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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Starter woes, I think.

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Ok, in the past week or so, I have been experiencing a starting problem. That being, when I turn the key theres nothing, then when I turn it again, it fires. Now I did find a very loose neg cable on my drivers side battery and have since made the adjustment. It started fine for 2-3days w/no problems, then it did it again yesterday. I have also heard, that if either cable that runs to the starter is corroded inside, the starter will malfunction. With almost 100k on my trk, I'm asking if it is a real possibilty that the starter is the problem or it is the cables. I dont have any qualms about pulling the starter and having it rebuilt, if I can find a place around Chicago to do it, most places just want to replece it. I will be changing out the cables too. All suggestions, remedies and solutions are greatly appreciated. Rattle on everyone!!
 
My feeling is that you have a corrosion/connection problem. Wouldn't hurt to pull the starter and replace the contacts also. If you can pull the starter you've done the hard part, replacing the contacts is easy.
 
yup, My starter stoped at 95k. Both my batteries had a dead cell then the next week after I replaced both batteries the click click start... time to look at the starter. One good post and the other had about 1/16 of metal to go! Didn't have time to wait for larger contact so i picked up a $5. 00 contact across the counter at a starter repair shop. I know this will happen again in another 90-100k so I plan to order the plunger along with the larger surface area contacts. I be ready next time!
 
I got the order from Larry B last night from Foster truck..... WOW this is some serious contacts. . And that plunger is no cheap thing either... .



Rick
 
I have the same problem too.

I have had the starter stay engaged a few times and now have that click the first time cranking, second time she always goes. The local repair shop wants more for standard contacts than Larry B so guees I will go with them and replace the plunger too.



Someone help me out here, I thought that if contacts were bigger they handle more current. The ones Larry sells are 24 volt starters, seems to me they would have to handle less current since the voltage is higher. I know I must have something wrong. Opinions?
 
Roger



The contacts I supply are designed for 24volt and the same amperage. They are about 90% bigger than the stock ones. Here's a comparison picture. You can also go >HERE< for install instructions.

Larry



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proskeeterman,

If starter is problem then the contact points for the starter solenoid is all you should need. Starter will last the lifetime of truck/engine as long as it does't get fried.



Usually if starter/starter solenoid is problem a clicking sound will be heard unless it gone all the way. ( contact points)



No sound as in dead silence besides being really dead battery is usually related wires/connectors/relay and ignition switch.
 
I agree with Thomas for the wires.



I had a pseudo-pro install an immobilizer in 1996. In 1999, dead silent, I found that the cables he ran were so tight that they broke by the repeated movement of the tilt steering. A month ago dead silent again, I found that some other wires were just twisted and taped together instead of soldered.



Next time, listen to your buzzer: if it's dead too it's probably a wiring problem in the steering column.



Good luck! Dan
 
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