Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Sps 62

[BlitzkriegSSII]

I just ordered a new SPS 62 was wondering if there are any tips or tricks that i should know be for i go to in stall it. Thanks for the help.

 

[elandon1201]

I just ordered a new SPS 62 was wondering if there are any tips or tricks that i should know be for i go to in stall it. Thanks for the help.

Cut the stock oil return line off about 2 inches from the flange and use High temp hose to run down to the block. It wil save you a TON of Frustration

 

[Cummins724]

The oil return line that bolts to the bottom of the turbo is hard to get lined up. These turbos require "clocking"... . the compressor housing has 6 bolts that holds it together. You must loosen the 6 bolts & turn the housing until the oil return tube clears it... . then retighten the bolts after you have the housing positioned correctly. I usually take the housing loose & turn it out of my way completely while I hook up the return line. Don't cut the line!

 

[rivercat]

Cut the stock oil return line off about 2 inches from the flange and use High temp hose to run down to the block. It wil save you a TON of Frustration

better yet call rip and get a 3rd gen flexy drain line in case you don't have a 3rd gen already cause the big turbine housing and wastgate rod makes for a lot of beating and bending to fit the stock hard drain line that comes on a 2nd gen like mine

 

[BILLVO]

The oil return line that bolts to the bottom of the turbo is hard to get lined up. These turbos require "clocking"... . the compressor housing has 6 bolts that holds it together. You must loosen the 6 bolts & turn the housing until the oil return tube clears it... . then retighten the bolts after you have the housing positioned correctly. I usually take the housing loose & turn it out of my way completely while I hook up the return line. Don't cut the line!

Ditto on what 724 said I just put the return line in a vise and give it a gentle squeeze about an inch below the flange to flatten it out just a little bit in the wastgate actuater arm area. and then loosen the compressor housing and swing it out of the way. leave the return tube loose in the hose until it is bolted to turbo.

 

[Cummins724]

I didn't have to bend or crimp my line at all... . just turn the housing & install line..... then set housing & tighten the bolts to spec.

 

[BILLVO]

I didn't have to bend or crimp my line at all... . just turn the housing & install line..... then set housing & tighten the bolts to spec.

I should clarify my silver 62 wastegate rod looked like it would have cleared it. It sets closer to the turbine housing than the BD Super B I had on before I had to crimp it to clear and even then it was extremely close. I looked at both and the II has a better wastegate mounting braket set up than the BD had.

 

[ph]

Anyone else encounter interference with the hard waterline? If so, what's a good way to solve this? Can the turbo be touching the line without causing problems down the road?

TIA, ph

 

[elandon1201]

The oil return line that bolts to the bottom of the turbo is hard to get lined up. These turbos require "clocking"... . the compressor housing has 6 bolts that holds it together. You must loosen the 6 bolts & turn the housing until the oil return tube clears it... . then retighten the bolts after you have the housing positioned correctly. I usually take the housing loose & turn it out of my way completely while I hook up the return line. Don't cut the line!

Been on for almost a year without one problem or leak. And I didnt have to turn a bolt on the Turbo.

 

[HEMI®Dart]

I didn't have to bend or crimp my line at all... . just turn the housing & install line..... then set housing & tighten the bolts to spec.

Same here too. The oil drain tube bolted right up without having to modify it at all. It took some trial and error. If I remember correctly, I jusy had to re-clock the compressor housing. The drain tube may or may not slightly touch compressor housing.



I should have snapped a picture. :{

 

[Cummins724]

The turbo housing is easy to loosen the bolts & turn it out of the way. It won't hurt the turbo in any way to loosen the bolts. It makes the install alot easier/faster..... this is recommended by HT. It is gonna save you alot of time on install & you won't have to worry about "is it leaking" from crimping it. I've installed 4 different turbos on my truck & never had a clearance issue with the oil return line clearance.

 

[BlitzkriegSSII]

Hay thanks a lot for all the input. Im sure it will help a lot with the install. I was also looking at (latter on down the road) to put in a set of Formula 1 Mach 4 injectors. Would this be a good combo or is there a little better injector out there. Im going to be moving to alaska and i will be towing a trailer a lot when i get up there, this is also my daily driver.

 

[Cummins724]

Hay thanks a lot for all the input. Im sure it will help a lot with the install. I was also looking at (latter on down the road) to put in a set of Formula 1 Mach 4 injectors. Would this be a good combo or is there a little better injector out there. Im going to be moving to alaska and i will be towing a trailer a lot when i get up there, this is also my daily driver.

A Mach 4 injector is a good choice ... . from what I've read they are clean & smooth. I prefer Industrial Injection injectors myself... . they are cheaper & really clean & smooth. They actually idle better than stock..... nice & smooth. I just switched from 10 hole dragon flow injectors [which I loved] to a set of 4 flow 125hp injectors. I wanted a cleaner injector & let me tell you... they don't smoke at all when I am running my comp only. On 5x5 I get a little haze, but they have the power to get a the turbo spooling. I would recommend the 4 flow injectors from them. I have a smarty stacked with my comp & the smoke is thick on smarty 8, but when I tow... . I just shut smarty down.