Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Steering Knuckle Questions

[Dave Remillard]

It's been some time now that I have needed to replace my rotors. But since I don't drive the truck very much, I have put it off. I'm about ready to get started and have been thinking about the other things I should consider doing at the same time. I have 125K miles on this vehicle. Question one: Should I replace the steering knuckles while I have the front rotors off? Question two: have any of you done this before that can shed some light on things to look for that the repair manual fails to speak of? Question three: Where should I get the needed parts? And lastly, question four: If special tools are needed and I don't have them, what can be done to do the work without buying tools that more than likely will not get used again? Thanks in advance.

 

[Andy Redmond]

Dave:



Usually the upper and lower ball joints are the only wear item assoc with the s. knuckle except the hub bearing assy. Unless a ball joint tapered stud was loose and "egged" the knuckle.



I have some dealer alternatives for the hub beaings, send a pm if your interested.



You will need a ball joint press or a sturdy homemade version to r&r the ball joints (ball joint tools $75-$200). They are changed after the axles are removed. You will not remove the axles when doing hub bearings and rotors unless you are doing ball joints. You might also nick the axle seals. See some posts on this, usually the carrier is removed for the d. side seal. The passenger sides can be changed, but some special or homemade tools are required ($100-$500). Dodgeram.org has an interesting post with pics on a 1500 truck, which is a similiar r&r proceedure.





Probably the u joints too, if they are sticky and the axles are out, its cheap insurance.



Its likely a long hard day for the DIY, unless you've done it several times.



Good luck

Andy

 

[Dave Remillard]

Thanks Andy for the tips and the web link. Plenty of helpful information.

 

[tp0d]

I just did my rotors and ball joints on my 96. Rented a porto-power hydraulic ram/pump for $50 for two days. Used the small hydraulic ram (4", 7" extended) to push out the 4 mounting studs for the hub/rotor combo. worked great, I pushed from the rear lower bolt and from the front upper bolt (diagonal). About 3 rotations of the sequence, the hubs popped out easily. Looked like mine hadnt been ever removed from the truck. The porto-power I rented came with a large c-clamp looking thing that the small ram screwed into. Used this to push the ball joints out of the knuckles, had each side back in and done in less than 10mins. I used an assortment of 3/4 drive by 1" to 2 1/4" sockets for press tools. Worked great. . I`m lookin to buy one of those porto power sets. . good stuffs. . made by blackhawk tools i think



good luck



-jerry