Steering Linkage Recall... Dealer says there is a new one coming??

[pcarlson]

Thanks. Steering wheel seems fine but inside edges are wearing pretty quickly.

 

[RDeFayette]

Thanks. Steering wheel seems fine but inside edges are wearing pretty quickly.

toe-out is what you're looking at. if they're wearing that fast probably alot at that. rear wheel drive should be set for toe-in at rest....front wheel drive toe-out at rest. idiots.

 

[pcarlson]

Took it to an alignment shop and it was toed out 1.17 degrees. They toed it in .15 degrees but now I have a pull to the right. They did not adjust anything else. Left is .06 and right is .09 degrees in. Might have to find another shop as they say I have bad ball joints, Dodge replaced last year, and the pull is radial pull. Drove perfect before all this.

 

[RDeFayette]

Took it to an alignment shop and it was toed out 1.17 degrees. They toed it in .15 degrees but now I have a pull to the right. They did not adjust anything else. Left is .06 and right is .09 degrees in. Might have to find another shop as they say I have bad ball joints, Dodge replaced last year, and the pull is radial pull. Drove perfect before all this.

so far as alignment settings;
Toe-in and camber will not induce a pull.
Caster will. BUT with a solid axle both side should be the same.
Did they rotate the tires?

 

[pcarlson]

so far as alignment settings;
Toe-in and camber will not induce a pull.
Caster will. BUT with a solid axle both side should be the same.
Did they rotate the tires?

They did not rotate the tires. I will do that next weekend. They were rotated and flat when this started now they are pretty chewed up. Caster I believe was left 3.5 and right 3.8 but nobody should have touched that.

 

[RDeFayette]

They did not rotate the tires. I will do that next weekend. They were rotated and flat when this started now they are pretty chewed up. Caster I believe was left 3.5 and right 3.8 but nobody should have touched that.

that little bit of difference won't do squat. I'd prefer to see 4.5 or better/more.

 

[pcarlson]

With the new tie rods, how do you screw the left tie rod end in or out ? There appears to be a fork that prevents the end from being turned and only the adjustment sleeve can be used after it is put together. Am I doing something wrong?

 

[RDeFayette]

With the new tie rods, how do you screw the left tie rod end in or out ? There appears to be a fork that prevents the end from being turned and only the adjustment sleeve can be used after it is put together. Am I doing something wrong?

If you are replacing the tie rod end......measure the distance from the center of the "stud" to a reference point on the adjusting sleeve, remove tire-rod end/stud from the steering knuckle, loosen ONLY the the bolt on the adjusting sleeve that clamps the tie-rod being removed, (counting the number of turns) remove the tie rod end. Re-install in the opposite order (going back in the same number of turns/distance/length as above) for a descent starting point for the alignment. For adjusting BOTH adjusting bolts/clamps must be loosened. BTW, the threads might be left handed. One always is...just can't remember if it's the inner or outer.

 

[Wingate]

Havent taken the 06 model in yet to get the latest recall performed as the 14 model cant seem to stay out of the shop. Debating whether to worry about it or not.

 

[RDeFayette]

Havent taken the 06 model in yet to get the latest recall performed as the 14 model cant seem to stay out of the shop. Debating whether to worry about it or not.

Just drive by the nearest dealer. Takes exactly 3.2 seconds to look under the truck to see if you need it done or not.

 

[Wingate]

Just drive by the nearest dealer. Takes exactly 3.2 seconds to look under the truck to see if you need it done or not.

I know mine is part of the recall.
The dilemma is that my truck has always driven perfectly after the steering update in 2008. I hate to mess with success.

 

[pcarlson]

If you are replacing the tie rod end......measure the distance from the center of the "stud" to a reference point on the adjusting sleeve, remove tire-rod end/stud from the steering knuckle, loosen ONLY the the bolt on the adjusting sleeve that clamps the tie-rod being removed, (counting the number of turns) remove the tie rod end. Re-install in the opposite order (going back in the same number of turns/distance/length as above) for a descent starting point for the alignment. For adjusting BOTH adjusting bolts/clamps must be loosened. BTW, the threads might be left handed. One always is...just can't remember if it's the inner or outer.

Yes, but there is a fork that prevents the outer tie rod from moving separately. I was cranking on the end and nothing. Then looked through the slit in the adjuster and there is a fork and pin that is preventing this from turning. Any ideas?

 

[RDeFayette]

Yes, but there is a fork that prevents the outer tie rod from moving separately. I was cranking on the end and nothing. Then looked through the slit in the adjuster and there is a fork and pin that is preventing this from turning. Any ideas?

gonna need a pic of what you are talking about.
from your description I have NO idea what you are seeing when you say "fork and pin" in the sleeve.
There shouldn't be anything in the sleeve to stop the tie-rod from rotating once the clamp is loosened.

 

[pcarlson]

I'll see if I can get one. But it might not be good since you see it through the slit in the adjuster.

 

[cerberusiam]

Yes, the upgraded steering has a pin thru the tie rod and a fork in the tie rod end to permanaently align both TRE's. You insert the adjuster sleeve in between the tie rod, slide the TRE in until the ends mate, then turn the adjuster to set the length of the tie rod which will set toe in.

 

[pcarlson]

Yes, the upgraded steering has a pin thru the tie rod and a fork in the tie rod end to permanaently align both TRE's. You insert the adjuster sleeve in bettween the tie rod, slide the TRE in until the ends mate, then turn the adjuster to set the length of the tie rod which will set toe in.

Thanks. I thought I was seeing things for a minute there.

 

[Freebore]

Here's what the pin looks like when you remove the adjuster sleeve.

 

[crispyboy]

I was finally able to get the recall completed on my truck. It took going to another dealer to get the recall performed. I waited out the original dealer from April until early November. The second dealer called me within 3 weeks. BTW - the steering stabalizer is also "clamped" onto the new linkage.

 

[EGroeneveld]

My recall was done this morning, was basically on their ''waiting for parts from Chrysler'' list for 6 months....

 

[Freebore]

Anyone know if there are any grease fittings on the uprgaded TRE's, or if they can be installed later??

None supplied with new TRE's, but they can be installed. I located the update parts (CBUEN491AC) and upgraded the linkage myself and added the grease zerks. The 1/4" zerks with the tapered threads seem to work the best. Drilling with one hand and holding the shop vac hose stopped any metal from getting inside the TRE, hole was just small enough to let the zerks tighten into the end.