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Starter or???

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Fuel pressure is good and no fuel pump codes. Sometimes it starts instantly and other times it takes a crank of tow. When taking longer it sounds like it's not turning as fast. Just replaced both Costco Interstate Batteries thinking that was the issue.

Wondering if the starter is getting weak? What about pulling it and doing the Larry B kit?

I did the complete ground wiring update and all connections are good.
 
With a correctly operating VP-44 the engine will fire the second it turns over, just like your Yamaha 9.9 OB motor. Blue Chip Diesel has a VP-44 trouble shooting page on their site.
 
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Wondering if the starter is getting weak? What about pulling it and doing the Larry B kit?

What is the history of your starter? Miles on the truck, miles on the starter. Is it the original Denso starter?

other times it takes a crank of tow.

Not sure what this means - maybe "a crank or two"? If so, that does sound like an electrical connection problem, whether or not it is inside or outside of the starter.

Usually, poor starter contacts will result in "clicks" and a no crank condition. However, this could still be the problem.

One can be fooled by visual inspection and checking the tightness of wiring connections. All may seem well, but electrical continuity may still be lacking. Only a voltage drop test will prove whether or not a connection is electrically sound.

If you have high mileage on the starter and it is still a Denso starter, then the Larry B kit would be worthwhile. Be sure to check the condition of the starter brushes while the starter is on the bench.

- John
 
With a correctly operating VP-44 the engine will fire the second it turns over, just like your Yamaha 9.9 OB motor. Blue Chip Diesel has a VP-44 trouble shooting page on their site.

Unless trying to prime a fuel system we hardly ever heard how a 24V was cranking for an extended time.
 
Original Denso at 170k. It goes seem to be progressively getting worse.

the passenger to drives side positive cable at drivers side crimp connection dots have corrosion. Thinking about cutting crimp off and having new end crimped on.

think I will order the Larry B kit that includes the brushes and get it done as it should be done anyways.

yes sometimes an extra crank or two to start. It does sound less strong when this happens.
 
That's probably it! Corrosion adds resistance which drops voltage! You're probably fighting the same issue I fight living close to the Chesapeake Bay! Salt air is recipe for corrosion! Replace crimp, add hot melt glue than slide on heat shrink for a good seal! I've been doing the hot melt glue trick since I learned from an old timer! (No offense to others) It's cheaper the the heat shrink with it and allows custom lengths. Has served me well and trailer wiring and lights on my running boards! Hope you get it figured out, and sounds like it's worth the starter rebuild!
 
Just spoke to Larry B, he said it sounds like the brushes are going. I just ordered kit #8205 and should be here tomorrow.

I am also going to remove cable cut off the end and have a new end crimped on. Good idea on the hot melt!!!
 
That's probably it! Corrosion adds resistance which drops voltage! You're probably fighting the same issue I fight living close to the Chesapeake Bay! Salt air is recipe for corrosion! Replace crimp, add hot melt glue than slide on heat shrink for a good seal! I've been doing the hot melt glue trick since I learned from an old timer! (No offense to others) It's cheaper the the heat shrink with it and allows custom lengths. Has served me well and trailer wiring and lights on my running boards! Hope you get it figured out, and sounds like it's worth the starter rebuild!

Some heat shrink tubing has a sealer built into that melts when you shrink it on the connector.
 
I'd bet you won't be able to cut it back far enough to get to the good wire and still use it. Hopefully you will. I had to make new cables for mine. I thought my starter was going bad, too, but it was the cables and terminals. All looked good on the outside but the inside was a different story. You can buy cable, shrink tube, terminals, and solder cheaper than assembled cables. All you need is a propane torch and a vise.
 
When comes time to replace mine, gonna spend the extra for welding cable. More conductors and flexible! Now you can get in mant different colors. Yes @SnoKing, you can get them with sealant in them, But why when you can save $ with hot melt! The hot melt works itself into the wire along with sealing the heat shrink. Can make them as long or short as needed! In an emergency, hot melt can insulate it enough to get home for a more permanent repair. Just another tool in the tool box!
 
I'd bet you won't be able to cut it back far enough to get to the good wire and still use it. Hopefully you will. I had to make new cables for mine. I thought my starter was going bad, too, but it was the cables and terminals. All looked good on the outside but the inside was a different story. You can buy cable, shrink tube, terminals, and solder cheaper than assembled cables. All you need is a propane torch and a vise.


Fingers crossed as the negative that showed corrosion was only an inch.
 
@Cummins12V98, Not doubting that you got it crimped with the vise, but this tool has worked great for me when replace large lugs on welding cable and battery leads; https://remybattery.com/hammer-crimping-tool-3925.html
Price is worth having in the tool box for just such occasions! Can be found on Amazon, EBAY and many other sites. when I first got mine, I crimped a lug and then cut to see if it was a solid crimp like the selling ad showed, it matched! Other the soldering, don't think you could get better connection. Good luck with rebuild, standing be for the updates.
 
@Cummins12V98, Not doubting that you got it crimped with the vise, but this tool has worked great for me when replace large lugs on welding cable and battery leads; https://remybattery.com/hammer-crimping-tool-3925.html
Price is worth having in the tool box for just such occasions! Can be found on Amazon, EBAY and many other sites. when I first got mine, I crimped a lug and then cut to see if it was a solid crimp like the selling ad showed, it matched! Other the soldering, don't think you could get better connection. Good luck with rebuild, standing be for the updates.


Have one. Not exactly the same, just a bit older and a bit beefier. Not one complaint.
 
I have one of those hammer one plus a handheld hydraulic one. The hydraulic one is easier to use and can be used on an "installed" cable. After retirement worked on boat electrical and electronic repair/build projects.
 
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