Steering Gear Adjustment - Anyone?

[Tejasdge]

Was working on the front suspension yesterday and noticed a bit of play in the pitman shaft. I felt the top of the gear box and there was an adjuster.



So I pulled up a file from the memory bank on how I had adjusted the play out of my old Chevy LUV gear box with that same adjustment screw. Now before you start giving me a bunch of grief about my first truck. When I was just out of high school, I dropped a Buick V6 and TH350 in it and put over 200k on it. It took me through college and a number of years as a beater once I started post college working life. I was the king of the salvage yard "all you can carry" sales and she rarely left me stranded.



Any how (back to the Dodge) I started to turn it, waiting to hit a stop to back off from and started to get worried when I didn't hit one. So I backed it out until the play was back and tightened untill it went away. Then I checked the service manual on the computer and it has a whole process of taking the box out of the truck, yada, yada. If it comes out, a new one will go in.



Sooo, it took me long enough to get here, does anyone have an "in truck" method of steering box adjustment or did I just do it?

 

[opjohnny]

Right or wrong that's how I did it on my Jeep. I will be following this thread. I have read the factory procedure to set it. It is quite elaborate.

 

[HOBrian]

I have read the factory procedure to set it. It is quite elaborate.

I always forget to do that... Maybe that is why I am always breaking stuff#@$%!



I will be watching this thread as well.

 

[betterthanstock]

Yeah, I did it. At first I tightened it a little much, I could feel the wheel, when driving, like it was a little tight in the center. So I backed it off, then gently tightened it. I think the average truck after 50K or so, just needs to loosen the nut, tighten the center screw about one eighth of a turn, and retighten the nut and call it good. They all get sloppy after a few years.



Edit: just for those without much mechanical experience: You first hold down the center screw (I think it's an allen hex key), then loosen the nut (so you can't use a socket wrench, need a box end), tighten the center 1/8 turn or so, and while still holding it, tighten the nut. That way the adjustment won't move without you knowing it.

 

[HOBrian]

Cool!!!! Might have to take mine to 1/4 turn 90k



again thanks

 

[p-Bar]

One front end guy told me if it's to tight you will be fighting the sterring when you drive down the road you will be constantly moving the wheel from 11 o clock to 1 o clock. So bottom line not too tight.

 

[Tejasdge]

One front end guy told me if it's to tight you will be fighting the sterring when you drive down the road you will be constantly moving the wheel from 11 o clock to 1 o clock. So bottom line not too tight.

You got that right! One turn takes you from clunk to tight. After several adjustments I still have a mild clunk, but the Defiant steering box support I ordered should smooth that out.

 

[WestTN]

You have to adjust the bearing end play before you tighten that adjustment on top. They interact. No side play on the pitman shaft, then the top adjuster.

 

[Tejasdge]

You have to adjust the bearing end play before you tighten that adjustment on top. They interact. No side play on the pitman shaft, then the top adjuster.

Where is the end play adjustment? Can it be done while on the truck?



Edit: After looking at the service manual some more, I may have been better off leaving it alone.

 

[dan.poitras]

You did not mention if the play you were feeling is sideways or up and down.

The sideways play is normal,I've noticed this since my truck was new. these boxes are sloppy. The (top) ajuster (overcentre preload) won't cure this

 

[Tejasdge]

You did not mention if the play you were feeling is sideways or up and down.

The sideways play is normal,I've noticed this since my truck was new. these boxes are sloppy. The (top) ajuster (overcentre preload) won't cure this

It is sideways and I agree that it is not the cure, but tightening the adjuster seems to take out the felt slack, but has unacceptable side effects as mentioned above. At this point, I am pretty close to where I started and hope the shaft stabilization helps me out.



Merry Christmas All!

 

[Cattletrkr]

My steering is a lot better after new tie rods, but I wanted it a little better. I talked to a local mechanic and he said he's never worked on one, he just replaces them. That's mainly on class 8's. So I called my dealer and the service guy said it's about 2. 5 hours book time to remove the box and adjust it. If it's not too wore out, it'll be good for a while again. If it is wore, like mine could be at 197K, then it should be replaced as long as it's out. 2. 5 hours @ $70/hr = $175. I now have a rebuilt unit sitting on the workbench that cost me... .






... ... $175 + core.

I was hoping to find a thread with info on doing the swap but no such luck so far. It's going in tonight if I can get around to it.

 

[rbattelle]

I was hoping to find a thread with info on doing the swap but no such luck so far. It's going in tonight if I can get around to it.

Fer cryin' out loud, post pictures and do a "How To" thread!!!! Oo.



Ryan

 

[Cattletrkr]

Well no luck. Pitman arm will not come off. Period. Had everything else loose and waiting on the arm. Spent 3 hours on it last night and acclomplished nothing. It's in good enough shape I'm going to see how much of a re-stocking fee the parts guy wants and say the heck with it. Tried doing the camshaft sensor at the same time 'cause it was a lot easier with some of the hoses out of the way... no go there either. I don't have a 5mm allen head short enough to get at the bolt.

Time to trade trucks.

 

[Cattletrkr]

Well I went out and bought a pitman arm puller ($35 Napa) and the switch was easy. New (rebuilt) box is just as bad if not worse than the old one. After re-reading this thread I won't screw with it anymore.

 

[DonFitzwater]

You silly boy... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ..... Trying to pull a pitman arm without a puller? Been there and done that, won't make that mistake again. Sometimes you get lucky... ... ... ... ... unless your like me and then you will always need the puller.

 

[Cattletrkr]

I had a regular gear puller, but the teeth were too big. Bought a pitman puller and the space wasn't wide enough for the shaft. Went to a different store and bought one that said it was big enough. It wasn't. Ground off the ends of the second and returned the first. DOH!! The first one could have been ground just as easily and cost 1/2 as much. That what happens when I work on my truck.