Starter Replacement

[Killgore]

Crap! Call Gould Gear & Electric in Murphy, NC (574) 849-0453. They wrote the book, or rather made the CD, on replacement of starter contacts. If anybody will steer you right, they will.

- Ed

 

[18Dodger18]

Might check the starter contacts. Same problem I had several years ago with my '94. Fixed problem for $9.95

 

[Killgore]

The solenoid contacts from Gould are heavy duty and appear to be a better than original. Geno's sells the Gould repair kits (for earlier models) but I'm sure they wouldn't mind answering any questions you might have. Ask for Brandon or Scott.

- Ed

 

[petersonj]

The starter contact rebuild kits from Geno's are a great recommendation and have fixed many starting problems, but unfortunately they seem to be only available for '89-06' 5.9 Cummins.

I have a friend with a 2007 5.9 that had an intermittent starting problem and one time the truck had to be towed. The next day, of course, it started fine. He brought the truck to me and I performed voltage drop tests and load tested the batteries and everything checked out as it should. Any problem in the starter electrical control circuitry still needed to be addressed, but I told him that the starter contacts were likely to be the problem.

A reputable local auto-electric shop said that a number from the starter would be required to get the correct parts. I removed the starter (a Denso, but looked much different than I expected) and took it to the shop and this is when I found out that a kit was not offered. After spending much time researching, the shop representative found that rebuilt starters were available but most starters were coming to them as new - apparently to begin flooding the market with cores.

At this point the new starter was not purchased and I started to disassemble the old starter, but I could finish as it was beyond my capabilities and I did not want to damage it. I did notice that the internal contact parts that I could see were in good condition, so I put the starter back together and re-installed it.

I set up a remote jumper system directly from the battery to the starter so in case of a no-crank situation the owner could use the jumper to bypass the neutral safety switch and starter relay as a troubleshooting tool.

I went to the trouble of setting up the remote jumper system because I was not convinced that it was a starter problem. It turns out that a week later he had his automatic transmission serviced and the shop replaced the neutral safety switch because fluid had leaked into the electrical part of the switch and contaminated the contacts. The truck has been used for many road trips since the switch replacement and the no-crank condition has not been repeated.

Anyway, since the original post stated that it is a 2011 truck, there may not be a starter contact kit available and it very well may mean that a starter replacement will be expensive... all the more reason to take the time and diagnose the problem correctly.

- John

 

[Killgore]

Of course we don't know which transmission the OP has in his truck, but not long ago there was a recall on a clutch interlock (?) spring. Could this be related to a 'no start' situation?

 

[Freebore]

Powermaster starters 245 from summit racing brand new,just installed one on my 03,starts quicker,spins over faster than oem.

I've used Powermaster starters in the past with excellent results. They appeared to be based on the Denso design. I spoke with them before purchasing and at the time they were built in the Chicago area. Here's a snapshot from their catalog:

 

[Shelby Griggs]

LarryB's has these brand new: http://www.fostertruck.com/2007-2010-dodge-oem-denso-new-starter.html for $561, not cheap, BUT not $1400 either.

 

[Killgore]

I fear our OP has wandered off and is now being subjected to cruel and unusual punishment.

 

[rowekmr]

I fear our OP has wandered off and is now being subjected to cruel and unusual punishment.

Yes it is cruel the truck isn't ready. Tech also said he had to use the hammer (the starter) to start the truck. Was told that after new starter installed he started it 4 times then there was smoke (or dust truck is covered with it) coming from the dash near the switch. Then the ignition switch became suspect also so they ordered one but further looking he said the TIPM wasn't looking good either. So he ordered one of those too and will replace that first. He said the wiring looked corroded/bad/green. To be honest I have never heard of a TIPM but just did a quick google search to see that those can also cause electrical gremlins. So now it is TIPM first then maybe ignition switch.

 

[Killgore]

Ouch! TIPM's can provide homes for ghosts. If you had a 2006 I would consider that a place to look but I don't know anything about a 2011 although any corrosion is not good. Jumper cables straight from the batteries to the starter would quickly confirm or deny whether the TIPM was problematic, maybe, and also the switch. You have reached an in extremis situation that usually results in a cold sweat on my part. I'm afraid you are in the process of being violated.

- Ed

 

[SnoKing]

Lets see, bill will include starter, ignition sw, TIPM maybe more. 3-4K and counting. Should have traded it in.

 

[seafish]

You know, I DID mean to say to check your ignition switch,,,it is a likely suspect given your symptoms...in fact more likely then the starter itself.

 

[rowekmr]

Lets see, bill will include starter, ignition sw, TIPM maybe more. 3-4K and counting. Should have traded it in.

Traded it in I just got it lol I bought it expecting it would need some repairs and I wasn’t disappointed

 

[rowekmr]

You know, I DID mean to say to check your ignition switch,,,it is a likely suspect given your symptoms...in fact more likely then the starter itself.

I did consider it until I had to hammer the starter to get it to start. Maybe all the turning to attempt to start helped it fail. It was taking 20+ key turns before it would crank. Well everything I replace hopefully will insure it’s reliability. After 200k miles I’d expect some components will need replaced.

 

[NIsaacs]

Green corroded wires on a 2011 should not be....unless this might apply: https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/259506-Need-help-with-2011-Ram-2500-Issues?p=2520864#post2520864

Nick

 

[Killgore]

Excellent point, Nick.

 

[rowekmr]

After the new TIPM it ran well but had a light on for seat belt and airbag. I was told to bring it back the next day for reprogram but it cut out later on that day. Took it back in and they reprogrammed the TIPM and it has been running fine so since. I hope I got rid of all the electrical gremlins lol