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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Steering Pulls

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Water Meth And Rust

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Sorry for the length.



A bit o history: Purchased 5/01, 75k, from 5 star dealer in NY State. Present 135k - love it. I though it was in a hr/front hit prior to purchasing but, not to bad a hit. Later found that most of the damage was to r/front suspension again not to bad. And most everything was taken care of. Dealer installed new r/h rotor, caliper & pads as I commented the pull to the right had to be resolved before I would accept delivery.



After the 90 day wonder (used warranty) wore out it started to pull right upon application of brakes. Installed new loaded calipers (Lifetime warranty - best $50 bucks each I've spent so far-Wagners) and always adjust rear drums and lube caliper slides & pins every oil change. I'm on my third set of calipers because when I lube the calipers if I notice the pads are worn (always r/side) I return for replacement.



I removed the 3. 5 mm shim between the r/wheel & hub as I saw a post here that said it was basically useless. Then after seeing another post instructing if pull was to the right to install it on the left & visa versa. Yesterday I finally installed the shim on the left and it stops straight!!!



Here's my thoughts/question. The r/pads wear in a strange way. From center of rotor to the outside edge - the outer pad is thicker on the top then the bottom (towards center of rotor) and thicker on the front (towards the bumper) then the back. The inside pad wears the exact opposite.



Knowing there was a r/front suspension hit I think something is tweaked a bit - like the knuckle - forgot to mention the ball joints on the r/side were replaced as they have zerk fittings and stock, l/side, doesn't. I think the area that's tweaked is where the caliper is fastens to the knuckle. So I'm wondering if anyone can come up with a way to take some measurements to verify & compare with the other side? Once determined what's out of plumb I can . . . adjust/persuade it back to normal and continue to monitor pad wear to determine success.



Thoughts . . . :confused:
 
Sounds like you are right. The knuckle/rotor mount may be bent. You can get new pads and check for tolerances between rotor and pad at top and bottom of pad, a feeler gauge will work. You will probably have to replace the rotor when you replace the knuckle. Good luck, Mike
 
Rotor is true and not the issue. Uneven pad wear is the reason I think the knucle is bent - only where the caliper is secured - because it aligns and tracks fine I feel the knuckle is OK otherwise. I'd like some suggestions on how to verify and correct - I'd rather "convince" the bent areas to go back to specified positions if possible Vs. replace the knuckle. Then monitor pad wear.



Thanks
 
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