Start of SRT-10 "Start Button" retrofit project

[Tomeygun]

ok, here the first part ordered... (and the most important)



the start button itself is part# 05029463-AA



It is a very simple switch, one lead in, one lead out...



I did not have enough time to check and see where the wires lead to, but I will try tonight to check it out tonight



PS- the part# for the dash with the whole for the button is YM11XZA-AA

but it is like $250,



I think i will just try to use the lighter hole

 

[TBrennan]

I had thought about doing this also so keep us posted. I'd like to see a close up pic of the start button. I have two momentary buttons I was considering using. I have one that is very slick with an LED ring around it which can be lit seperately. The only porblem is the button is really too small for a good start button. My idea was to have it wired such that the LED light would light when the intake grid heaters went off so it would be an easy reminder to wait for them before engaging the starter.

 

[HOBrian]

PS- the part# for the dash with the whole for the button is YM11XZA-AA

but it is like $250,



I think i will just try to use the lighter hole

I would think you could just pull the dash and put in a hole yourself... Of course I could be wrong there might be something behind the dash for the switch. Something has to justify the $250

 

[Tomeygun]

I just found all the diagrams for the starter and stuff for my diesel and the SRT-10...



maybe someone can shed some light as too what these say and mean??

(hey, i never said I was an electrical engineer!!)



http://webpages. charter.net/tomeygun/Diesel%20stuff/Button%20Starter%20idea/

 

[lawdog]

I am not an engineer by any mans, but my basic thinking is this: When we start our rams, we turn the key forward to the run position, wait to start, then turn the key forward, against a spring it feelslike and hold until starts. When the truck starts, you let the key come back to the run position and it is done.



If the SRT starter switch is one wire in one wire out, very simple in theory. find the wire from the steering column that is energized, or creates the ground depending on which way it works. take the wires to the key switch and re-route it to the button. Same thing hald button to make contact until starts... .

 

[TBrennan]

How you wire the switch will depend on how you want it to work. Do you want the normal starting function to be retained at the ignition switch so you can start with the key or button? Or do you want it to replace the starting function at the ignition?



Either way I think you'll just want to wire the switch inline from the "run" wire (+12V when vehicle is running, location 2 at the ignition switch and not shown in your picture) to the starter relay. The wire into the relay would be yellow and 16 gauge (according to your picture).



Now if you simply cut this wire and and wire the switch into it, you will have to use the button start, if you "tee" into it you should be able to use either the starter button or ignition switch. I don't think there would be any problem backfeeding 12V into the ignition switch at position 1, it shouldn't hurt anything. From the pics you have, I don't see where the SRT setup allows for starting with the key alone though.

 

[Tomeygun]

How you wire the switch will depend on how you want it to work. Do you want the normal starting function to be retained at the ignition switch so you can start with the key or button? Or do you want it to replace the starting function at the ignition?



Either way I think you'll just want to wire the switch inline from the "run" wire (+12V when vehicle is running, location 2 at the ignition switch and not shown in your picture) to the starter relay. The wire into the relay would be yellow and 16 gauge (according to your picture).



Now if you simply cut this wire and and wire the switch into it, you will have to use the button start, if you "tee" into it you should be able to use either the starter button or ignition switch. I don't think there would be any problem backfeeding 12V into the ignition switch at position 1, it shouldn't hurt anything. From the pics you have, I don't see where the SRT setup allows for starting with the key alone though.

That is correct, that SRT truck cannot be started by key movement, and you are right, I think I would like to have it both ways, and "tee" into the line... well anyway, I will mess with it when I get to work tommorow

 

[rbattelle]

Either way I think you'll just want to wire the switch inline from the "run" wire (+12V when vehicle is running, location 2 at the ignition switch and not shown in your picture) to the starter relay.

Not the RUN wire... the START wire!!

 

[TBrennan]

Not the RUN wire... the START wire!!

No, that is not correct. The starter button should be wired to the run wire just as I stated. Otherwise, you would have to simultaneously hold the ignition key in the starting position (fully turned) and then push the starting button. That would generally require both hands, be awkward and, uh, silly. Course, it might be confusing enough to would be thieves to be an effective theft deterent. :-laf



You can check the wiring diagram Tommy posted of the stock SRT-10 starting system if you want a second opinion.



The starter button is really just replacing the need for the start position at the ignition switch, although it could be wired so that either complete the same circuit and can start the truck.

 

[rbattelle]

Well, I'm confused (as usual). If the key switch goes to the START position momentarily to engage the starter, then shouldn't a pushbutton momentary switch also activate the START position? If the RUN signal is +12v whenever the engine is running, why would you want to momentarily apply +12v to that line to activate the starter? Obviously I'm missing something. I'm sorry if I've confused anyone else with my confusion!



-Ryan

 

[jacqnbill]

Please excuse my ignorance but what is an SR10 and why would you want a start button?



Bill

 

[LightmanE300]

Please excuse my ignorance but what is an SR10 and why would you want a start button?



Bill

That's the million dollar question. Seems like a lot of work for a silly 'toy' to me. .



The srt10 is a performance ram with the viper engine and some other toys in it... like the popular gauge pillar.

 

[Tomeygun]

Please excuse my ignorance but what is an SR10 and why would you want a start button?



Bill

well, its kinda like all thing we choose for appearance, you know like chrome wheels over steel... .



I thought it would be neat to have a starter button, like on most true race cars, and thought it would give my truck a race car feel... . Of course I am not killing myself trying to figure it out, but it is something I have been pondering and will enventually figure out the wiring part... IF not, I will mount it, and use it for a positive lead for a horn or something



PS - the better question is not "why" , but "why not?" (as with a good portion of my BOMBS)

 

[rbattelle]

That's the million dollar question. Seems like a lot of work for a silly 'toy' to me. .

I think it's really cool to have a start button. Then you can pretend you're driving a space shuttle or some futuristic sky car!



-Ryan

 

[mgonske]

Tomeygun, thanks for posting the part number--I'd almost forgotten about finding that. As for the 'confusion' over wiring, the switch, if SPST, has two leads--it should 'draw' power from the "run" circuit, and 'deliver' it to the "start" circuit

I think it's really cool to have a start button. Then you can pretend you're driving a space shuttle or some futuristic sky car!

Ryan, I don't drive a space shuttle, but I do launch rockets at the Cape (Launch Conductor for the Delta IV), and the winch control switches in my Jeep are Honeywell lever-locks, identical to the emergency switches on my console in the Launch Control Center (and no, you don't want to know what they cost )

 

[Jeff_K]

The problem with the SRT10 button is that it is too small to fit in the cigarette lighter hole. That is why you need to order the whole bezel (center console w/hole) also. You can, however, get one of these and place it on the cigarette lighter hole...



http://www.lildevilmotorsports.com/product_info.php?products_id=590

 

[Tomeygun]

The problem with the SRT10 button is that it is too small to fit in the cigarette lighter hole. That is why you need to order the whole bezel (center console w/hole) also. You can, however, get one of these and place it on the cigarette lighter hole...



http://www.lildevilmotorsports.com/product_info.php?products_id=590

Well crap, i was hoping for a nice fit in the cig lighter hole... darn,



Well i will have to make a template, because the button will be here tommorow, BTW - I am hot on the trail for the correct wiring, I am tearing apart a 97 intrepid ingintion switch and comparing it to the wiring diagram i have for that auto...



Here is a couple of pics that have helped so far... this is for my 03 ram and and 2004 SRT:



2003 diesel wiring for a ignition switch

2004 SRT-10 ram ignition switch wiring

 

[TheBigSgt]

OK, I would look at the wiring diagram of the starting circuit and the run circuit in both types of trucks. Then go from there. I think it's a neat idea! GO FOR IT

 

[Evan A. Beck]

In '02, I installed a Honda S2000 start button in the cigar lighter hole on my '01 Dodge. The size was identical. Wiring was tricky, since two circuits need to be shut off while one is turned on during cranking. This is really important, because some electronics in the trucks really do not like the "noise" and voltage drop in the electrical system when the starter is activated. The Honda button is similar to the SRT button, except it has a light in it. I wired the light into the Wait To Start indicator on the dash, so the switch glows red during the instrument cluster bulb test and when the heaters are activated. It is not actually wired into the heater themselves, rather it just mimics what the light on the dash is doing. That is, the start button light goes out when the light on the dash goes out. Anyway, for the actual start cicuitry, I had to use three relays. Two are used to turn off circuits during cranking, and one is used to activate a circuit. It ended up working great, and it always raises a passenger's eyebrow when I push it.



Here's a link to the wiring diagram I made. It's no the same wiring for an '03 truck, but you'll get the idea on what will need to be done. Just look at the wiring diagram for the '03 ignition switch, and you'll be able to see which circuits need to be on/off during cranking.



'01 Ram S2000 start button

 

[TBrennan]

That's great info Evan, I didn't consider that when cranking the other circuits are disengaged. To mimic the real ignition key behaviour, you would have to do what you did with the other relays. Dont see why the relay would be needed for the starter circuit though since you are already activating the starter relay, unless the switch your using is rated at high enough amperage.



I was thinking of doing the same thing with a lighted button and the "wait to start" circuit. I would like to have it come on when the wait to start goes off though since that would be more intuitive to the user. I haven't looked yet since I haven't considered really doing this yet, but I think on the third gens the "Wait to Start" light isn't a discrete circuit that can be easily tapped. I think it's triggered by the PCM, so I don't know how easy accessing that circuit will be.



Why do this someone asks?? Why not?? It's fun, looks cool, and I don't smoke so why not make use of that stupid lighter hole. :-laf



(Those aftermarket buttons posted about above look good except for the stupid advertising "Ignited" they decided needed to be put on. May be ok with Ricers but I think it cheapens it. Now if we could get the blue ones with a simple white Cummins "C" logo, that would be ideal. )