Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Starting Problem FOLLOW-UP

[ktimmer]

As described yesterday, I am still unable to start my truck but have narrowed down some issues; to wit: I have NO wipers, radio, starter, instrument panel or fuel pump.



I do have lights, buzzers/chimes/mirrors that work, seat works. ALL fuses behind panel adjacent to headlite switch check out ok. Main fuses in box under hood on drivers side check out ok. The only fusible links found (2) beneath driver's side battery check out ok. Switched some of the relays in box beneath hood with same results. Disconnected Turbo Diesel Saver with no change.



Obviously, I have blown something somewhere but am not having any luck. I think it may be a fusible link somewhere but am not finding it.



Any Ideas?? Thanks

 

[WestTN]

I believe the CTM is common to all these systems. My factory manuals are currently at home and I am not. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful.



Good luck.

 

[TGibbs]

I would go back to the relays, make sure you tried them all in seperate ones and they are the same relays. From there could it be a power wire that is burnt somewhere?

 

[TGibbs]

Have you tried the starter by jumping to small wire connected to the starter?

 

[ktimmer]

Fellow TDR members, thanks for your responses.

Mr. McCormick, I am researching the factory manual but am not finding that the starter is part of the CTM. (it may be but I am still looking)

Mr. TGibbs, I have not tried all the relays, just switched a couple. I have not tried jumping to the small starter wires.



I have actually been spending all my time checking all my previous wiring jobs and fuses, including the painless wiring box & some single fuse connections. I have owned this truck since new and have(as most fellow members) many areas to look into. This is the first time I went directly to the small fuse box on the dash for any hook up other than gauge lites. The CTM is certainly suspect and am into the shop manual on that.



I will continue to check relays further and will look for a burnt out wire. Thanks for your suggestions and I will give you an update time permiting. Work interferes with my life for some reason.



Ken Timmer

 

[ktimmer]

Gentlemen,

After consulting the manual I took a circuit lite probe to the starter relay in the PDC. I have power there at the correct terminal However I have no power in the indicated circuit when the switch is in the 'start' position. According to the manual I have a short circuit in the ignition switch.



I now have to check the ignition switch which I will do tomorrow.



Things are looking up!!



Thanks again!!

 

[ASimpson]

Check for broken wires in the steering column. thats where mine was would start and run with the wheel tilted down but tilt it up and it died instantly. Not fun headed right towards the front door of a gas station.

 

[ktimmer]

Thanks, I will look for broken wires, although I was in there this weekend disconnecting the Turbo Life Saver and then reconnected it all.

Any idea what an ignition switch costs??



Thanks



Ken Timmer

 

[Thomas]

. . . Any idea what an ignition switch costs?? . . .

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Steering column - Shroud switches and levers - Ignition switch
Ignition switch 1997 - 2001


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[FYarcho]

I would be looking at the strong possiblity of a bad ignition switch

 

[ktimmer]

Gentlemen



Well it is not the ignition switch as I tried one tonite. Still no instruments and no starter. I will start over in the morning... ... ... . bummer.



Ken Timmer

 

[fest3er]

Tracing it through the SM:
- There is a clutch pedal position switch bypass jumper (you have auto)
- The park/neutral position switch
- Fuse #2 in the PDC
- Connectors C125 and C126, left side of dash
- flat connector on column to switch
- Ground G100 (below-ish left battery)
- Ground G101 (behind-ish left battery)

If you have power where it should be and you are fairly certain the wiring is OK, the next place to look is your grounds. And, on my '98 12V, G101 was rather dicey after 9 years. I haven't checked G100 yet; it might be why my CC doesn't work.

Basically, get an ohm meter and clamp one lead to the neg. battery cable. Then check various ground points on the engine, frame and body. If you see more than around 5 ohms, find the faulty ground connection and clean it up. With vehicles this old, I'm happy with 1-2 ohms, and up to 5 won't worry me; 45K ohms is a sure sign something is wrong.