stage one help

[AMeissner]

I aquired another 89 model 4x4 5 speed. It is completely stock. I am throwing a different housing on her, and want to do some pumping up of the pump. I have read the stickys, but how do i get the cap off of the full fuel screw, what do i need to remove to get to the screw, and how far should i tighten the screw? 3/4 turn? I dont have gauges, and wont be getting any, so i dont want to go too far. Will the diaphram and other ajustments be neccessary for what i want to gain? i have stock strait exhaust. I have a couple 12cm housings from my other trucks, should i use it or spring for the 16cm? thanks so much.

 

[sparks57]

Go 16cm, they work best on these older trucks. And make sure you have gauges!!! And no what to look for when you read them!



Also look into upgrading the intake with Sam's ASA intake. Sam's a cool guy!

 

[JLEONARD]

I have a non intercooled 91 which should be that same as what you have.

I have not turned in my fuel screw as of yet.

But I have rotated the fuel pin to max, made some minor adjustments to the starwheel and smoke screw, put bigger injectors in, and am running a 16 cm housing.

I have gages and have never seen more than 1150/1200 for egt.

That's empty or with a very light load in the bed, and I have to really lug or push hard to get those temps.

I'm just saying that if you do the adjustments and mods similar to what I have done you should be ok without gages, since it seems you're dead set against installing any.

Jay

 

[cerberusiam]

The metal cover on the screws come off with a pair of pliers and some twisting. I think it is 13mm nut that locks the screw down under the cap. You should be able to turn the screw in and out with an 8mm or 5/16 wrench after the lock nut is loose. I usually unhook the boost tube from the pump and spin it out of the way for easier access to the screw.



On an IC motor 3/4 to 1. 5 turns gave a nice increase in power and not much smoke. Three turns really woke things up.



If you still have the stock exhaust system replacing the muffler with a straight thru truck muffler and a tailpipe that isn't smashed half shut should gain you some usable power. Air flow is critical so any upgrades to the filter, housing, and fresh air will help.



The 12 and 14 housings will spool quicker and if you are not doing much towing. The stock housings work well to but you have to fuel harder to get them to spin. The 16 is a good multiple duty choice.

 

[dpuckett]

Man, I think a set of gauges is a CHEAP insurance policy. I have seen high temps too many times- empty and towing- to not have them, even in a stock truck. I had a (stock) 93 I had just bought, put gauges in (had bought them for the previous truck, but hadnt got around to putting them in when I got the 93), and had to go to Grand Junction from Loveland. Going up Vail Pass, I hit 1350 in the manifold at 70-ish & 4. 10s. Had about 3/4" pedal left, water temp was ok, but I was still in the danger zone. Had I been driving blind, I could have ended up on the side of the road, wondering why she blew up. On my 11/90, it is the same story, only more pronounced. With stock injectors, I could have probably hit 1500 empty at sea level, pushing 40+psi boost, but I chickened out at 1350.



I'd try the AFC cone adjustments, maybe bump the timing, and leave the full power screw alone, till I knew what was going on under there.



Daniel