Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Starting Problem

[Todd T]

NO, its not bad. the only thing is if you can find someone to borrow a barring tool from. the alternater bolt has never worked well for me. i bought the tool from Cummins and have used it several times now between my 4 trucks. its a must have for timing a 12V'r.



the VP is straight forward. you'll need a puller to get the pump gear off. I made mine out of some scrap stock i had laying around. takes about 2-3 hours to do one. use a mirror to make sure you get the key in the groove in the pump gear. again barring the engine is the best way to get the key alligned. take it off with the key facing up and move your new pump around so its on top too and put it back together.



the only thing i couldnt find was the proper torque setting for the pump nut. i put mine to 90ft lbs until my manual gets here. (i gave my last one away in my daze from Ford owning)

 

[MKizziah]

Hi Joe,



Same boat as you !! . Just ordered a vp44 from US Diesel for 1095. 00 . When ahead and got stage 2 injectors also . . figured since I have to pull the plumbing might as well spend another 350. 00 for 80+ hp !. Should save the difference in labor doing it myself.



Been doing some reading on the 98. 5 VP44 R&R. . looks rather straight forward, not all the timing issues with 12V. Appears the the keyway is the most difficult. Got a Haynes Manual. good step by step instructions. . Here's a link I found with some other tips and pics

http://www.nwbombers.com/membersites/kent/vp44.html

Gonna go for it this weekend... Let me know how things turn out for you !!



Cheers,

Matt

 

[J.Keith]

This has turned into "Injector Pump Replacment"

Well I got the pump early so I started on it tonight. Everything was going so smoothly :-laf Then I dropped the pump shaft washer. Not outside either. Of course it had to fall down the front cover :{ Ticked me off. spent 2 hrs removing the front cover to get the stupid thing out. So I will finish in the morning. Is there any proscribed method for bleeding the air out of the high pressure lines?





I never even thought about doing the injectors at the same time. What is a good upgrade brand? I don't know hardly anything about performance upgrades for this, so any help or suggestions are welcome

Thanks guys

Joe

 

[Todd T]

just use the key trick to cycle the pump for a couple long cycles. then try to light it. just crank for a few (10) seconds at a time. after a few crank cycles do the long cycle of the pump again. it should light after several attemps. (five of so)



just let it idle until it cleans out and runs smooth. check for leaks and your done.



on edit: you should stick to the pump to make sure it fixes the problem you have spent all this time and money on before you throw another variable in the mix. (injectors) Just my opinion, do what you like!

 

[John - K5AWO]

When you guys change the VP44, you will find starting it up again a lot easier if you back off #1, #3, #5 injectors so the VP44 can get rid of the air faster. Of course, when it does start it is going to be ragged, but just let it run and tighten up the injectors. It will take several minutes before it settles down to a smooth idle.

 

[Lockard]

I am curretnly experienceing the same problem. I bought a VP-44, but haven't installed yet becuase I'm not convinced that it is casing this issue. I noticed that the Tach is bouncing very slightly at idel which may indicate the Camsahft position sensor is goign a little but I replace that only 30K ago so i hope it is still OK. MY Crankshaft Pos ssensor is origianl at 136K so maybe that is the issue. I already tried the starter fuse and that didin;t do it. This all started when I installed a new LP and injectors and had to crank the truck excessively to start. I thought I had burned the starter or the VP from all the cranking. I did Larry B's kit on the starter and checked all the lines to no avail. I think I'll try the CPS next then the VP.

 

[CStewart]

Hard start

I got a hard start problem on mine after I put the FASS on it. It would take quite a bit of cranking after it sat for while, until the fuel pressure came up. My problem was in the fitting on the top of the fuel module that the FASS suction hose attaches. I rebuilt my module and no more problems, starts right up no matter how long it sits.



Chris

 

[SpicyJam]

MKizziah, I would not by-pass the relay on the wiring harness. The reason Brad put it on is because the FASS draws extra amperage, if the computer sees the draw it will not let the VP talk with the computer. Also the draw can damage the computer. Just giving you info on what I was told.



Also there is a check ball in the FASS, it is with the spring. If you have a FASS with the new relayed wiring harness, then you have the bigger spring in too.

 

[GregFisher]

Sounds Like You Blew The Diaphram Out Inside The Vp44. Its The #1 Failure We See With This Complaint, The Diaphram Gets A Crack In It Which Seems To Expand When Hot And Prevents The Hyd Head From Getting A Proper Charge Of Fuel.

 

[vette75406]

I have a similiar problem as the rest of you . extra crank time seems to have started after lift pump replacement, and lately (last 2 days) has only done it when cold , bump start does not seem to cure the problem either , it was doing it hot and cold but got better after a filter replacement that was done only to make sure oring and cap were correctly installed .









________________________________________________

2000 QC 4X4 LWB AUTO MAGNAFLOW LIGHTFORCE

 

[J.Keith]

Well guys it was the VP44.

Once I got it started and all the air out it ran better than it ever has.

I didn't tell you before because I knew ya'll would give me a hard time, but I put in a used pump that I bought on Ebay. Only $280 out of a wrecked truck. It was a long shot but it paid off. My only question is, is the VP44 any different in a H. O truck? The reason I ask is my truck has more power than it ever had and it smokes more under load. Didn't lose any fuel mileage though.

Well it works great now so I'm happy.

Good for another 200k

 

[Todd T]

Yes, there is a difference. the onboard computer has different parameters on each. i've heard there are idle issues when mixing these pumps.



that's about all i know on the subject

 

[SpicyJam]

The H. O. VP44 is smaller, meaning it delivers less fuel. The plunger size and stroke are less in a H. O.

 

[MKizziah]

VP44 Update

Hi Joe,



Glad to hear your up and running !!. Just got back from a test drive after VP44 R&R . Just like new only better !! Way more responsive than I remember.



I did find a broken weld on the rear pump bracket. I kinda doubt that had any connection to the pump failure. Maybe someone here has seen the same bracket failure???



Tomorrow the DDII injectors go in

I couldn't believe how easy these 24v's are to work on. took me about 3hrs to do the whole thing, including rewelding the bracket, oil change, VP44 R&R, and modified the air filter housing. 6 2in breather holes in the bottom of the air box.



Thank You to all the TDR members for the great advice !!



Cheers,

Matt

 

[tractorface]

mine was broken also

Was going to weld mine but was advised that the bracket was important so... ... spent $54. 00 on the updated brackets which are much stronger and look like some thought went into them.

 

[MKizziah]

Bracket

tractorface,



After inspecting the bracket, found that the original welds had cracked through the weld itself. Appeared the weld was brittle ( too hot). There where just two tack welds, top & bottom of the round threaded piece to the flat bracket that bolts to the block. Pretty cheesy and not build for strength.



I vee cut and rewelded it on all four sides that contact the plate. Should be bulletproof. Gonna pull it and reinpect when I install new injectors.



I wonder if broken bracket was contributed to the VP44 failure??

How many other TDR members have found the bracket broken when R&Ring the VP44 ??



Cheers,

Matt