2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Sport headlamps

[mcdaniel1]

I did a little search of these boards, it appears that 2000 was the year DC began using switched ground circuits for the lights.

 

[Thomas]

The Brite Box sold by Geno's Garage is attached to the factory headlight harness. Geno's catalog specifies one model for 1994-1998 Rams and another for 1999-2002. This convinces me that:



1. switched ground was used model year 1999



2. OEM design must be considered when attaching to the OEM harness

 

[JGK]

Thomas,



OK, I see your point. I have switched power so hooking up the new harness to the old was not a problem for me. However, I did a lot of reading here before I did this mod and was aware of the switched ground/switched power issue. Having said that, and once you're aware of this, I still contend it's really not much of an issue. Your stock harness plug that plugs into the original bulbs will have 3 leads whether you have a switched ground or switched power system, right? (Please correct me because I haven't done this mod on a switched ground system. ) In mine, the ground is common and the 2 power leads are switched (low and hi beams). I would think on a switched ground system one would be hot and the other 2 would be separate, switched grounds. Once you are aware of which is which, it's still simply a matter of running 2 wires - one from the hot and one from the ground - to the coil of the relay. It just depends on if your grounds are separate due to being switched, or your power leads are separate due to being switched. You just wouldn't want to run a common ground from the relay coil to your truck's body/frame on a switched ground system! That would be a problem.



Either way, the load side (bulb power) of the new harness can be switched power or switched ground (the relays are the switches). It all depends on how you want to set it up.



OK, now for mcdaniel1's diode/relay question. Yes, you are correct, sir! There is a forgotten, hidden, 4th relay (geez, I have too many electrical mods on this truck!). I dug out my service manual and found my notes. Right there on page 8W-50-2 showing the multi-function switch I've sketched a hidden relay.



After the multi-switch, on the hi-beam circuit I tapped the wire (red/orange) to energize the relay coil (body-ground the other side). I then tapped the wire running from the headlight switch "off" position to the multi-switch (light green) and ran this tap to one contact of the switch part of the relay. The reason to use the "off" side is so power to the low beam filament is available when you hit the momentary/flash option of the multi-switch (to flash your hi beams when your headlights are off). This headlights-off circuit (fed by the light green wire) is also linked to headlights-on wire from the headight switch inside the multi-switch. Don't worry about this too much. Suffice to say it is simply a power source to the low beam filament via the relay contacts.



The other contact of the relay (switch) is run to a tap in the low beam wire after the multi-switch (violet/white).



So, when you turn on your head lights, the stock harness lights the low beam filament. When you hit your hi beams the low beam would normally go off, but the coil of the relay is engergized via my tap off the hi beam wire and the coil closes the contacts. This routes power from the headlights-off wire out of the standard headlight switch to the low beam supply wire after the multi-switch. Voila, your low beam filament is powered.



This little relay is tuffed somewhere in the steering column. That's why I'd forgotten about it.



I know this sound far more complicated that it needs to be. But it's really pretty simple. Hope I haven't bored you with the details.



Now, wanna talk about the relay on the headlight switch so when I turn on the bed light over the rear window, the cab lights go out?!



Yeeesh,

-Jay

 

[mcdaniel1]

Jay,

Never bored with the details! Thanks for sharing, I know you didn't want to "write a white paper" , but I appreciate the effort that you went to for this. Your method provides a alternative to the diode method. That is what I was looking for. Different methods used for lighting the 9007 Low with the Highs.



Thank you again Much appreciated.

 

[JGK]

Great! Thanks!



Hey Demon Dodge, are you still out there!? You started this thread! I hope you're enjoying the conversation. Hopefully you picked up some ideas and cleared some issues. Just do it. It's a great mod.



-J.

 

[robbiesworld]

Hi guys I wrote to Daniel Stern and asked about running both high and low filameants I really really want to hook up both filaments, I am currently running the two 9004 bulbs in the sport lights-- talk about dim... This was his answer...



Each of the Ram Sport headlamps has two bulbs: One 9004 and one 9007. Both

of these are dual-filament bulbs. It's a VERY bad idea to run low + high

beams at the same time in a dual-filament bulb. Double-filament bulbs such

as the ones in your truck are NOT meant to burn both filaments at once.

Halogen headlamp bulbs are pressurized to between 9 and 12 atmospheres (up

to 177 PSI) when _cold_. When heated up by just one filament operating,

pressure skyrockets. When overheated by two filaments operating, pressure

goes stratospheric. Doing so frequently causes headlamp bulbs thus

overheated to turn into grenades. This utterly, utterly destroys the

headlamp; it shreds the reflector surface and the inside of the lens with

hot glass shrapnel.



The Ram Sport headlamps are much better on low and high beam -- no need to

abuse them and risk damage to get good light.



DS

 

[JGK]

Hmmm. Interesting. He would know. I'm surprised we haven't heard of that happening more on this forum considering the number of people doing it (not a huge number, but they're concentrated here).



I suppose it pays to buy quality bulbs and keep your fingers crossed of you run both filaments!



-Jay

 

[ben_ak]

Rather than running both filamnets, I think you would be better off to use a higher wattage bulb (with relays and larger wires of course). Of course, I have never had a lack of lighting - I have the sport conversion, ARB fog lamps, and KC DayLighters at my disposal. It's always been plenty of light for me up here in moose country.



-Ben

 

[mcdaniel1]

Stern's comments are very interesting to say the least. I would still like to hear from a member that has used the Diode method to accomplish the "triple element burn". Diode size , connections etc.



I can think of several situations where we might want to have as much available light possible. As JGK mentions above, there are many folks here that have been doing this for years without issue. It does seem that there would be mention of catastrophic failure if this were a absolute. With Stern's comments in the back of our mind to temper the use of a "souped-up" set of head lights and with prudent use, I still think it can be done.



After all, we are our own warranty station.

 

[JGK]

Rather than running both filamnets, I think you would be better off to use a higher wattage bulb (with relays and larger wires of course).

I am... er... do! All of the above.



I just don't get the opportunity to run multiple filaments for and extended time very often. That's probably why I haven't had a problem... yet.



-Jay

 

[BroncoMarc]

I'm looking at some Sport headlights for my 98. 5, but the ad I'm looking at says they're for 99-01. Is that just the years the sports used them or is there some mounting difference?



I understand I'll have to cut some sheet metal to get access to the 2nd bulb, but other than that will these bolt up to my 98. 5?

 

[Thomas]

... is there some mounting difference?...



No.



... but other than that will these bolt up to my 98. 5?



Yes

 

[TinCanTourist]

Anyone who's made the conversion have a curb side housing they want to get rid of? Busted an adjusting tab on the plastic housing and now that side is just a sky light! I know, my sig says sport pkg but apparently its not as sporty as I thought after reading this thread, lots of good info.

 

[RSergeant]

Just wondering I have the single bulb design housings, just bought new ones and haven't got the money to get the sport housing yet. would I get more light running the lights with a relay same as stock but using dirrect current from the battery one relay low and one relay high. pretty simple set up just need a little more light than stock set up through the switch. Thanks.

 

[todt061458]

I think it is always better to run the lights( any kind of light aux factory ect) direct to the battery and use the dodge switch( or a aux switch ) to turn the relays on/off and let the relay take the voltage and amps . cheaper also to replace a fried relay than that bean counter inspired switch dodge gave us. It sure helped my truck- brighter whiter and the switch is cooler in the cab. I think summit has a premade wire kit for around $30. 00 give or take a few dollars. Good luck and I hope you get the sport lights before too long. Tod

 

[BroncoMarc]

Finally got mine done. They look Friggin sweet!



I bought them off ebay from the seller "procarparts.com" for $125 got the headlights and $30 for the turn signals (plus $18 each shipping )



I did all my own wiring. . Ran 14 guage to all the lights running all 4 lows on low and all 4 highs on high, running them off relays triggered by the original wires.



Now I just need to wait till dark so I can see how well they light up!!



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__________________

- Marc Reiter

1998. 5 Dodge Ram Cummins Turbo Diesel - BHAF, Gauges, 275 Injectors, Edge Comp, DTT TC, DTT valve body, DTT Rebuild, more to come...

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