Spicer u-joint

[bgilbert]

Finally installed two new u-joints in my rear driveshaft. Originally wanted Spicer non-greaseable u-joints. Found out we have 1410 series rear u-joints. Also, Spicer doesn't make a nongreaseable ujoint in 1410 series, had to buy greaseable. After quite a few phone calls, found the Spicer part number 5-160X that Pastor Bob said he had, from a local HD truck parts/junkyard. This is the correct pn for 1410 series. It is the high end 'cold formed or forged' ujoint. Paid about $18 each. Outside locking rings. Bought new bolts and straps from Napa at about $6 each kit, ended up using the old genuine Spicer straps though cause the Napa straps didn't fit very tight, aftermarket go figure.

The ujoints I removed were 'Precision' 330 ujoints, found out Napa carried them. After cleaning things up good, the Spicers fit nice and tight. Have only went for a test drive but feels like I'm getting more to the ground now, and things are tight, time will tell. Thanks for all the help awhile back. Now just gotta get time to install my new PDR HX35-16 Oo.

 

[CDegner]

Now just gotta get time to install my new PDR HX35-16 Oo.

No time like the present. What are you doing posting on here? You could have almost been done by now! Make the time. Get it done!!! You will not regret it.



Carl

 

[dpuckett]

Um, he's putting the PDR HX35 on his 89 (though he didnt specify that- I am just in the know), and it will take some parts shopping. robbing to get it all to fit. Now I wont be alone with my PDR turbo on a nonIC truck. Oo.



I ran a Precision u-joint in my truck for a month- roasted it in that time driving empty, maybe one 15K load or two. Neapco or Spicer only for me.



Daniel

 

[CGauthier]

Hmmm just changed mine just before or around when I joined here in February... I'm scared to look what it is <a href='http://www.smileycentral.com/?partner=ZSzeb008' target='_blank'>#ad
</a>



Dam, i never even thought about whether there were different Ujoints <a href='http://www.smileycentral.com/?partner=ZSzeb008' target='_blank'>#ad
</a>

 

[JBWNHAM]

spicer 1410 joint #

The spicer part # for lifetime non greasable joints is 5-801X

 

[CGauthier]

I was wondering about Ujoints again-my drive shaft just fell out of my truck because a bolt backed out of the yoke and driving the truck in reverse on a rocky job site driveway made the driveshaft decide it wanted out Luckily i had an old spare precision ujoint waiting behind the seat and a pair of vise grips (lol Murphy strikes again, I always carry wrenches and socket set, but not this time). So, thinking that the precision wont last too long, I figure I'm gonna order up some spicers so I got em, because getting them locally is impossible. Last time I was looking up the 5-160x joints I remembered them being pretty expensive, but I just stumbled on this site and I'm a little spooked by the price and the wording, "Just like OE" Lol. Does this price seem real? They don't seem to have the 5-801X but who cares, one extra fitting to grease doesn't bother me... and like Daniel says it's probably better that way.

Thanks,
Carl

Link to the site I'm talking about Spicer U-Joints - OK4WD

 

[JLEONARD]

It is the high end 'cold formed or forged' ujoint

Should be much, much stronger than a cast "spider" grease fitting or not.

Now the question... . who's moniker is stamped on the bearings themselves? That would be my concern more than the spider.

Jay Leonard

 

[DBF]

I haven't heard any clangs or bangs in the drivetrain. What's a good check to see if u-joints or center-bearings are at the point they should be replaced?

I have 210,000 miles on the truck, with 45,000 of that towing the fiver.

Thanks in advance. DBF

 

[bgilbert]

Carl, that site looks like it sells legit Spicers. I paid $18 each locally before for them 5-160x.

 

[Greenleaf]

My local OTR truck dealership is $13. XX so probably pay about 14. 00 per spicer joint w/tax and title.



Someone ask the Dodge Dealer what a joint costs... .....

 

[JLEONARD]

What's a good check to see if u-joints or center-bearings are at the point they should be replaced?

Owen you have to get under the truck and inspect each ujoint... both visually (look for broken grease seals, rusty yuck or powder oozing out between the spider and bearings) and physically (immobilize one end and rotate the shaft... look/feel for radial play between the spider and bearings).



You probably won't feel/hear anything while driving until the u joints get really bad.

 

[CSchafer]

I havent had a problem with anybodys u-joint but I have sheared off two sets of strap bolts. Make sure to get a good brand when replacing them also.

 

[DBF]

Thanks, Jay

Owen/DBF

 

[DVolk]

I like the Spicer joints my self as well , CTM claims to build a bullet proof joint for a $150. 00 each



What i see all the time for a cause of faliure is really poor grease



I always use either the red grease of multiple brands or a orange grease

called Big Foot its melting tempature is 1500 degrees



it wont wash out like some of those grease types will

 

[JIM BOB]

Interference U Joints

SEVERAL YEARS AGO I REPLACED A U JOINT ON MY 78 1 TON CHEVY 4X4 HOMEMADE SHORT BED(6" LIFT, 37" TIRES, IT'S HARD ON U JOINTS ALREADY), U JOINT DIED HAULING WOOD FOR A FRIEND. THE NEW NAPA U JOINT WAS "GMB" BRAND, THEY DON'T SEEM TO HAVE SPICER U JOINTS AT NAPA ANYMORE , THE NEW U JOINT DIED SAME DAY HAULING NEXT LOAD OF WOOD. 3 U JOINTS AND 2 WEEKS LATER, I CALLED ONE OF THE DRIVESHAFT COMPANYS TO ORDER A NEW REAR SHAFT AND T-CASE YOKE. I FIGURED I MUST HAVE BENT OR TWEAKED SOMETHING. THE REPLACEMENTS FAILURE WAS ALWAYS THE SAME, CAP WOULD HAVE A BLUE SPOT ON IT FROM HEAT,AND CROSS AND INSIDE END OF THE CAP WOULD BE CHEWED UP,BUT ONLY ON 2 CAPS U-BOLTED TO THE T-CASE YOKE.

THE DRIVESHAFT PEOPLE SAID IT WAS THE CHEAP U JOINTS AND TO MEASURE THEM, I REMOVED THE SEALS FROM THE CAPS, ASSEMBLED THE U JOINT AND MEASURED THE WARRANTY REPLACEMENT WAITING TO GO IN, THE U JOINT WAS . 014 WIDER THAN THE INSIDE OF YOKE EAR TO EAR , I BELT SANDED THE 2 CAPS DOWN UNTIL IT MEASURED WHAT THE U JOINT BOOK SAID IT SHOULD, THE 2 CAPS IN THE DRIVESHAFT ARE HELD IN WITH INSIDE CLIPS, SO THE OUTSIDE CAP TO CAP DIMENTIONS DIDN'T MATTER, BUT IT WAS TOO WIDE ALSO.



JAMES

 

[JLEONARD]

JimBob,

With the lift you are putting a strain on a ujoint to start with. That said you need something better than today's "standard replacement".



About U joints, your failure mode and what you measured... many of the ujoint companies use a "technique" to eliminate rotational lash and noise that is called "end loading". This means they design the system so that the ends of the spiders contact the inside of the bearing cup and actually load the cap. The danger here is that as the unjoint angle INCREASES, as you have done by lifting the truck, the load on the bearing cap goes out of sight. Hence the witness mark indicating excessive heat on the bearing cap. I'm surprised the cap didn't blow out.

By grinding down the cap you reduced the end loading.

 

[JIM BOB]

Hi

It was just those u joints I had trouble with, I have owned the truck for over 10 years, It has custom heavy duty driveshafts front and rear. I have a cv and u-joint master catalog, these u joints are the only ones that never met spec, spicer and neapco have always been dead on. U joints that are end loaded usally have a plastic insert in the caps, these were metal trunion to metal cap contact.

James