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Starting problem (electrical)

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Starting problem (electrical) -- (FIXED)

A bunch of minds has to be better than mine alone.



Went out to start the truck, no click, no crank, no nothing except "Check Engine" light.



Battery voltage 12. 75.



I put the ignition switch to the "Run" position, pulled the starter relay (easiest thing to grab) and jumpered pin 30 to 87 on the plug - the engine cranked and started immediately and ran. Fine, I know the starter and solenoid are ok.



I jumpered battery + and - to the relay on the test bench - meter on pins 30 & 87 show continuity. Remove the + and the meter shows open. Proves the relay is ok.



I put the meter to pin 86 on the start relay plug and battery ground - turned the key and get nothing, where I would have expected some positive voltage enough to pull in the relay contacts. I kept the key all the way over while I moved the shift selector from Park to Neutral and back - no change on the meter.



What else is there besides the ignition switch and the transmission neutral/park sensor? Seems to me the more likely problem would be the ignition switch.



How big a deal is it to replace the ignition switch? I've never been in the column before.



Comments appreciated. I'll post more findings as I get to them.



Tx, DBF
 
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Owen,

Sounds like what happened to mine a couple of weeks ago... . does the switch feel ok when you try to start it? Mine felt odd. . like it wasn't spinging back with authority...

My problem ended up being the lock cylinder... . the little do-dad on the end that actually moves the tang on the switch had cracked and was binding in the switch housing.

Piece of cake to remove and/or replace...

BUT...

To remove the switch you need a torx bit for a "tamper proof" screw... . the screw has a pimple in the middle of the torx shape and you need a bit with a hole in it to remove/re-install the 3 screws. (good thing my son has all these bits... I forget what number. . 20 perhaps?)



If you have a Chilton's/Mitchell/factory manual the proceedure is detailed. . read and follow exactly (I have experience here :-laf ).

If not advise me in your reply and I'll detail the proceedure if ya need it.



Oh yes... the cylinder had to go to a locksmith because it came unkeyed... . so it still uses the original key. ($25 for the locksmith time)



Jay
 
Hi, Jay!



Yeah, the key action does feel a little sloppy, but it's been sloppy for some time. Maybe it just got to be too much.



I'll get one of those tamper-proof suckers. The service manual gives a Snap-On number that has a "20" in the middle, so I suspect you're right.



I found the procedure for replacing the ignition switch; thanks for the offer.



More later.....



A Happy New Year to all the Torrington tribe... .





DBF/Owen
 
Owen... thanks. Same to you.

BTW Deb got the digital Rebel from our son... had to give him the G2 as part of the deal. Now I'm shopping for an external hard drive... .

Jay
 
I just went through the same thing more or less. Take and drop your fuse box check to see if you have power on fuse 3 with the key on. If you don't you or at least I had a short in the wire before the fusible link. Right where it comes out of the splitter(for lack of a better term). You can trace it from the battery to along your fender to where it splits into 3 or 4 wires then goes into the fusible links.
 
Thanks, Mudcat. Power was where it was supposed to be.



Jay, you were right on the money. The doo-dad on the end of the key cylinder had a piece cracked off, which fell down into the cavity. Lock shop keyed up a new one for $37. 56. Put it in and she starts like she ought to.



Only one problem - the lock guy took a shortcut and left out the cylinder retaining pin, so now the key cylinder pops out a little as you go to the "on" position. I'll have to go back Monday and see what we can do there.



Jay, please tell me when anything else fails on your truck so I can look for it to happen on mine two weeks later. :)



Owen/DBF
 
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