Quiet, a new seat (40/20/40 with dead cow covering!), and a new radio.



Guess I'll head down next week and help him out with the new sleeve.



Thanks again,



JAC
 
I'll add to this concern for my 1st Gen "brothers:

If you decide to use the repair sleeve follow the instructions and CLEAN the spindle and locktite before installation.

Clean the drum and lube the seal with grease before the slide on install.

Check the cleaned drum and hub for cracks (oil seepage path) before install.

Tighten the spindle nut to the proper torque to prevent excess "float" at assembly.

Too loose axle nut floats have probably caused more seal failures than any seal defects.

Drive on 1st Gens!

Frank
 
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