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Steering Problems

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Engine and transmission oils?

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So far I have had both tie rod ends replaced. Replaced steering coupler. Replaced rear transfer seal. Replace sector shaft seal. U-joint Front left. Oil seal kit. Seal kit. My truck will still wonder to the right or left. when I brake it will pull to the left most of the time, but will also got to the right. It is a 1992 4X4. What else could make it go left and right like that?

Rick
 
rdurham, have you tried jacking up and suspending the front end and then grab a wheel and wiggle to check wheel bearings and your drag link, I got a real surprise when I had to have mine towed and did the above drag link was toast and did not show wear in day to day use. bill
 
Steering Wander

Bill,

No, but I will and I will check the knuckles while I have it jacked up. When I bought the truck from Carter Chrysler they had steamed and detailed the truck to death. Now that I have had the truck for almost a week I can see fluid leaking out of the steering box seal where the steering shaft goes into the steering box. Could this also have a effect on steering wander?

Rick.
 
Check Frame

There have been some W-series owners experiencing the frame cracking where the steering gearbox bolts on. It is something simple to check. You might also do a search to find out some of the specifics.



Jeremy
 
steering

I had the exact same problems you are experiencing this summer. It was a little worrisome at the time because I was 4500 mi from home. The problem turned out to be a combination of loose steering box and not enough toe in.



There is a way to tighten the steering boxes on old dodges, short of rebuilding it. If the box is determined to be really sloppy, there is a hex set screw on the top that can be tightened. Just loosen the lock nut and turn it in till it bottoms, then back off about a turn until the steering feels "right". This is not a Dodge authorized fix, but it has worked for me.



As for the toe in, I took it into an alignment shop. Didn't help that much. However a large rock in Moab sort of "adjusted" my tie rod on the way home and it has been great ever since. :)



Also, it is possible to replace the seal where the shaft goes in without taking the box off. I had one go out on me once, it tends to make the steering alot stiffer as it looses fluid.



Isaac
 
Try looking at the steering mounting plate. its the plate that mounts the steering box to the frame. The plate goes bad usually before the frame cracks. Have somebody sit in the truck with it started and turn the wheel back and forth about 1/4 of a turn on the steering wheel. Look under the truck and see if the steering box is loose. The plate is about $35 from the dealer.
 
Tie Rod End's

I did both of the tie rod end's (lower). I'm not sure of the name off the arm that the top ball joints are attached to. Might be pitman arm? Any way it has two ball joints on either end and is short and runs parallel to the frame. When I grab hold of this arm I can roll it back and forth. It does not seem to be loose and I cannot wiggle it. Is this normal? It just looks like a lot roll on the ball joints to me? I did a search and somebody said why do the bottom ball joints and not the top? Too save a little$$$$? But this could be true. Maybe I should do the top. How can I tell if the top are worn out?

Rick.
 
Rick I just put new tires on mine and went in for a wheel alignment. O. K. nuff about me jack truck up until wheel clears ground make sure truck is not going to fall off jack :D put a bar under tread of lifted tire from front lift on bar or have helper lift and check for play between axle and spindle no play every thing is fine play and its time to replace ball joints. I had one tie rod end gone forgot what its like to pay retail on parts :mad: oh well jobs done tires are happy:D next a borgenson shaft (spelling). bill
 
Had a similar problem on my '88 Dodge gasser truck. The kingpins on steering knuckles were totally fried, I mean really bad. So much slop that when I jacked it up the wheels were all over the place. Sledge hammer, hydraulic press and a HUGE ratchet wrench, all was fixed. :eek:



SP
 
All the above are good suggestions. As for the mounting plate cracking, it does happen fairly often. You should look at the mounting plate from the bottom up. Look at the "curved sections" of the plate... that is the sections that have some contour. Use a good light and look to see if there is any sign of slight cracking or signs of "fatigue". Some are hard to spot in the initial stages, others are progressed enough to be obvious to the naked eye. (is there another kind??)

You may find that the only way to see a failure is to lift the front end, and cycle the steering from "stop to stop" since this thing usually needs some serious load to betray the flaw(s)

As for the steering input shaft or 'stub shaft' it does have a seal that can be changed without removal of the steering gear. (Many thanks to Case500D for the extra tips/details when I did mine)

DC has a repair kit.

I have concluded that the most common reason for this to fail is the steering coupler, which usually fails due to lack of lube, and contamination getting in from the rubber boot.

If you get the seal kit, and a new coupler you'll be good for a while, but it will likely recur.

Many of us here have gone to the Borgeson steering shaft with good results. I don't know if anyone makes a comparible item but it can't hurt to check it out.



bob.
 
Re: Steering Wander

Today I jacked up the front-end of the old war horse.

Bill I checked for wiggle and both wheels were tight with no play. I assume the bearings are good. I checked knuckles and as far as I can see they are free and the wheels spin nice with a little drag from the brakes that I can hear a feel. I put a bar under each wheel and lifted up. There was no play in the kingpins that I could see. But, I did see play in the top ball joints. The one closest to the cab was the worst. I looked at the mounting plate too. It is hard to see because of the steering box and all the dirt. I could not really see any cracks or any movement here either. I was thinking I will steam clean this area and have a closer look. What I did find was 2 of the bolts that hold the mounting plate to the frame were a little loose, maybe 1/2 a turn. Not any more. Another thing I checked closely was the tracking bar. I noticed right away how the bushings in both ends a badly worn. They are cracked and are original. With the weight of this diesel this could be most of the problem with going left and right.

Bushwhacker, Did you get any rainbows? 4 or 5 lbs maybe?

Thanks to all for the info. Let me know some stuff about this tracking bar. New to me.

Love driving this truck. The smell of diesel, I'm in heaven. I got it bad boy's

Rick.
 
Rick, I don't think I have a tracking bar on mine:confused: but did have one on a 79 f*rd{baaaad word}:D and until i replaced the rubber bushings with after market ones it would eat them like candy. Bill
 
Steering

Got my truck back from the alignment shop today. :D Goes straight as an arrow down the road now. :D No wander or any loose ends in the front-end now. We will see how long it lasts I guess.

Rick:cool:
 
BCaldwell, I got my Borgeson from Al at PDR. Give him a call, he has a contact who gets them at a fairly decent price. .

If you get one and want to change it let me know, I'll give you a hand since it goes better with 2 people yanking, wiggling, and cussing.

Bob.
 
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