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starter or shutoff solenoid or both OR other....

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fuel pressure erratic

overhead Computer & fuel mileage...

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After last night... . the world now has a few new cuss words that I invented.



I posted a while back about my loud screech upon startup. Well, last night the loud screech kept going for about 30 seconds and so did my engine even though I took the dern key out of the ignition!!



So, in my infinite wisdom or complete lack thereof I immediately thought it was those darn contacts in my starter... . they could be sticking and causing my starter to keep right on going after the engine has started..... (voltage was 'down' too even though the engine was going while all this was happening. )



Then, since the darn engine wouldn't shut off I thought about the shutdown solenoid... .



I talked to dear old Dad today and he thinks it could be as simple as the ignition switch.....



After taking the truck swimming in DEEP water today due to all the rain... . it has been fine all day. (both differentials are getting drained/refilled tomorrow... . transmission fluid/filter, and oil change too... . after school, of course. )



Any and all words of wisdom would be cool.



Matt
 
matt... . i went through just the same and i would put my money on it being the starter... . i replaced mine and no trouble since then...
 
All this talk of the starter selenoid makes me think I need to add it to my preventative maintence list.



I think my PM takes up more time, and money, than BOMBing (just got a new belt and HD idler pully on today).



Could someone please post where to get the kit again.



Thanks,

Ryan
 
Yeah, I'd appreciate the link/phone # for the starter rebuild kit place too... .

It has been fine since it really messed up the other night... . maybe I scared it from swearing at it.

Let me get this straight... . if my starter contacts stick... the starter will keep on going as will the engine too??!!



HD idler pulley? What?/Huh?



Matt
 
Matt,



The HD idler pully is made by practical solutions. At first, I thought why, but after seeing the HD pully compared to the stock pully (I wish I would have taken a few pics) the HD pully is a much better piece. Also the bearing in my stock pully (97,000 miles) were fair. They were very noisy, and seemed to have loosened up a bit.



All in all, for the $50 I spent, I'm glad I put one on. I figure in about 75,000 miles I replace the bearing in the pully, and keep on going.



Here is a link to the PS website:

http://www.psdieselproducts.bizland.com/index.html



BTW - They are great to deal with.



-Ryan
 
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I don't know offhand where to get the starter contact kit, but it's only about $30, think from Arizona(big help huh?) Until you get it rebuilt carry a wrench to disconnect the battery negative terminals in case the starter keeps on going and melts your wiring.
 
starter fix

The price for the complete repair kit as of August was

$29. 95(approx. ) plus $8. 50 shipping. It's an easy fix, just be sure to get the installed contacts as straight as

possible. Mine were a little off and caused the strarter to hang occasionaly. The contacts are straight now

and the starter hasn't given me any more problems.



"In TDR issue #25 (summer 99) on page 18 there is an article on the solenoid repair. I'll quote one relevant

section here:



"Off we go in Roger's 3500... to find Keith Swearingen's Diesel Electric Service Company, at 917 North Pinal

Avenue, Casa Grande, AZ (520-836-8231). Keith is a friendly, knowledgable type that knows everything about

heavy-duty diesel electrical systems. I show him my problem. He goes to his microfiche and quickly asks, "Do

you want just the fixed contact for $5, or the complete repair kit with new movable contacts, spring, both

fixed contacts, insulators and all for $25?" I can't believe my good fortune! "I'll take the complete repair kit," I

stammer, quickly comparing $25 to $350 (part #19907, $24. 38 plus tax and shipping). Keith says that he ships

parts all over the US by United Parcel Service. His shop takes Visa/MC too! Keith goes on to share a tip with

me. "Make sure that when you reinstall the fixed contacts, you let both of them bottom out against the

housing insulator so they will be perfectly level before you tighten up the mounting bolt studs in the elongated

slots. This will prevent one side of the contact hitting the movable contact and not the entire surface. If you

don't, one side or edge won't be able to carry the current required to crank the engine and will burn

prematurely. " That makes sense, I conclude. I pay my $25 and head back to fix the truck. " This was for a '94

but I'm pretty sure it's the same starter. The parts guy listed up above would know I'm sure. He also

mentioned in this article that a new starter was $670 and that you could get a reman for $350 exchange

(according to a Dodge parts guy). Good luck, hope this helps!"

This is from a reply to a post of mine. I just called yesterday and ordered a kit for my starter. Hope this helps.
 
Yet another instance where the members of TDR saved my butt..... you guys/gals rock!

Well, there's another $80 (HD idler/starter fix. . ) down the drain that I was saving for BOMBing. That's okay... . I gotta have the rest of the setup running well before I go and beat the snot out of it.



Thanks again!

Matt - forever in debt to the TDR and it's members.
 
Matt,



I went the same route you are going. Fix all that needs fixin' first before you install some more ponies under the hood.



I think I'm finally ready to install my #5 plate that has been sitting on my bench for about 2 months.



-Ryan
 
I ran it on the dyno today so I guess that constitutes beating on it..... haha So, I didn't really follow my own words of wisdom in that I should have made sure everything else was up to par first. All is well after 3 pulls on the rollers.....



Matt
 
let me get this straight, just so I will be on the same page as everyone else. I thought I was having trouble with my fuel shut down solenoid not wanting to open, but after reading these post and the articles in the last TDR quartely, I did some trouble shooting and found that when putting power to the solenoid manually it worked every time so I checked the relay and after checking it with a meter and manually putting power to it (per my Haynes manual) it worked everytime also, now the part that I'm unclear on, I know that the relay gets a signal from the starter, so I probably need new contacts? In the solenoid? Or a new solenoid? Thanks, Chris... ..... :confused:
 
If your starter is still working fine I would suspect the wiring or a poor connection. There is only one set of contacts in the starter solenoid, if the starter cranks you should be getting power to the relay.
 
That happened to my 95, only the truck wouldn't shut off. It was very dark, and after finding the connector for the shutdown solenoid, the solenoid smoked before I could unplug it and that shut off the motor. then, with solenoid unplugged and key out of ignition, starter started to crank until I took the cables off both batteries. I never leave my truck parked while in gear anymore. Solution: new starter, new shutdown solenoid, no problems. By the way, buy the solenoid from a cummins dealer and pay $270 instead of the $405 the thieves at Dodge want.
 
Is the starter problems in the future for us overvalved ones?

I know, I am out of my box here, and will soon be going back to the overvalved side :) Is the same starter still used on the 24V trucks? I like reading on the 12V forum, just to see what I can expect as my 2001 24V ages. I had a 1968 1/2 ton Dodge, that was fond of the starter sticking and doing the run on. Dang near fried the truck once, I had shut it off and was standing about 50 feet away, when the starter decided to engage with the truck in gear. Of course it soon turned into a big arc welder and all the while I am frantically trying to get the hood open and the battery disconnected. Took away what was left of the starter wires and push started it to get home, I was about 50 miles away. Anyway I replaced several starters and the solenoids over the years on the old Dodge. Just hoping my new truck does not develop this disease. OK, back to the overvalved side.



Shelby
 
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