Stealth EZ inatallation

[RedRam1]

Hello everyone,

I'm anxiously awaiting the arrival of my Power Edge EZ, I ordered it last week, and have been expecting to find it waiting for me every evening when I get off work, hopefully I'll get it by the weekend. Anyway, as my truck is fairly new with the bulk of the warranty still in force, I would like to be able to remove the EZ without leaving any tell-tale signs in the event I need warranty work. Here are my qustions/concerns:

1. My truck has void stickers, but I know that not all trucks have 'em. If I completely remove the stickers and touch up the clear laquer that may get cracked/disturbed, how will DC know that my truck ever had the stickers?

2. Is there a way to remove and preserve the stickers such that they could be reinstalled.

3. What about the boost elbow? The factory part is installed using non-removable clamps (CV joint boot type, not sure what they're called). I can't figure a way to replace the elbow without cutting off and replaceing the factory clamps. Does anyone know where to get the OEM clamps, or has anyone figured a way around this? I'll bet a competent tech would spot a factory elbow installed with worm gear clamps within 30 seconds of opening the hood if he had a reason to be suspicious.

4. Will the EZ leave any sort of code that could make the service dept. suspicious? e. g. overboost. If so, can these codes be cleared out?

I know that I'm risking becoming "my own warranty station", and if I were to immediately fry the pump or ECM upon inatalling my EZ, I would have second thought s about trying stick DC with the repair. What I'm trying to avoid is having my dealer try to screw me on totally unrelated warranty issues because of this one fairly minor mod. My dealer seems like a decent guy, and has a pretty good reputation, I just don't want to take any chances. Thanks on advance for any help.

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2001. 5 Flame Red 2500 4x4 Quad SLT SB ETH/DEE 3. 54LS 241HD

 

[MCummings]

I don't know about any of your sticker/paint removal/reinstallation questions. . But,
I do think I know an answer to onw Question.

For the Boost elbow, I have heard of a few people buyin a SMALL pair of vice-grips, and wrapping the "teeth" with electrical tape. The point is to put the vise-grips just tight enough to close the boost hose a little bit, not pinch it off completely,,,, so it works very similar to a Boost Elbow.

I am not the one who invented this setup, or tried this setup, but is worth asking about, if you plan on making it stealthy, and quickly removable.

MerrickNJr

P. S. Just don't run your Vise-grip setup without a Boost module of sometype.
The PE EZ Is a boost module within itself.

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1998. 5 Dodge 3500, 2wd
5-Speed, Light Driftwood
STRAIGHT PIPED!
3. 55_LSD
A. R. E. Camper w/side pop up windows
Michelin LTX A/T 245/75/16's
Autometer Gaugeworks 3 Gauge A-Pillar Pod
Fuel Pressure (0-15Lbs)
Boost Pressure (0-35Lbs)
EGT Gauge (0-1600*F)
ATS Manifold too!!
My"REAL" Hobby

 

[KatDiesel]

On the elbow question, why not use one of the HY35 methods..... several ways to handle it. Look at the thread Easy way to disable wastegate... ... . for two ideas.

 

[Bigsaint]

If your just installing the EZ box, you don't have to worry about the void stickers as they are not present on the map sensor or data plugs.

As far as the elbow goes, you could always say that the OEM clamp was loose and you had to replace same while on a extended road trip, just make sure to put the OEM boost elbow back in when you remove the EZ, other wise you will have overboost codes present (I, believe, never tried it) when you go over 21 psi's.

Scott W.

---------------------------------------------

I have a fast truck, but it's broke right now. #ad
#ad

 

[TXRam]

What I've been is just pry the clamp open a little with a small flathead screwdriver and slide it back up the hose and leave it. Install the new elbow with the new clamp. If you ever have to take it off just slide the OEM clamp back down and pinch it tight with some pliers.

Or you can use a small set of vise grips as suggested above, but clamp it off COMPLETELY or the wastegate will eventually (after 4 or 5 seconds) open.

The elbows IMO will not allow the wastegate to open unless the pressure gets extremely high (above 40-50psi), so they're pretty much the same as plugging the wastegate - unless you have one of the adjustable elbow (hex screw in the end).

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1999 2500 QC 4X4 LB Auto (DTT Upgraded), 4. 10LS, 275HP Injectors, PowerEdge, PowerEdge EZ, unmodified HX40, SPA Boost and EGT, K&N Air Filter, Magnaflow straight-thru muffler
NRA Member

 

[TXRam]

Not an AGGIE - a RAZORBACK. #ad
But alot of my buddies are Aggie Mechanical Engineers, so I don't hold it against you #ad
.

The visegrips work - a guy down here is using mine right now (for the past 2 weeks). I bought these to use to let people try my EZ, that way I didn't have to disturb the clamps just to let them try it. Like Mopar-Muscle said, you can work that clamp quite bit - I'd recommend just sliding it up the tubing and using the new one with the new elbow. If you ever need to return it to stock, just replace the elbow, remove the new clamp, and slide the OEM one back down.

If you look at the orifices in the elbow, the one allowing air pressure to get from the turbo to the wastegate actuator is much smaller than the one letting pressure bleed off to the world. Each orifice takes a pressure drop across it because the air is flowing through them (not stagnant). That's why I say the the pressure at the outlet of the turbo would have to get extremely high to make the actuator actually work.

[This message has been edited by TXRam (edited 05-24-2001). ]

 

[CUMINNTSTRKN]

instead of visegrips they make a hose pinching clamp that you can buy at napa or other autoparts stores. it is a small clamp that won't be banging around under the hood.

jim

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if it ain't broke fix it till it is!!
2001 eth, ez box, dd2's,southbendclutch

My Ram Pics

 

[larryq]

Try this...

Go to Lowe's or Home Depot.

Look in the garden department.

For Ponds and Fountains they make a "Regulator" that controls the pressure that comes out of a water pump for adjusting the height of water plumes in a fountain nozzle.

They call them "Regulators" but all they do is squeeze off the tube to reduce the flow rate.

I have one sitting on my workbench.
I installed a fountain in my front yard. . and got it just in case the pump was putting the water out of the fountain.

This should work. .
but you still need a way to tell the pressure at the MAP.

I found a OBD software program that gives LIVE MAP data. !

So as you test the regulator settings. . you can monitor the pressure. .

The software will work on a laptop. . and there is a PALM version as well.


Best part is. . If you do set a code by accident you can clear it!!!

What you want is a setting that goes up to 21 PSI but no higher!

At 21 PSI the fueling map in the ECM is giving MAX fuel. (max at LAME setting. . HEHEHE)

Over that value. . and it begins to defuel from overboost.

Below that pressure and it defuels to prevent smoke. (Thank DODGE and the EPA!!!)


Information is POWER!

LArry

 

[roadranger]

Yep,what Bigsaint said ^^^

There are NO stickers where the EZ plugs in.

If the dealer asks me about the worm clamps, I'll tell them the OEM trash fell off on the road and I fixed it.

Just remember to put the OEM elbow back on whenever you unplug/remove the EZ box to avoid setting codes... .

although those codes can be removed by turning the key on and off what? 10-12 times?

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Deezul Doug- 01. 5 2500 QC 4x4 LB, ETH/DEE, 3. 54 anti, Tow/Camper group, Westin SS
Step Bars, relocated breather, Autometer Pyro (pre), and 35 psi boost gauges,
EZ w/elbow.

Tow #1 - 6x12 Interstate inclosed cargo trailer.
GVW 7500
Tow #2 - Starcraft camper trailer
GVW 4500

2001 Volvo S80T twin turbo

 

[Mopar-muscle]

on the little clamp , i have had mine on and off more times than i care to think , if you grab the head with a pair of garden variety plier and wiggle the clamp while pulling up on the hose it will just come right off , same procedure to put it back on . works like a charm .

if you go to put on a new clamp of the same type you need to dupilcate the factory green inspection mark , i haven't gone to a hobby shop yet to find the shade of green in model paint that is the same .

 

[RedRam1]

Thanks for all the advise, it looks like the void stickers won't be an issue. I can't remember the precise location of my stickers, I just remember seeing a bunch of them in the area of the pump. If they're not present on the map sensor and data port plugs, then I'm home free.

If what TX Ram and Bomber 101 say is correct, it appears that with just the EZ, the truck will not know the difference between the EZ boost elbow and clamping/plugging the line. Anyone disagree with this assessment? If this is indeed correct, I believe I'll do something similar to the vice-grip method suggested by Bomber, sounds simpler than trying to finesse things with the stock clamps.
TX Ram, please pardon me for questioning a fellow engineer. Since you're a Texan, you're probably a fellow Aggie! If so, Howdy and "Gig-em"!

 

[TXRam]

Hey guys, think about this . . .

When you have a clamp on the hose, if it's not FULLY clamped (i. e. , hose is not shut off), the pressure will continue to build up on the wastegate actuator - there's no air escaping from the wastegate actuator - it's sealed. Eventually the wastegate will then open and you lose your boost. That's exactly why the modified elbow has a hole in the side, as well as the restriction - it has to vent off what gets by the orifice inside the elbow.

 

[larryq]

"You Are Correct, Sir"... ...

 

[Ladders]

I had to remove the factory clamp on the turbo wastegate to use the "T" until I tapped the intake for my boost pressure. Of course, during this the "plastic" hose broke and thats probably why I show 27+#'s of boost. Now that I have the boost off the intake horn, I took out the "T" and only had the worm clamp to use. Also, to prevent the hose (boost) from breaking agn I now use rubber windshield wiper hose to run the boost gauge.

Just my explaination on what happened... ...

SOTSU!!
\\BF//

 

[RedRam1]

Well... I finally got my EZ last Friday, just in time for the long weekend! So far I'm really pleased, the EZ feels like it delivers every bit of the extra HP/torque claimed by the manufacturer.
The added power is very noticeable empty and when pulling. I hauled my tractor up to our mountain property to do a little bush hogging, the total weight of the load is somewhere around 10 - 12K. I had to be careful when running thru the gears pulling, I have the habit of not completely removing my foot from the clutch till I get in top gear. Apparently, just the weight of my foot on the pedal is reducing the clamp up of the pressure plate a little bit (the clutch does engage right at the top), anyway with the EZ it slips like hell if I do this, but I had never noticed it when stock (not complaining, the EZ just uncovered an error in the way I was driveing). I installed the EZ right out of the box with the jumper set in the most agressive setting, I was surprised at how much it smoked pulling the trailer... it really layed down a smoke screen until I got rolling. I don't really mind the smoke, but I may experiment with the middle setting to see if I can reduce the smoke without losing any power (if not I'll just let her smoke!) I don't know about smoke unloaded, it's been dark every time I've driven without the trailer so far.
In my original post, I asked for advise on installing the boost elbow, but after I removed the intake hose and got a good look at the crimp type clamp on the original elbow I found that it's very easy to remove the original clamp without damageing it in any way, all you have to do is get the hose out of the way in order to get a good look at things and it will be apparent how to proceed. Bottom line is that it's very easy to perform a stealth EZ installation.
One more thing I noticed was a slightly quieter idle, it will be interesting to see what effect the EZ has on my mileage.
I would highly recommend the EZ as a first bomb, I can't imagine a bigger "bang for the buck" mod. This bombing business in addictive though, I've already ordered the Geno's boost/egt guages (I know I'm bombing a little out of order!), and I'm looking at injectors. Carl has a deal on 275's that expires in a few days, I can't decide if I want to go with these or something a little more agressive. If the clutches on the ETH's were a litle more robust, I'd probably go with DD2's. What's the consensus on how "big" you can go injector wise on an ETH if you drive fairly conservatievly? I would really like to put off spending close to $1K on a clutch as long as possible. Sorry for such a long, rambling post.

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2001. 5 Flame Red 2500 4x4 Quad SLT SB ETH/DEE 3. 54LS 241HD

 

[Sky]

I noticed the smoke too, when i got my EZ. Its only when you floor it until you have boost built up. With the extra power i dont care! #ad




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2001 QuadCab,SWB,Auto, 4X4,4" Flowmaster Raceing Exhaust, DTT TC & VB, EZ Box, Bosch 275 Injectors, Mag-Hytech transmission pan/Dana 70, K&N, Autometer pyro/boots guages, Eclipse cd player, Boston Pro componet speakers, 2 Solo Baric Subs, 33" BFG AT'S... ... .....

 

[Irontrader]

Originally posted by Samscov:
RedRam1, from what I have heard and read the clutches (stock) in our trucks won't take any more than the 275 RV's with the EZ box, I can't personally confirm this, though.

I've got the EZ and 275 injectors and haven't had a clutch slipping problem yet. However, mine is a 98. 5 5spd with about 80k miles on it. With 80k I'm sure my clutch is well seated, plus I don't abuse it.

 

[Evan A. Beck]

My clutch acts like a torque converter when I get above 2,200 RPM. Clutch time. #ad