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I am wanting to go with the 2. 5" Skyjacker springs for the front. What will I need to do to the rear to get the truck to set level? Will my Rancho RS9000 shocks work with the new springs without topping out? What about an adjustable steering arm, droped pitman arm?

Thanks in advance. :)
 
Does your truck set higher in the rear? If it does the 2. 5 should level it out. My stock springs were only about 1/2 inch to contacting the bumpstops. When I put on the 2. 5 on the front my stock shocks were too short. They were fully extended when installed sitting on level ground. Dunno if your ranchos are longer or not. I needed no steering correction on my truck. Mine is a 93. You need to fill out your signature so we know what you have. If you have a 89-91 then the answers might be differnt. Mine came with the factory 6" blocks in the rear. I also have a kelderman air ride, so my stock hieght might be a little differnt then yours.



Let us know.
 
2. 5 inch softride skyjacker springs in the front and 6 inch softride skyjacker springs in the rear. This combo will allow your truck to sit level with no rear blocks. The fronts will sit too high at first but after several weeks they will sag to level with the rear and stay there. The stock front driveshaft may not fit until the fronts sag in. If the truck leans to the drivers side after the sag in period, swap them side for side to even it out - the drivers side of your truck is heavier than the passenger. If you have to replace your 9000s, try the bilsteins up front. I went with the 9000s all the way around and they are too stiff for me even on the lowest setting. The stock junkers rode better. This spring combo will hold your truck about an inch over stock height. The rear springs haul loads well unless you are going VERY heavy. Keep in mind that the rear shackle bolts will almost certainly be rusted in and will have to be cut. The Mopar replacements are very expensive but if you use a store bought replacement, locktight them - mine loosened up and started coming out. The front ubolts will work with the new springs because the Skyjacker set is shorter. The rears will need to be replaced when you remove the block. While you are replacing them, hog out the holes in the spring pad and go with a larger diameter ubolt - 9/16 or 5/8. I can't believe that mopar went with a 1/2 inch ubolt and a 6 inch block behind a diesel. Getting rid of the block will cure half your axle wrap/shudder. A con-o clutch will take care of the rest of the shudder. Just for the record, it is possible to get the drivers side rear spring front bolt in and out without removing the fuel tank - tricky but it can be done if you have long thin arms. The steering was fine other than replacing the sloppy column shaft to box joint and getting it aligned.
 
I have a 92 W250 auto so the shudder isn't a problem. It has 33x12. 50s on it with an add-a leaf now. The po installed it under the entire spring pack :confused: . The ends have been rubbing on the stock springs at an angle and have rubbed into them. I want to get rid of them out of fear of the main spring breaking at the wear point. I have heard good things about the 2. 5" Skyjacker springs. I just don't want to have to buy new shocks to go along with them. I will wait on the rear springs as well, maybe add them at a later date. I like the idea of air bags in the rear since I carry a varying amount of weight. I assume I can get a little bit of lift with the air bags.

I'm planning on buying the Borgesen steering shaft at the same time. I've used this on other Dodge trucks and it works great.
 
You otta be good to go if your truck already clears 33X12. 5. The shocks should be ok, as long as they aren't already maxed out. When you remove them check and make sure. I had to slightly trim my stock fender flares to keep 33's from touching at extreme articulation.



Michael
 
on the front end... . how much clearence should be between the rubber stoper and the axle?? it seems like the front is too low but i can't really tell
 
Sagged out factory front leafs will leave you with 1/2 to 3/4 inch between the bump stops and the leafs. The ride quality will be awful. After a set of 2. 5" softrides sag in, you should have about 3" clearance and a level ride.
 
I went with the Skyjacker 1" front springs, new Rancho RSX shocks, and no changes to the rear springs. Truck is nearly level after the install, with the nose just a hair lower than the rear. Ride is awesome (compared to the stock springs)! I also fitted 33x12. 50s with minimal trimming of the factory black plastic fender "flare". I haul a slide in camper, so I didn't want to the nose to point to the sky when loaded down, so I opted out of the 2. 5" springs and chose the 1". I think the 1" and 2. 5" springs are the same price, so it really depends on what you haul or tow, and if you are going to alter the rear springs at the same time. Can't go wrong with the Skyjackers, though. Seem very well made to me.
 
I put 2. 5" kit on mine, ordered the Rancho's from Summit on sale after they said no problem with the fit. When it came time to install the shocks, no go. Not long enough. Ended up buying Skyjacker shocks too. I checked direct with both Skyjacker for the travel spec's on the 2. 5" lift and went to Rancho for an application to match, bupkiss. Would have saved myself some time up front had I done that first.



BCook1 clearance figures after are right on.



Pat
 
Shock specs

When looking for new shocks, I found the only place with the specs I needed was Sears. They had all the max and min measurements in a catalog. I got a fair price on 9000s installed. Yes the Ranchos are a bummer to install. Next time I would try biltsteins on the front at least if not all the way around.
 
I ordered the 4" front springs with bushings, droped pitman arm and Skyjacker shocks today through 4wheel parts wholesalers $581 shipped to my door. I decided to go with the 4" after checking one out last night. I am going to put the add a-leaf in the rear for a while, but will probably end up with new springs in the rear too.
 
I did not know there was a 4" front spring for cummins trucks - make sure the ones you get are for diesel trucks - a lot more weight up front. You won't need a pitman arm for the 2. 5s. I tried a pitman arm on a six inch kit on a gas truck and it was nothing but problems. The raised steering block for dana 60s was a much better solution. Watch out for very unpleasant steering behavior with the taller kits. What happens is the front springs contact the frame under compression. They wrap up and release violently - sometimes throwing the truck sideways. I had to make custom shackles an inch longer to keep the spring from touching the frame before reaching the "neutral" point at which the springs get shorter during travel up and down.
 
They called me back about my billing address not being the correct one ( darn 911 addresses). I had them change it to the 2. 5" springs and bushings. I'm not going to run any bigger than 33" tires so I did not see the need for the added height. Plus my truck already has new RS9000 shocks on it. I think I will be happier with the 2. 5", plus I will have some $$$ for other mods. ;)



BCook1, I've had similar issues with the dropped pitman arms. Thanks for reminding me. :)
 
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