Steering problems

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My steering is sloppy as hell (as we all know). Don't have the $$ for Borgeson at this time and heading down to GA. next weekend from VT. Bought the Mopar fix to replace worn out coupler. Went together rather well but now I do not turn as tight to the right. Steering wheel is straight along with tires, but a little hard to turn to the right also. Doesn't seem to bring itself back to center also when letting go of steering wheel. From center, only 1. 25 turns to lock position to right whereas it takes 1. 75 turns to lock to the left. Seems as though it is off by 1/2 turns, but then that would put the steering wheel upside down. Any thought on making sure wheels and steering is straight when putting together. I must admit though, steering is better then what is was. Now if I only had the $$ to buy the proper fix, ONCE AND FOR ALL. Also, any thoughts on getting the gear box off. That seems to starting to leak a little bit. So when I buy the borgeson, I want to fix that also. Looks as though I may need to pull front spring off to pull off the arm that goes to the steering knuckle to get at it? This true? Thanks for all the help once again.

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Scott
92 Ram, club cab, LE package, 4x4, 3. 54 gears, auto, 285x75x16 Cooper Discovery A/T, running boards, sunvisor, bug deflector, Tonneau cover, Full cap, DynoMax muffler, 5" Chrome Tip, 16 cm Turbo, Boost Gauge

 

[Archive]

I checked into rebuilding my steering. Dodge wanted $269 for the parts (included a shaft at $149 and coupler for $57) a Borgeson costs $199. I'm probly going for the Borgeson. What parts did you use to do your rebuild? Was it a kit or a put together parts list? I just replaced my drag link, that helped some of the pull I was experiencing as well as some wheel shimmy. I know I need an alignment though.

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Stock 92, 5sp LE, 4WD, 4. 10 gears, std cab, 178K miles, 50 gal aux. ,more to come

 

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I used the same shaft and only got Mopar's kit. They have combined everything except the coupler box for only $8 now. Last year it was $50 for the same pieces. Replaced all the parts (little clip, square washers?, solid pin in shaft). Everything went together pretty smooth, this time though I got smart and drilled and tapped a grease fitting into the coupler. If I drive down the road, truck goes straight. But turning in circles to the left it is tighter corner then to the right. From center position to lock position on the left, about 1. 75 turns. Whereas from ctr to right, about 1. 25 turns. So I lost some of my turning to the right. Just seems as if I un-did the 2 bolts where the shaft bolts together and turned it about 180 degrees, it would be correct. But then the steering wheel would be upside down. Maybe it is because it is now filled with grease but that wouldn't explain loosing tight right corners.

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Scott
92 Ram, club cab, LE package, 4x4, 3. 54 gears, auto, 285x75x16 Cooper Discovery A/T, running boards, sunvisor, bug deflector, Tonneau cover, Full cap, DynoMax muffler, 5" Chrome Tip, 16 cm Turbo, Boost Gauge

 

[Archive]

As for the wheel being upside down, the steering wheel will turn forever if it is unhooked. To get the truck to turn better, look behind each wheel. There is a bolt with a nut that has a stop on the axle. The further it is turned in the better your truck will turn. Be aware that too much can be hard on the steering box. To get the steering box out on 4x4, remove the drag link from the pitman arm. Then I loosen the nut on drag link (1 5/16 I think). Remove the steering shaft and power steering lines. The box has three bolts through the frame. Then remove the mounting plate that the box is bolted to. Now the hard part, at least for me, has been to remove the pitman arm. If you are going to replace the box then my method is to hang on to the pitman arm and drive the shaft out with the aid of gravity and a 3 lb hammer. I've broken pullers and used a torch but that is the only way I've gotten it off. The box is heavy so watch your foot. I am going for my 4th box tonight. I'm starting to think that lifetime warranty parts aren't what they are cracked up to be as this is only in a 9 month span!

Matt

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90 W250, 5-speed, isspro gauges, 16 cm2, K&N, Borgeson shaft

 

[Archive]

Thanks, I would think that using a Steering wheel puller or the likes may help in getting the pitman arm off the box. I am hoping that when my time comes that I can just get a Seal replacement kit and install a new seal into the box. My question about loosing turning radius is that I didn't change the bolts behind the knuckle last night so why did I lose the radius to the right. They are already pretty cranked as it stands from previous owner. I thought that when I installed the shaft, wheels were straight, steering wheel was in the straight position also. I just didn't check to see if the steering wheel was in the middle (middle of lock to lock position) before installing shaft. I don't know if that would've effected anything. Thanks for the replies. Guess I will be pulling it all apart again tonight. Hey, at least the bolts I know comes off without problems now. LOL

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Scott
92 Ram, club cab, LE package, 4x4, 3. 54 gears, auto, 285x75x16 Cooper Discovery A/T, running boards, sunvisor, bug deflector, Tonneau cover, Full cap, DynoMax muffler, 5" Chrome Tip, 16 cm Turbo, Boost Gauge

 

[Archive]

As I drive the truck more today, I think it is slightly off alignment. When I got it aligned about 1 month ago with the bad steering, it was much better. But know since the steering is tight, truck goes slightly to the right. So I think I will probably try adjusting the Drag Link to bring the tires to the left a little. This would also allow me to have a little bit more Right turn radius I would think. If I undo the shaft and turn the shaft 180 degrees and then bolt back on, the tires are pointing to the left. So just a tad of adjustment should do. Thanks for the replies and will give an update after this gets done tonight.

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Scott
92 Ram, club cab, LE package, 4x4, 3. 54 gears, auto, 285x75x16 Cooper Discovery A/T, running boards, sunvisor, bug deflector, Tonneau cover, Full cap, DynoMax muffler, 5" Chrome Tip, 16 cm Turbo, Boost Gauge

 

[Archive]

Just replaced the innards of the steering knuckle with the $8 kit. Went smoothly. Scarry how little holds the steering together on the stock hardware. Next item for the wish list is the Borgeson unit. Thanks for the info on the kit. The local dealer is a little fuzzy on answering questions sometimes.

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Stock 92, 5sp LE, 4WD, 4. 10 gears, std cab, 184K miles, 50 gal aux. ,more to come

 

[Archive]

Finely adjusted my frt end last night for the final time. Slighty pulling to the right so I adjusted the draglink bar about 2 - 3 turns and truck goes pretty straight now. Still lost a little lock turn to the right but I can live with that. Hate to adjust the lock screw because already pretty tight turning radius. Thanks for all the replies.

 

[Archive]

Hi Scott.

I had a '81 W250 that had the same problem and it was because the truck was lifted and it had the STOCK pitman arm.

A DROP pitman arm restores the balance between right and left full lock turning. The problem is not the knuckle screws in this case, but that the steering box itself is maxing out in one direction and has left over travel in the other direction because of the geometry. Also if the knuckle screws are in too far the steering box is taking the force that would normally be on those screws.

An ADJUSTABLE DRAG LINK will allow you to center the steering wheel but won't help the lock to lock problem.

If your truck is lifted this may be the problem.

The stering box could be loose on its mount also.

Have someone turn the steering wheel and check how sharply each knuckle turns (using something to measure the distance between a certain point on the axle tube and a certain point on the knuckle at full lock in both directions) and if the screws are actually being hit by the knuckles at full lock (they should be). Also check for steering box movement.

Mark

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'93 W350 Club Cab, Bright White, 5 sp. , 130K, Factory Options: Bucket seats replaced with factory split bench, LE, 4. 10, Limited Slip, 7600 lb. rear springs, tachometer, front stabilizer bar. Mods: Banks stinger plus, Linex bedliner, 25,000 lb gooseneck ball, 10,000 lb receiver, Tekonsha brake controller, POWER WAGON injectors-WAY faster than stock!.