Starting my hub removal

[MarkEkberg]

I am at the point where I need the act of god to get the hub off.

I can't get the rotor separated from the hub, but I figure I can separate on a bench easier.

I tried the " push the bolt with socket/extension " method last night without truck running. I could not get enough force to move the hub at all. Are people using the "power" steering of a running truck?

So far it has been a easy job.

 

[cerberusiam]

You have to have the truck running. Work back and forth across the hub using the PS assist. Just don't jam the wheel real hard against the restriction. Couple of short bumps then move the socket\extenesion to the opposite bolt.

 

[AH64ID]

Yup, I did the power steering method as well.

Just want to clarify that you are talking about removing the sealed wheel bearing from the knuckle correct?

 

[jhenderson]

I have had to use the power steering method in conjunction with a 5lb hammer. 2 people : 1 runs the steering, 1 runs the hammer. Shock the hub while it's under tension from power steering. Comes loose with a bang.

 

[jgillott]

The good news is, after you have had them off a couple of times, they tend to get a little easier.

 

[DennyDay]

The good news is, after you have had them off a couple of times, they tend to get a little easier.

Especially if you use a little anti-seize on the bolts when you re-assemble - just re-torque them to spec.

 

[cerberusiam]

use a little anti-seize

No, no, no!! A LOT of anti-seize on every surface. Use a tube per side and then they just fall out out the next time. Do not spare the anti-seize, especially in salt country. Slather that stuff on there until it fairly glows in the dark. :-laf

 

[MGreer]

When I did mine last year I used the ps assist and a sledge hammer. I used an 8 pound sledge and it was like hitting an anvil with a rubber mallet. The 16 pound sledge finally moved the hub. Once the hub started moving I put drove a screw driver between the hub and knuckle which helped move the hub. I also presoaked the hub for a couple of weeks before but it didn't seem to help.
Be careful with the power steering method, there are some small spot welds on the frame that can break, at least on my truck they did.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

Anti-seize is best when high heat is encountered. A very water resistant high pressure chassis grease is fine between the hubs and housings. The light press fit or slight slip fit means that a lot of lube will just translate into more being squeezed out. I used LE3752, a thick grease.

 

[MarkEkberg]

That is what I was figuring...................... I have zip tied two sockets with extensions on them to a top and bottom bolt on opposing sides. I am hoping they will sta in place so I can run the wheel.

Will find out tonight. If it pops out nicely this will be a simple job. Truck has been in the garage for a while, but I only have the occasional hour to work on it.

 

[MarkEkberg]

Well...... My idea worked. Had two sockets, two extensions, on opposing corners of the hub. It took all of two turns back and forth. I thought they had slipped out, but then I realized the hub had pushed out an inch or so. Amazing how well that worked.

Easy to bang the rotor off once the hub was out.

Got some grease in the hub. Things seem a little rough? Not sure how much grease to throw in there, but I did about 10 pumps or so into the ABS hole.

Going to replace ujoints in the next couple days and chance greasing the hub. The hub is easy enough to get to if my noise still persists after joint replacement. Never done this style, always have had the clip on the outside. I am sure there is a youtube on it.

Going to video the drivers side and throw it on youtube. Lots of videos on there about this, but none are good. Hopefully mine will be better?

 

[cerberusiam]

If the bearing feels rough turning it by hand you might as well replace it now, it will not get better even with grease. Lot of stress on the bearings and once they start going it is only a matter of time.

 

[MarkEkberg]

Further progress yesterday. The u-joint were a complete bear, but I got them out after watching a few tricks on youtube. Don't know where I would be without youtube.


So I am all set to buy some parts and throw the pass side back together. I hope to be able to share my experiences here and help someone in the future with this job. I was not looking forward to it, but it went quite well. Hard part is done getting everything out. It is easy putting new parts back in.

 

[Kry226]

Use this tool next time and save your sockets and extensions. I destroyed several my first go-round. Lifesaver here.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...roup_ID=682401&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

 

[MarkEkberg]

Never knew such a thing existed? Doubt I will need that seeing that I use neverseize on everything I put back together on a car.

 

[cerberusiam]

Doubt I will need that seeing that I use neverseize on everything I put back together on a car.

Even with anti-sieze the easiest way to get that hub off again will be the power steering. They are a tight fit and after they have been together it takes a good sized slide hammer to pop them loose it it will.

 

[MarkEkberg]

Sooooooo.. How do you line up the splines from the axle to the pumpkin?

I have tried everything from trying to shim it to pry bars etc. Can't get the end of the axle up (I assume) to get in the hole.......... No jokes till I finish. Ok now no jokes.

 

[cerberusiam]

They are pre-aligned by a guide that will get it close, then, you just have to work it around until it starts into the splines. It can be loads of fun to get started and it is a bit sticky to start. Make sure you can get the splines started on the hub before installing the axle shaft, that is even worse if the fit is not perfect.

 

[MarkEkberg]

Well I was being dumb. I thought you should be able to push the axle right into place. Nope, it needed a tappy tap with a soft blow to seat it into place.

Pass side done tonight. Start tearing the driver side apart tomorrow.

 

[McDermott]

On my 2005, and a friend's 2006, a heavy duty air hammer with blunt tip was used to work out the wheel bearing from the knuckle. Took the mechanic about 1/2 hour each side to work them out. They were rusty and stuck in real good.

Each time we replaced the whole wheel bearing assemblies with new full assemblies. So we didn't care that the bearing assembly was beat to heck. One mechanic used a few of the bolts but ended up damaging the threads a bit with the air hammer. He just chased them and they worked fine on reassembly.

I am concerned with damaging the PS unit or the structure if the wheel bearing is rusted into the knuckle. If it doesn't come out, what part of the steering setup flexes to take the force? Someone mentioned spot welds above. I may not have seen that kind of damage to the truck. Just seems risky. You kinda need to be able to steer your truck!