2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Spicer part number for '97 Carrier Bearing.

[pcorssmit]

Had to replace the carrier bearing in my '97 5 spd the other day. I did a few searches here, and was unable to find the part number. It seems as if there is some confustion in the parts books. Napa gave me the wrong part and did not show any other listings. The Spicer dealer also gave me the wrong part at first, it turns out he was looking at a book that has since been updated.



The correct part number is 211848-1X.



This carrier bearing is threaded for two bolts, and looks like a rectangle with a semi-circle on one end. Both of the wrong ones I was sold/shown had a leg on each side, with a hole that was not threaded, and a much wider footprint. The only difference I could find with the new one and my original was that the original used metric bolts, and the new used SAE.



I also had to pick up (2) 7/16-14 x 1-1/4 long bolts and lockwashers.



Cost on the bearing was ~$47.



Hope this helps someone.



Pete

 

[John]

Pete, I took my '98. 5 (24v... ) 2-piece driveline into the Dana/Spicer shop in Seattle several weeks ago for a complete (not required but done just in case) rebuild. I had all three U-joints replaced, the center bearing replaced, the yoke behind the center bearing replaced (it was defective right from the manufacturer), as well as having the whole assembly balanced. Also noteworthy was the fact that in chasing a vibration when first trying to balance the whole assembly, it was thought that the rear shaft tube was bent. After replacement it actually turned out to be a defective yoke (which I elected to replace... even though they were finally able to balance it anyway). BTW, the replacement tubing was thrown in for free as it ultimately wasn't the problem. Sweet! Oh and, the tubing is seamless (unlike the OE tubing).



To which, Driveline Service of Seattle replaced my center bearing with a Dana/Spicer part, cutting the flat steel bottom mounting surface of the frame assembly, removing the peripheral rubber and bearing. After replacement of the bearing and rubber, the bottom mounting plate was welded at the two corners/edges.

 

[pcorssmit]

I stopped by the local driveshaft shop on the way home to pickup a boot to replace the one that I trashed. The guy mentioned that they'd had trouble getting the correct carrier bearing at times, and had also cut the old housing apart and replaced the rubber and bearing, then welded it back together. The bearing they used was for a Chevy, he wasn't sure on the exact application but said the Chevy ones were pretty much all the same. Had I known that, I would have just done the cut and reweld deal myself, instead of driving all over town to get the correct housed unit. I would have been able to get it back together the same night instead of chasing parts the next day in that case.



Pete

 

[John]

The driveline shop I use always services the center bearing assemblies the same way (as detailed in my previous post). They do however use the correct Dana/Spicer replacement bearing for the job... they do not substitute a part of lesser strength or different application.



They were amazed to see such a stout driveshaft... on a Cummins powered Dodge Ram. Somewhere between the '94s and my '98. 5 they went from the large 1350 U-joints (i. e. , 1-ton U-joints) to the 1410s I have on mine. These are mid-range sized U-joints!