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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Spicer Ball joints good or junk???

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) just lost turbo help

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I just put on a new set of tires ( actually they are 1200 mile take-offs from a Furd) and had the front end checked as always. The Left lower balljoint is loose (again). Since it is no-longer under warranty and I don't want any more of Dc's plastic filled crap balljoints I went to the the parts store to find some steel greasable ones. They have Spicer part# 505-1181. It is greasable but the parts "proffessional" did not know what if any warranty it had or the makeup of the internal parts. I don't want to spend $50. 00 on one to bring home and cut open to see if it is junk or not. Does anyone know?
 
Spicer is an old, well respected name. However, I have not looked at the ball joints. Another source would be NAPA who I believe have lifetime warranties on their parts.
 
You might also want to check on MOOG parts (I believe that they make most of Carquest's suspension parts). I have always liked the quality of their parts and had great service from them.



Joe
 
what I am trying to find out is what they are like internally. The alignement shop says the factory joints fail so fast because they are plastic internally plus are not lubed.
 
All the ball joints have a plastic bushing in them. It keeps friction and noise down. The biggest problem is probably that your original one didn't have enough grease in it and the replacement wasn't greased when the dealer installed it.



I buy my Spicer parts at NAPA for the warrantee. Be sure they give you the "better" parts. There are two levels to the Spicer parts, the better ones (which they are giving you) are greasable, the lower line isn't.



Whe you replace the upper joint (since it's apart, do both ball joints and the u-joint) you might have to do something special to get the zirk to clear the u-joint. If I get the chance, I'll look at mine tomorrow.
 
As far as the front ball joints for 4WD - I have a 96 that I replaced them on last year.



Instead of a ball joint press you could also take the unit w/ the ball joints out and use a shop press - that is what I do. I made some adaptors out of 2 1/2" pipe.



Dealer wanted 1100 to do the ball joints.



I got the ball joints at CarQuest. Both are greasable and are made by Moog. I only use Mood or Spicer drivetrain parts when possible. These have held up well.



part number CCH K8388T - 57. 64 for 2

part number CCH K8607T - 90. 02 for 2



Dan
 
I just got finished installing ball joints on my 1996 this past Saturday. I ordered them from quad4x4, ordered the ball joint kit with tools. I have a press that made the job fairly easy. The kit came with an instructional video (the video kinda reminded me of my old TST kit days) that shows several options if you don't have a press.



Dan at quad4x4 only sells only the Spicer ball joints for our trucks. These are the "improved" Spicer ball joints. According to him they tend to hold up better than other brands that he had tried. I asked him about the Moogs and he said he uses them on other vehicles but not the 2500 & 3500 Dodge trucks. This is my third set, the set I just replaced were Moogs and they lasted about 40K miles. They had grease zirks but you can't hardly get a grease gun to the top joint.



Take Extreme1's advise. - I wish I had ordered the ball joint kit with the front axle u-joints. My drivers side u-joint was binding and those large 4500# axle u-joints are kinda hard to source on a Sat afternoon locally. If possible check your u-joints before you start this project and maybe have some on hand in case you need them or just replace them to be safe.



Another tip - (from the video) drian your front axle before you start to keep gear oil from going over the seals in the axle. The first time I did not do this and I thought I had busted the axle seals because it slung gear oil for a couple of days after I finished.



Best of luck...
 
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