Archived spraying fuel at the filter assembly!

[purdytj]

Hi all,

I suppose I'm another victim needing help with the "911" threads relating to fuel delivery...



I've got a 1998 2500 with the 12-valve engine. I changed the fuel filter on it with a filter from Cummins Northwest in western Washington. When I did that I learned (by error) that I needed to have the canister full of fuel when putting the assembly back together. The truck has worked great for about 3 months, including a moving trip from Washington back to Iowa (1,800 miles) towing a car hauler and our Subaru. In total I've been driving about 3 months and about 2,500 miles (max) with no problems.



YESTERDAY, a hot one here in central Iowa, we got to the Costco parking lot and fuel was dribbling out from the engine compartment at a quick rate. I opened the hood to see fuel spraying out near the fuel filter assembly, hitting the engine block, and falling down to the ground. The fuel is squirting out on the right portion of the assembly between the canister and housing. I shut it off, walked to Lowes to buy a wrench, pulled off the canister and filter to see the gasket and o-ring both stretched out. I put it back on (had to call AAA to bring a gallon of diesel to pour back into the canister since I dropped it and all the fuel spilled out) and let it leak all the way home. The filter itself is barely dirty.



TODAY, I installed another new fuel filter with fresh gasket and o-rings. Same problem! Fuel squirting out between the canister and the housing assembly that holds the canister in place. I pulled it all apart and really felt the underside of the housing where the canister comes into contact and did not feel any old o-rings or gaskets adhered to the metal. The new filter obviously has a nice gasket and o-rings that are not stretched out.



I called the place out east that makes the Prime-Loc relocation kit... well, they used to. They don't make it anymore but still have it on their website "for service reasons. " (Then put that explanation on the website and don't lead us to think you still make it!!!!) Ben there said he would make me one for $800 - 1,000. I laughed. I may as well get a FASS system!



I have a fuel pressure gauge at the inlet to the P7100 pump and it is showing normal pressure (about 20lbs) at idle. It is just that fuel is spilling everywhere at the fuel filter assembly.



Sorry I'm a bit frustrated... Am I tightening it too much? I can't fit my torque wrench back there to make sure it is only 10lb-ft and I don't think that would be causing a leak like this anyway.

Any help is appreciated!!!



T. J.

 

[Sticks]

Usually it is the O-ring that gets twisted or falls out when it makes contact, then as you tighten it, it gets stretched.

You may have a crack in the housing as well.

Make sure that you don't have any other obstructions in the filter housing or post. It's been a looooooong time since I have even seen one of the 1st gen filter housings so I can't quite remember all that is involved.

I have seen parts of the previous filters stay behind (seals, caps, etc. ) on other types of canister housings that cause the same problem you are having.

 

[GAmes]

If it happened all of a sudden I am inclined to believe the top housing is cracked. Kind of a hassle but it can be removed. Only two years used the canister system ('97 & 12 valve '98) so finding a used one might be difficult. If you lived closer I would loan you a spare that came with the '98 12 valve I bought, but I don't want to sell it. I suppose the first step would be to remove the top portion and confirm it is cracked. Then check out alternatives, like maybe a FASS, if you can't find a replacement. BTW, the canister does not have to be refilled prior to install. That is what the bleed bolt and the primer on the lift pump are for.

 

[HHhuntitall]

I'd have to agree on the cracked top housing. There are other possibilities, such as a cracked o-ring on the fuel heater wire input, but typically, it's the top housing that's broken. I've got one, but you could order one from Cummins or Dodge just as quick. Be sure to get your engine serial number or the last 8 of your VIN when you go to order parts. Has anyone looked to see if the later style caps are the same?!?!