Here I am

starting problem attitude - ok on downhill, no prime on uphill

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

275 HP injector upgrade questions

Need help with wiring, guage install...

Status
Not open for further replies.
Have an intermittent starting problem: when truck has been parked with nose on uphill angle (slight) experience "loss of prime" - have to manually prime to start. No loss of power when running. No visible fuel leaks, and no loose connections that I can find. No similar problem when truck has been parked nose downhill. Ideas??????????
 
This happened to me- thought it was the lift pump, but after I got the pump and the time to have a buddy replace it, it ended up being a cracked fuel return line. You may not be able to smell or see the leak just yet. That was the story with mine. I would check (if you haven't yet) all the fuel lines. Even after mine was visibly leaking, the lines looked okay until I got in there and moved em around. They were all cracked to hell.



Kev
 
Just experienced this same problem exactly. . We were on vacation in Arkansas when it started or rather would not start after parking nose uphill over night. Park nose down hill and she would lite right off and run fine.

I called Cummins in Ind. and the first thing he said after I told him the problem and that I had just changed the fuel lines was the lift pump was letting fuel bleed off. So I got the pump replaced and also had the lines checked and it never did it again.

It did cost a little more to have it done because the shop that did the fuel lines had taken off some brackets and just made a total mess out of the job. I told the mech. (Mid-South Cummins,,Little Rock Ark) to fix the mess ups, also replace the filter and give it a good once over to check for anything else. It cost me an hour labor for corrections that he had to do.

But when I pulled out on to the street, I knew that it had been done right. Mid-South encourages customers to come into the shop and watch their staff while they work on your vehicle. .



Sorry for the long post, but I was impressed with the service that I got. .



Rick
 
Thanks for the input. I now know where to begin looking. Haven't had the opportunity today to begin probing again. I'm curious: what's the going rate (parts + labor) for (a) lift pump, and (b) fuel line replacement? Sounds like both are potential problem areas, so if I'm correcting one I might as well address the second (assuming we're not talking major $$).



Thanks
 
Having had the lift pump and lines replaced since a Jan. '00, DC charged me a grand total of $710 & change P&L. After tinkering with my overflow valve recently and the fact my return line began LEAKING within a couple of months of the pump replacement , I think DC sold me a new pump to replace a non-defective pump. I still have the original just in case.
 
The lift pump and labor was about $453. 00, but that was with an extra hour of labor for them to straighten up the last shops mess ups. Labor at Mid South Cummins for our trucks is $84 hr. So you knock off a hour for the corrections, some time for a filter change and a hose replacement that looked like it had rubbed a little...



Rick
 
Thanks for the replies and useful info...

I was in/under the truck again today and still cannot find any evidence of leak, nor can I detect cracking fuel lines/hoses. I guess I'll give our Cummins South service center a call...
 
There are several components if going south will give ame symptoms of hard starting. Fuel lines, transfer pump, overflow valve, any fuel leak (lines, filter, water sensor, any of the banjo bolts) injector pump could be bleeding down inside.



Your return fuel line will be cracked on the head side, this is very hard to see from any position. If your lines have never been changed do it now.

Also on fuel line before it actually leaks fuel it can suck air causing loss of prime.



Fuel lines replacements should cost around $150, If you do it yourself $5 to $10 buck depending what type of line you replace them with.

Do not let them put your typical rubber fuel hose on again they can not take the heat off the head. I used transmission rubber hose it will take more heat (5 bucks for 36 inches and several hors of work).



The first 3 on the list should be the ones to check out first.



I had same symptoms the problem was the fuel lines next time it mite be tranfer pump or overflow valve and hopefully not the injector pump (knocking on a lot of wood).
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top