Starting

[grtescpa]

I have been noticing that my diesel cranks a
few times more than normal to start. My friend has the same Dodge as I do and his starts on the first crank. The valves were adjusted at 25K and the truck now has 57k. I don't think its a valve clerance problem. Filter is changed every 9k and the engine oil was switched over to Amsoil at 40k. It gets changed every 4k. The truck runs great.
Never had the pump time checked. Does the injector pump loose its time after break in?
All advice welcome. Thanks

 

[illflem]

I've found that as the batteries get near the end of their life this starts to happen. It seems like the engine needs the full rpm of the starter motor to start rapidly,once it slows just a little it translates into a much longer crank time. This problem will get worse and worse as the batteries deteriorate,but may improve when the weather warms. My bet is that you will need to replace your batteries by next fall. Check both ends of all the connections in the meantime. Just one failing battery will bring the other one down,always replace both at the same time.

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95' 25004X4,AT,Driftwood,Banks Stinger,Warn fender flairs and running boards(work truck)
95 3500,5 speed 3:54,BD E-brake,Driftwood,Banks&Psycotty,34,000 GCVW apple and tractor hauler(works harder truck)

[This message has been edited by illflem (edited 02-05-2001). ]

 

[radixr]

In general, your pump timing will not change with the passage of time (miles). Your rubber fuel supply/return lines may have a small leak which will cause you to lose prime when the engine is shut off. Then you have to crank to regain prime. These lines are notorious for developing leaks and will eventually need to be replaced.

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1996 Dodge 2500 4X4 SC, SLT, Cummins 12V, 5-spd. , JRE 4" exhaust (my kitty ran away into the woods and the muffler fell off!), TST 280 HP/685 Ft-Lb Uprate Kit, AFC Spring Kit, Horton Fan Clutch, Jacobs/Ram Exhaust Brake, MagHytec Differential Cover, Prime-Loc, Rancho RS9000 Shocks, Combo Gauge, K&N Air Filter, Brite-Box, Geno's finger-touch oil pan drain plug, Optima Yellow Tops, no turbo silencer ring, full-time fog lights.

 

[Swamp Donkey]

Check your idle, if it is kinda low, it will take more to start it as well. Try giving it a little fuel when starting, about 1/8 throttle and it may fire up real quick. Turn up your idle if the 1/8 throttle trick works. Worked for me anyways... .

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John McEachern
Fort St John B. C. Canada
1998 12v, 4X4, QC, auto w/tc switch, air, tilt, cruise, 3. 55 gears, TST #6, Isspro boost/pyro/transmission gauges, BD VB&TC, CC industries headache rack and rails, JVC KD-SX949 Cd player, forest green, Brigestone Dueler M/T's 285/75/16, Eagle 16x8 rims, K&N airfilter.

 

[adiabatic]

In my case, it was the batteries. It is not easy to tell until you put in two new ones. I got two Optima Red tops. (The yellows are not needed unless you drive an ambulance at night).
BTW I see that the 96 B-series maintenance manual by Cummins suggests WOT for starts at less than 60 deg F. Never tried it.

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1997 4x4 CC 5spd, CPL1553 pump, Horton fan, Sport headlamps, Optima RedTops, 98 shift levers and console, RS5000 shocks, Yaesu VHF radio, and BCT7 scanner in the overhead console... N7DAL.

 

[Skydiver]

Also have found that when starting depressing the pedal 1/4 way makes the engine crank in 1 second. Without touching the throttle it takes about 3 seconds to start. Make sure fuel filter is not clogged or starting will be real time consuming. My 96 cummins is the easist starting diesel I have ever owned. By the way I had purchased some very dirty last summer and fuel filter clogged fast. May want to carry a spare when traveling. Good luck

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96 3500 Feline deceased. Ready to upgrade. 86K. auto,3. 54,Ext. cab.
K&N air,Star wheel spun,silencer ring hanging on a nail.
Truck looks just like the truck on left side of page 6 issue 31.

 

[grtescpa]

Originally posted by illflem:
I've found that as the batteries get near the end of their life this starts to happen. It seems like the engine needs the full rpm of the starter motor to start rapidly,once it slows just a little it translates into a much longer crank time. This problem will get worse and worse as the batteries deteriorate,but may improve when the weather warms. My bet is that you will need to replace your batteries by next fall. Check both ends of all the connections in the meantime. Just one failing battery will bring the other one down,always replace both at the same time.

Yep your right. The bats are the original from 97. I keep the terminals clean but I guess iys time. Thanks

 

[Hogan]

Originally posted by Skydiver:
Also have found that when starting depressing the pedal 1/4 way makes the engine crank in 1 second. Without touching the throttle it takes about 3 seconds to start. Make sure fuel filter is not clogged or starting will be real time consuming. My 96 cummins is the easist starting diesel I have ever owned. By the way I had purchased some very dirty last summer and fuel filter clogged fast. May want to carry a spare when traveling. Good luck

My '97 with 129k miles is the same way. If I just BARELY depress the throttle then crank, it starts instantly, even when cold and it's 40F outside. Otherwise it cranks 3-4 times and then starts fine, idle when cold is 500rpm, when warmed up at 800ish I guess. The 3-4 cranks isn't a bad thing, IMO. Those first couple of revs will help build oil pressure before the engine starts so it may save some wear over time, at least this is the reasoning with gas engines.

I'll check my return lines, but the cranking doesn't really bother me as long as it's normal. If something is broken/leaking, I want to fix it, though. #ad


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'97 2500 CC SLT 4x2, B5. 9, NV4500HD, 3. 54s, slid torque plate, no silencer ring
'98 Jeep Cherokee
'47 Willys CJ-2A, 302 v8, auto, 5. 38s, locked and ready to ROCK.