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SRW to DRW conversion

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Here we go again but I need some help on deciding something, if you look at my truck profile you can see that I'am asking my truck to haul over its GVWR. I want to convert from SRW to DRW and have search through the threads and understand that as long as I get the same 3. 54 dana 70 to dana 80 ratio that it is pretty much plug and play, is this true. Also I would buy some fenders from arrowcraft to finish the look.



Second I need more power so here is my plan 16cm turbo housing, bosh 185 injectors, bull dog 4" exhaust, pump tweaks, boost pyro temp guages, have 4speed 47rh @stock trans cooler but need triple lock TQ, I think this is a lot of investment but I know and trust this truck @ 150k and believe it can be converted to meet my demands. Or you persons can tell me I'am nuts and I should just go buy me a new truck that can do the job.



Well let me know what you think?
 
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You will be moving the centerline of support outboard over 1" (more leverage on the spindles, etc. ) and also not strengthening the housing. You will actually end up with less weight capacity in terms of the diff's strength.
 
Joe,



Thanks for the heads up, so here is my other option getting a set of Rickson tires and rims @ a big ***** rear swaybar???
 
MPurves,



You are a little vague on what you plan to do. I think you are talking about a D-70 w/3. 54 ratio SRW, currently in your truck. With a transplant of a D-80 w/3. 54 factory DRW. If this is what you are talking about, then yes it will be a major impovement in GAWR. If it is a D-80 w/3. 54 factory SRW, converted to DRW, then you will compromise the axle like Joe said. The axle swap should be fairly easy, with some small mods. Any model D-80 is better than the D-70. However some D-70 HD's, with the 4" axle tubes are rated up to 10,000 GAWR. They are used in Chevy P-30's. Most come with 8 or 10 bolt 19. 5's. I have one in my "74" Ford, they make a very good conversion.



"NICK"
 
Nick,

"I think you are talking about a D-70 w/3. 54 ratio SRW, currently in your truck. With a transplant of a D-80 w/3. 54 factory DRW. " Yes this is exactly what I would like to do. So this is somthing I can do to achieve a greater GAWR. What pit falls might I encounter ex:e-brake connection etc. While I'am at it does anybody know where I can buy my DRW.
 
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Joseph Donnelly said:
You will be moving the centerline of support outboard over 1" (more leverage on the spindles, etc. ) and also not strengthening the housing. You will actually end up with less weight capacity in terms of the diff's strength.



Is there any physical difference between the D80 SRW and D80 DRW? Besides the width difference they're identical, right? I think the 1" leverage is negligible until you get to extreme weights or road conditions, the full-floater has bearings right at the hub, and we're not using these axles and housings anywhere near their limit (other than DC's legal limit).

That being said, how can you go about changing the GAWR, GVWR and GCWR on a vehicle that has factory stickers and ratings based on what equipment it left the factory with?
 
It's not so much that I don't think my D70 SRW can't handle my load because everything so far has worked just fine for the last year. It's the stability in the corners and the road that I'am trying to achieve. I've seen many postings about the war on GVWR,ETC. and I could careless what the sticker says. I'am making my ride more comfortable and safer for me not the sticker. So that said anybody out there have a DRW D-80@LSD for sale or trade.
 
MPurves said:
Here we go again but I need some help on deciding something, if you look at my truck profile you can see that I'am asking my truck to haul over its GVWR. I want to convert from SRW to DRW and have search through the threads and understand that as long as I get the same 3. 54 dana 70 to dana 80 ratio that it is pretty much plug and play, is this true. Also I would buy some fenders from arrowcraft to finish the look.



Second I need more power so here is my plan 16cm turbo housing, bosh 185 injectors, bull dog 4" exhaust, pump tweaks, boost pyro temp guages, have 4speed 47rh @stock trans cooler but need triple lock TQ, I think this is a lot of investment but I know and trust this truck @ 150k and believe it can be converted to meet my demands. Or you persons can tell me I'am nuts and I should just go buy me a new truck that can do the job.



Well let me know what you think?



I had a 93 STD CAB 250 4x4 for seven years and in 2001 bought a 2001. 5

STD CAB 2500 4x4. The level of confort is much better with the new truck. I would look for a 2001. 5 or 2002 3500 DRW 6 speed or one that has a DTT or ATS upgraded auto. 3:54 with the 6 speed and 4:10 with the auto. The 2001. 5 is really best of bred of the later 2 gen's, still having the front axle CAD. In 2002 Dodge removed that feature. They added the rear disc brakes on the 2001. 5's, and for brakes alone the upgrade would be well worth the change to a newer truck. The brakes on the 93 never did work very well.



SNOKING
 
I have found a brand new rear axle drum to drum, Dana 80 3. 54 for $1000. 00 but it will cost me $400. 00 for shipping. He says it will take very little modifactions for the swap. Things like spring perch's,widen wholes for ubolt mounts, shock mounts might need to be moved though,but with air bags installed and 5000lbs in the bed how inportant are shocks anyways, also there is no change in the angle for connection. Do you think this price seems reasonable or not??
 
Have someone let you drive a newer truck (2nd Gen) and then decide if you still want to put money in the old one. SNOKING
 
I will see if this guy has any 80 with disc and 4:10's. I know if I drive a 2nd gen I will be impressed with the ride but it will cost me around 10,000 after selling mine. Then I will have to get all the camper suspension up to snuff and so on. I have a lot of toys and they have never let me down when it comes to spending more money. Trust me I'm giving the 2nd gen a very hard look and if i can liquidate enough to buy it for cash I will probably go that route.
 
got a 98 dully 2nd gen that i and getting mtr and tran out of

you can have the reast of the truck for 1000



bed is good ft end and cab(ccab) is rolled
 
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