Starter motor keeps spinning

[rvaughn801]

I started Red today after it had been shut off about 30 minutes. The starter motor kept spinning after it was running. I turned the key to off, but the starter kept cranking. I turned it off and on 4 times before the starter motor would drop out.



I found a post (from '00) about a '92 with the same issue, but there was no resolution. The recommendation for the '92 was a new starter relay.



My truck does not have a tilt steering wheel. I did not think to bang on the steering column to see if the switch was stuck. I had the starter rebuilt in March of '04 to the tune of $184. 00. The problem at that time was intermittent no cranking when the key was turned.



Questions:

1. Has anyone else had this happen, and how was it resolved?

2. Does the rod that runs down the steering column actuate the starting relay?

3. It has only done this once. Should I replace something, test something or wait until it happens again? With that big battery, I bet the starter or the wires could get pretty crispy - and maybe burn down the whole truck!



I appreciate your help!

 

[rvaughn801]

Just to clarify:



When I turned the key off and on, the engine turned off and on correctly. Only the starter motor continued running with the key off.



I was not sure this was clear in my post.

 

[bgilbert]

Questions:

1. Has anyone else had this happen, and how was it resolved?

2. Does the rod that runs down the steering column actuate the starting relay?

3. It has only done this once. Should I replace something, test something or wait until it happens again? With that big battery, I bet the starter or the wires could get pretty crispy - and maybe burn down the whole truck!

1: Yes (good to see another non-tilt old style lock cylinder to rod to ignition switch owner).

2: No. The rod runs down to the ignition switch.

3: Remedy more than likely is a bent rod that actuates the ignition switch. It runs from ignition key lock cylinder to the ig switch on top of the steering column below the dash about half way down to the floor. Fix: remove the fuse box panel, drop/move fuse box out of the way, two nuts holding the steering column to the dash, drop down the column. I just bent the rod back to without removing it from the ig switch or lock cylinder. Then test it out by trying to start it with the column down.



Mine did like your's did at one time, then wouldn't start at another time, because the rod didn't travel far enough to contact the start position. If the starter doesn't disengage, the rod is not coming back to the run position, sticking at the start. Once you get the column down, you'll know what I'm talkin about, any more ?'s, let me know.

 

[rvaughn801]

Thanks, I'll go to the garage and check it out.

 

[rvaughn801]

I pulled off the cover under the column, and moved the fuse panel out of the way. The rod has a bend -------\________ and goes into a green switch. It fits securely in the green switch, and it does not seem like it is bent too much or at a bad angle. Am I missing something, or is this ok?



[/IMG]

 

[bgilbert]

Wrong rod LOL. That is the high beam rod. Now you have to drop the column down, the ig rod is on top the column. See that stud pointing down in the pic?? There is one on each side, remove the nuts, the column will drop down a few inches or so. Giving you access to the ig rod.

 

[rvaughn801]

Thanks, I always jump on the easiest thing. I'll get back out there.

 

[rvaughn801]

This time I followed directions a little better and dropped the column down. The ignition rod runs down the column and appears to make a right turn into the switch. There is a little red paint on the top of the rod, as though it has moved up (away from the column) some as it travels down to the switch. The rod feels loose in both the ignition and the switch on the column, and moves freely (sloppy?).



I wonder if the problem was a one-time binding of the rod, and if I had banged on the column it would have come loose.

 

[bgilbert]

You can also check to see if the ig switch is bolted up tight to the column, you don't want it loose and moveable. Also can remove the steering wheel, turn signal, bearing housing and inspect the lock cylinder and the rod connection there. Amazing how you take something apart then put it back together and it works correctly afterwords.



With the column down, start the truck. Watch the movement of the rod. Click it over to ACC, then run, start etc. See if it looks to bend or moves to far etc. At one time I had to 'manually' start the truck cause mine was bent. I would turn the key to start, the lights on the message center would light up, and stay lit up until I released the key. I would have to hold the key all the way over in start position, and manually push the rod on the top of the column that extra 1/2" or so for the rod to actuate the ig switch. It wasn't traveling far enough, it was bent. I'm sure your's is traveling too far.



BTW the rod will feel somewhat loose in the switch and lock cylinder. If you think its too free, then pull the wheel and dig deeper. I suggest looking for the source of the red paint. Help figure out what went wrong.

 

[rvaughn801]

I went through and snugged everything up. It seems to be operating smoother than before. It has probably been a little sticky for a while. That is about all I want to do in the middle of a work week. If it gives any more trouble, I will take it apart on a wintery day. bgilbert - Thanks for your help!

 

[bgilbert]

You're welcome! Funny no other guys commented on this hmm. . must have all those tilt wheel guys scratching their heads saying, ignition switch on the column below the dash ? :-laf ...

 

[Greenleaf]

Tilt Wheel

Dude,



I have a TILT wheel with the switch BELOW the dash. No joke.



There are two rods leading from the wheel, along the column and disappear under the dash.



I guess I don't get it. Is a switch below the dash rare? Didn't they make a tilt wheel with the switch below the dash? I have one. Never thought anything of it.



GL

 

[rvaughn801]

There must be a joint or a swivel to let the two rods articulate through the wheel tilt.



Sometimes when too many members weigh in on an issue, it just gets more confusing. I think some people also lay off so they don't hijack the thread.



The two things I appreciate are (if you have time) staying with the issue, and posting the follow up of what fixed it. This way when the archives are searched the thread is not dangling "Did he ever get it fixed?"



Thanks again.

 

[Greenleaf]

Oops, sorry. My bad.



Perhaps I should have simply stated that "for the betterment of the readers, our trucks do have the tilt column with the switch under the dash". But that still would be hijacking the thread.



Next time I'll just leave well enough alone. Sorry.



Scott

 

[rvaughn801]

No, no, I was not thinking anyone had hijacked this thread. I was just saying that if there appears to be a conversation headed towards a resolution, some people will not weigh in just to avoid the appearance of a hijacking. I am always interested about other people's equipment/experiences, as I might move up to one of those fancy tilt wheel trucks some day!

 

[bgilbert]

Only reason I mentioned the tilt wheel guys is when I had similar problems, I had no help, the search feature only brought up the switch in the wheel, needing that special socket or bit to remove etc. GL don't hate, appreciate on the 70's to 89 rigs my bro :-laf . Yeah yeah I know you have an old timer now in the family with that 90. .

 

[Greenleaf]

... . and it was said.....



"let there be an ignition switch placed in the column and hidden from one's veiw". And so it was. There was ill will towards them with the column mount switch and them with the hidden switch. The hidden switch guys took up arms against them with the other switch... ... ... ... .....



You gotta keep it light.



For the record, I'm nonpartisan. I luv 'em both.



-S

 

[ZedMikey]

Thought I'd revive an old thread here...

Today my '92 (tilt, with ignition switch on the side of the column with the lock cylinder) decided to do the whole starter-won't-stop-spinning thing. You should have seen me scramble to disconnect the positive battery wire! After some troubleshooting, I narrowed it down to the ignition switch sticking...

Anybody successfully pulled that assembly apart without breaking all the damn little plastic tabs on the trim around the lock cylinder? Can it be cleaned and lubed or should I just pony up the dough for a new one?

Thanx in advance!

 

[rvaughn801]

As I recall, the ignition switch was fairly inexpensive, ~$20. Seems like cheap insurance. If the starter ran for an extended period, it would be worth it to take it apart to make sure nothing got too hot. You wouldn't want to have another problem down the line.

 

[ZedMikey]

Yeah, I guess the switch is only $26 from Autozone.

What about getting the lock cylinder trim off the switch housing with breaking all the little plastic tabs? Any tips? I was extra-careful and managed to break the only one I tried to mess with it.